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t-top leakin water =( [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board

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t-top leakin water =( [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board Toyota MR2 Message Board > Toyota MR2 Generations > MK 2 MR2 - SW20 > MK2 Body Kits and Exterior Modifications > t-top leakin water =( PDA

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devilmk202-20-2011, 02:29 AMAnybody know where I can get window n t-top seals, its raining bad here in cali n its leakin water inside my car through the t-tops by the window door =((( Anton8002-20-2011, 03:25 AMTwos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2 (http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_30&products_id=486)

Anton eckoman_pdx02-20-2011, 04:40 AMBefore going out and buying new seals, look into the problem and make sure it's not something else. There are many less expensive fixes for t-top leaks than buying new seals. In many cases, new seals many not be needed.

Read these two threads, looking into the info they provide and try these suggestions before buying new seals.

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/mk-2-mr2-sw20/Toyota-MR2-24262-water-leak-wet-rear-floor-pan-t-top-drain-tube-help-please.html

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3s-ge-temporary-forum/Toyota-MR2-52776-easy-t-top-fix-really-really-works.html dagg9202-24-2011, 03:34 PMsilicone sealent! just spread a layer on the seals and top seals and let it dry. works like a charm eckoman_pdx02-24-2011, 05:22 PMsilicone sealent! just spread a layer on the seals and top seals and let it dry. works like a charm

Shin Estu Grease from Honda is silicon based. That's covered in the first link :D It's GREAT stuff. It works like the Vaseline trick, but it won't rot the seals over the long run since it's not petroleum based. This is what it's made for.

I talk about it in post 14 in this thread.

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/260102-Toyota-MR2-post14.html

I've seen some guys try RTV Silicon, but I'm not a fan of that. You can never open the T-Tops again. There are better, less damaging ways to fix it IMO than RTV Silicone. Zarek02-24-2011, 05:24 PMTry the coaxial cable trick eckoman_pdx02-24-2011, 05:29 PMTry the coaxial cable trick

I also linked to that before in the 3rd post in this thread. Do people not read other people's posts anymore??? I tend to see a lot of redundancy like this these days...

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3s-ge-temporary-forum/Toyota-MR2-52776-easy-t-top-fix-really-really-works.html Zarek02-24-2011, 05:41 PMtouchy much? eckoman_pdx02-24-2011, 05:48 PMtouchy much?

It was the second time in 2 posts someone posted without reading previous posts, and posted the same thing which had already posted as a result. It gets annoying... Zarek02-24-2011, 05:52 PMSorry but I'm not going to click on every single link that somone posts here. Besides I already knew what that link was about. I was telling the guy to try that one instead of using that other stuff first.. eckoman_pdx02-25-2011, 01:02 AMSorry but I'm not going to click on every single link that somone posts here. Besides I already knew what that link was about. I was telling the guy to try that one instead of using that other stuff first..

The links are pretty well known, and posting links is a common curiosity so people don't have to spend the extra time searching.

If you're to lazy to read posts and click a link, then that's your issue. This is a forum...reading is required.

Also, f you don't read the links then you often miss OTHER helpful information which is less common knowledge.

In the case of T-Top leaks and MKII's, a major problem which causes T-Top leaks is the drain tubes not being in the correct spot (VERY common on MKII's, I've seen this a lot). If the drain tubes are not draining to the correct spot, then the cable trick won't matter...as water will just continue to drain into the interior. I can think of 5+ people who's problem has been the drain tubes were not put in the right spot, so they were just draining into the interior. Coax Cable, New Seals, none of it would help. You'd still have the leak in this case. It's start to rule that out as an issue FIRST, due to the commonness of the drain tubes not being put back into the correct spot over the years.

That is covered in the first thread. Also covered besides information on the drain tubes is female eccentric guides (less than $2 each, you need four), Shin Estu grease ($14, great for ALL the seals, doors, t-tops, trunk, frunk, etc).

The 2nd link is the coax trick.

Honestly, on an MKII the first thing to check is the drain tubes. You need to check two things

a) that they are draining to the correct spot
b) that they are not plugged.

If either of these has occurred, this needs to be corrected first.

Once you know the drain tubes are ok, pick up 4 female eccentric guides ($8), Coax Cable (sold by the foot at home depot) and Shin Estu grease ($14) and that should take care of the t-top leaks. They all do slightly different things and affect different areas, so a combined approach using all 3 works great and takes care of most leaks. The total cost is less than $30. traintech8602-25-2011, 04:43 AMThe links are pretty well known, and posting links is a common curiosity so people don't have to spend the extra time searching.

If you're to lazy to read posts and click a link, then that's your issue. This is a forum...reading is required.

Also, f you don't read the links then you often miss OTHER helpful information which is less common knowledge.

In the case of T-Top leaks and MKII's, a major problem which causes T-Top leaks is the drain tubes not being in the correct spot (VERY common on MKII's, I've seen this a lot). If the drain tubes are not draining to the correct spot, then the cable trick won't matter...as water will just continue to drain into the interior. I can think of 5+ people who's problem has been the drain tubes were not put in the right spot, so they were just draining into the interior. Coax Cable, New Seals, none of it would help. You'd still have the leak in this case. It's start to rule that out as an issue FIRST, due to the commonness of the drain tubes not being put back into the correct spot over the years.

That is covered in the first thread. Also covered besides information on the drain tubes is female eccentric guides (less than $2 each, you need four), Shin Estu grease ($14, great for ALL the seals, doors, t-tops, trunk, frunk, etc).

The 2nd link is the coax trick.

Honestly, on an MKII the first thing to check is the drain tubes. You need to check two things

a) that they are draining to the correct spot
b) that they are not plugged.

If either of these has occurred, this needs to be corrected first.

Once you know the drain tubes are ok, pick up 4 female eccentric guides ($8), Coax Cable (sold by the foot at home depot) and Shin Estu grease ($14) and that should take care of the t-top leaks. They all do slightly different things and affect different areas, so a combined approach using all 3 works great and takes care of most leaks. The total cost is less than $30.

I personaly tried the guides, and while they didn't help my situation, I could tell they would do wonders for alot of them. I was recomended the grease and thats what ended up fixing it. Hope alot of the info that this guy /\ has posted helped you out. 328FTW02-25-2011, 06:50 AMI used TomsMR2's trick of using engine stop leak and oil 50/50 on the seals. I keep it behind the seat an give them a coat everytime I remember. It hasn't stopped completely yet but it's better. JiminSC02-28-2011, 11:45 PMOften if you get alot of water (more than just the drip from where the seals meet at the seams), see if the window is making good contact with the seals on all sides + top. It could be that the window needs to be adjusted-it can be adjusted in every direction (up,down,tilt in/out, etc) to form a good seal. I know this, because I just had it done- fixed the problem completely. (I had replaced the seals with new ones, because they were old-but it still leaked- that was when I really started looking for a permanent fix). traintech8603-01-2011, 12:12 AMMy dad (a Mech) mentioned using baby powder to tell where the seals and the glasses were meeting so it might help. MSAGRO03-01-2011, 02:34 PMMy dad (a Mech) mentioned using baby powder to tell where the seals and the glasses were meeting so it might help.

My trick is using a round end wooden coffee stirrer and gliding it between the seal and the glass.

I also use a flashlight to see if I can detect 'daylight' between them.

I changed from co-ax to 3/8" electrical cable. I'm now totally waterproof and cannot place a coffee stirrer between the glass and seal:

Note the 'bulge' between the glass and frame. Thats what you want:

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/MSAGRO_2007/P1030095.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/MSAGRO_2007/P1030092.jpg eckoman_pdx03-02-2011, 06:25 AMMy dad (a Mech) mentioned using baby powder to tell where the seals and the glasses were meeting so it might help.

You can use the Shin Estu grease for that too. If you put the Shin Estu grease on the seals a little heavy, close the doors, latch the T-Tops and then remove them a little later, you should see a little bit of a grease line on the windows and t-tops where the seals meets the windows and t-top. You can do the same thing with the trunk and frunk seals to check. It won't ruin anything. A little glass cleaner or quick detailer and it comes right off the windows/trunk/hood/etc. Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.

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