leaky T-Tops [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board

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trackwhore12-28-2010, 07:07 PMHas anyone ever tried to fix the leaky t-top instead of replacing the pieces? Im a student who is broke half the time and my t-tops leak like the titanic. I had an idea as to how to fix it but i just wanted to see if anyone else has tried to fix then first
:devil: blackdemon12-28-2010, 07:11 PMlong shot, the guy who I bought my 2 from, said his buddy used wd40 on the weather stripping, its rained here, and no leaks what so ever, I think what also helps is leaving it out on 3 digit heat for a few months, and they'll swell up to a point where they wont leak at all... trackwhore12-28-2010, 07:30 PMok well i dont have too much heat here in the bay but heres my idea im going to try it tonight if all goes well. i got a can of expanding foam from the local hardware store cost $4. Im going to cut a hole in the back side of the T-top molding and im going to insert the foam tube and then if all goes well the foam will expand the old molding back out and presto new molding that can seal:D Klicks12-28-2010, 07:51 PMlay coaxial cable under the rubber seals mr2918012-28-2010, 08:08 PMGood luck Heytheremr212-28-2010, 08:53 PMlay coaxial cable under the rubber seals

Yeah, I was gonna suggest that and post a link of the thread that explains it but I can't find it! >_



EDIT: here it is, http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3s-ge/Toyota-MR2-52776-easy-t-top-fix-really-really-works.html den62112-28-2010, 09:06 PMTry using grease or vasoline on the seals. Its worked for me, it hasnt leak for 6 months now. tonyjh6312-29-2010, 11:50 AMIf they're not leaking TOO badly, the eccentric rod guides fron twosrus may work... 1991MR2TURBOS12-29-2010, 05:05 PMtry this.. MSAGRO's brilliant idea!!
here is a link
http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3s-ge/Toyota-MR2-52776-easy-t-top-fix-really-really-works.html

Hope this helps! Heytheremr212-29-2010, 06:49 PMtry this.. MSAGRO's brilliant idea!!
here is a link
http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3s-ge/Toyota-MR2-52776-easy-t-top-fix-really-really-works.html

Hope this helps!

Lol i already posted the link=P ArashiShozen12-29-2010, 07:08 PMas someone above me as already stated, Vasoline works well. 1991MR2TURBOS01-01-2011, 02:22 PMLol i already posted the link=P

damn it!! u beat me to it. i still havent tried it yet.. :lol: es.biggs01-12-2011, 12:03 AMI use Sil-Glyde from Napa on my t-tops weatherstripping...works great, definitely helped a lot with the leakage!! traintech8601-12-2011, 12:10 AMIt depends on where its leaking from. I ran into this problem and bought bran new seals and the rod guides(which i highly recoment).Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace. I have read/heard about using chems to swell it. MSAGRO01-12-2011, 12:32 PMIt depends on where its leaking from. I ran into this problem and bought bran new seals and the rod guides(which i highly recoment).Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace. I have read/heard about using chems to swell it.

No, do NOT use chemicals to swell the rubber.

It is a temporary fix, you essentially destroy the micro-bubbles in the rubber seal.

By swelling the rubber, you alter the basic structure of the seal, soon they collapse and leave even a bigger gap. I would not recommend this.

Do my "Co-axial" fix, Rainy here in Portland, and I can leave the car outside for days without one drop of rain entering the cabin. dubmr201-12-2011, 02:53 PM.Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace.

why do you say you cant really replace it? they sell them...

Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2 (http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=485)

I was actually about to buy them next week, so if theres some reason not to, let me know Benckj01-12-2011, 03:04 PMUse your student skills and do some searching. Black silicone RTV works every time and costs less than a pitcher of beer at the student union. Just understand how to apply and use Glad Wrap (Cling Free) to cover while it cures.

jimb phillyzj01-12-2011, 03:22 PMNo, do NOT use chemicals to swell the rubber.

It is a temporary fix, you essentially destroy the micro-bubbles in the rubber seal.

By swelling the rubber, you alter the basic structure of the seal, soon they collapse and leave even a bigger gap. I would not recommend this.

Do my "Co-axial" fix, Rainy here in Portland, and I can leave the car outside for days without one drop of rain entering the cabin.

I will be trying your fix. Mine aren't too bad at the moment, but they have leaked on me.

Oh, and :lol: at the towel behind the passenger seat comment in that thread, i totally have one there :D MSAGRO01-12-2011, 03:48 PMI will be trying your fix. Mine aren't too bad at the moment, but they have leaked on me.

Oh, and :lol: at the towel behind the passenger seat comment in that thread, i totally have one there :D

Let us know how it turns out.

From my original idea using co-ax, I ended up using a slightly thicker black wire cable, it's about 1/8" bigger in diameter and worked great.

With T-tops on I take a wooden coffee stirrer and go between the top of the window and the rubber seal and glide it across, plus I also do a visual check of 'daylight' between them.

With this fix of course, I cannot place the wooden stick between them now.

In fact, you can even see a bulge between the rubber and glass (a truly tight fit):

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/MSAGRO_2007/P1030670.jpg

Good luck with this simple modification. traintech8601-12-2011, 04:49 PMwhy do you say you cant really replace it? they sell them...

Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2 (http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=485)

I was actually about to buy them next week, so if theres some reason not to, let me know

I didn't know they offered them for you mk2 guys. I had a MK1 so i couldn't find one. I sold the car to someone and he was able to fix it, i had to leave beater seats in it with plastic tarps to keep the water off as much as possible. THat is the piece i was talking about though so if thats where you're leaking, then that should fix it. snag the rod guides while you;re there. they take seconds to install, are cheap, and you wouldn't be going far outa your way since they sell them too.

As for the Coax fix, while thats a clever idea, it all depends on where your leak is. my 20 year old seals had no problems sealing where the window meets the t-top panel's rubber seal. It sounds cheap and easy enough though to do it anyways just in case. Benckj01-12-2011, 07:42 PMsealing where the window meets the t-top panel's If tis is where the problem is then adjust your window rather than packing te rubber with cable. If it leaks where most do along the rear corner where the top meets the glass then silicone will do the trick.

Easy enough to apply some silicone sealant and then install tops (over Cling Free) until cured. When you pull tops off you can see where contact has been made and if you need too add a little more where there is a depression. If done properly you do not have any mees to clean up and it looks like OEM.

Cheap, easy and works every time, why would you do anything else?

jimb dubmr201-13-2011, 01:42 PMhow do you adjust the window height?

Im pretty sure my passenger side door was installed a few degrees out of alignment which is part of the cause of the leaking on that side, but since the shop that installed my skirts and painted the car molded the skirts to the fender, I cant really unbolt it to re adjust it :( Benckj01-13-2011, 03:39 PMI'm sure there is a write-up in the BGB but I have found this link to be the best. While you are in there its a good time to;

>check window regulatior tabs and install washesr & locktight on each bolt.
>check you wiring loom for breaks at hindge point
>replace the crap OEM speakers (if not done so)
>adjust and lube up all moving parts.

MKI MR2 Write-ups (http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/windowreg/windowreg.html)

In as far as moving window up its as simple as adjusting the stop lugs on the front and back of window a tad. Don't even need to dig into the control arms for that.

Jimb eckoman_pdx01-13-2011, 08:13 PMTry using grease or vasoline on the seals. Its worked for me, it hasnt leak for 6 months now.


long shot, the guy who I bought my 2 from, said his buddy used wd40 on the weather stripping, its rained here, and no leaks what so ever, I think what also helps is leaving it out on 3 digit heat for a few months, and they'll swell up to a point where they wont leak at all...

Do NONE of you read stickies? This is covered in my sticky on t-top leaks at the top of the forum

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/mk-2-mr2-sw20/Toyota-MR2-24262-water-leak-wet-rear-floor-pan-t-top-drain-tube-help-please.html

You have a few VERY cheap options besides MSAGRO's trick.

First, check the drain tubes. Make sure they are A) in the right spot and B) not plugged. You'd be surprised how many MR2's end p with the drain tubes draining INTO the interior. In these cases, it's as simple as moving them back to where they should be. It's easy to check. Read the sticky I linked too, I cover all of this in there.

Next, you can try Shin-Estu grease. It's a product you can buy @ the parts counter at a Honda Dealership. Again, covered in my sticky. Long story short, it's silicon based and NOT petroleum based. It's actually MADE for seals. Honda techs use it all the time to help rejuvenate and protect seals. That's why it was created, that's what it's used for. It's the same idea as the "vaseline" trick, without the damage. Shin-Estu grease works great, and protects for a long time. A few times a year is all that's needed. It's only like $14. Again, it won't harm seals. It's made for this. Again, this in covered in my sticky thread.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/eckoman_pdx/ShinEstuSiliconeGrease.jpg

Next, get some female eccentric guides. They are $2.20 retail at the dealership, so less than $9 total. Many times, these will help stop the issues too. They snap in at an off-center angle, so you have 4 different a adjustments. Figure out what direction you need to adjust it, and make sure to install them in the correct orientation. Again, I went in depth on this in the sticky I linked to.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/eckoman_pdx/EccentricRodGuides.jpg

They also make male eccentric guides. They are also dirt cheap. I didn't get them, as I didn't need them. This will give you even more adjustment.

I'll eventually do the male guides on a set of t-tops so I can add it to the stick. In the mean time, here's a different link to a "how to" on the male guides.

MR2 T-Tops - Eccentric Rod Guide Installation (http://mr2.noegruts.com/ttops/ttops.htm)

If you have horrible leaks, and combine these tricks with MSAGRO's coax trick, and you should have NO leaks at all.

Again, let's not re-invent the wheel here. You've read MSAGRO's thread by now. Now go read the sticky. Between those two threads, you should fix most of your t-top leaks. The sticky I linked to has in depth info and pictures for how to locate your drain tubes, where they should be routed, and how to test and see if they are plugged. Read it.

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/mk-2-mr2-sw20/Toyota-MR2-24262-water-leak-wet-rear-floor-pan-t-top-drain-tube-help-please.html


No, do NOT use chemicals to swell the rubber.

It is a temporary fix, you essentially destroy the micro-bubbles in the rubber seal.

By swelling the rubber, you alter the basic structure of the seal, soon they collapse and leave even a bigger gap. I would not recommend this.

Do my "Co-axial" fix, Rainy here in Portland, and I can leave the car outside for days without one drop of rain entering the cabin.

Thanks for posting this before I got in here. Petroleum based products + rubber = rubber degradation. You'll do nothing but rot and ruin the seals. You're MUCH better off using a product designed for it, like Shin-Estu grease from Honda.


how do you adjust the window height?

Im pretty sure my passenger side door was installed a few degrees out of alignment which is part of the cause of the leaking on that side, but since the shop that installed my skirts and painted the car molded the skirts to the fender, I cant really unbolt it to re adjust it :(

Adjustment of the door glass is covered in the BGB (Volume 2) on page BO-18 - BO-19 in the 1991 BGB, BO-24 - BO-25 in the 1993 BGB.

Here's an attachment which covered adjustment of the door glass from the 1993 BGB. It's on page BO-24 - BO-25. If you want me to upload the pages from the 1991 BGB, you'll have to wait until tonight as it's on my other computer. Archidamus-R01-13-2011, 08:25 PMI used silicone grease on mine, like Ecko's Honda grease. Worked well, re-softened the seals. I also take the tops off pretty frequently, at least when it's warm. This helps them re-expand. Not such a great option in January . . .

I also found foam backing rod works pretty well as a substitute for co-ax cable. Lighter, cheaper, and bigger. Not to steal any of MSagro's thunder, of course . . . TomsMR201-13-2011, 09:31 PMive treated my seals with as many different chemicals as i can think of.. wd40, motor oil, seal swelling additive, pb blaster, vaseline.. nothing really swells them much (except stop leak additive, and thats still marginal), and definitely nothing will eat the rubber and destroy them outright. maybe if you applied it 3 times a day for weeks on end, but single applications wont.

ill stand behind using oil stop leak products.. it works very well, and the damage seems more theoretical than real. the seals are extremely durable.

theres also tons of adjustment in the door glass, you can stop or cause some major leaks by adjusting the doors. make sure thats all in order as well. Archidamus-R01-13-2011, 10:01 PMYeah . . . My driver's side door needs a little adjustment . . . Anyone down? :D MSAGRO01-13-2011, 10:28 PMI used silicone grease on mine, like Ecko's Honda grease. Worked well, re-softened the seals. I also take the tops off pretty frequently, at least when it's warm. This helps them re-expand. Not such a great option in January . . .

I also found foam backing rod works pretty well as a substitute for co-ax cable. Lighter, cheaper, and bigger. Not to steal any of MSagro's thunder, of course . . .

Nah, no thunder taken.

I actually took a little foam for the upper corner seal that the co-ax could not reach.

I Love Shin-Etzu silicone!!
I apply everywhere rubber meets rubber.
Restores dark shine and returns the suppleness to the rubber.
Well worth the $14.

I still have an unopened bottle of "Engine Stop Leak", but I am really gun-shy on applying that stuff.

Just for fun, on this rainy Portland day,I pulled into my driveway, car was dirty of course. I went to rinse her off with garden hose, I sprayed full blast across both T-tops.

Sure enough, no water entered the cabin.

The things that give a little pleasure... Archidamus-R01-13-2011, 10:41 PMThis!

Shop Frost King 20'L x 5/8"Dia. Grey Backer Rod Foam Window Weather Strip at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_127194-1410-C23H_0__?productId=3010567&Ntt=backer&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dbacker) MSAGRO01-13-2011, 11:01 PMThis!

Shop Frost King 20'L x 5/8"Dia. Grey Backer Rod Foam Window Weather Strip at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_127194-1410-C23H_0__?productId=3010567&Ntt=backer&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dbacker)

I'm gonna get some of this stuff and let you guys know how it works. It has piqued my curiosity. Benckj01-14-2011, 04:06 AMDo NONE of you read stickies? This is covered in my sticky on t-top leaks at the top of the forum Yes I've read them but in my experience very few T-top leaks are caused by blocked drain tubes. I agree you should clear, check and ensure water is drain away from both channels but the most common leak comes from the rubber edge where it meets the top by the door window. This has a depression in it and water will build up and run through this gap onto the seats. This more likley to happen if the drains are blocked so clearing them is important but so it fixing the weather strip gap. Ecentric guides rarely do enough for this as the rubber is dense and does not compress enough.

As far as the coax cable trick goes this will work but it is more important to adjust the window so it meets the rubber correctly. The rubber lubricant will also help with this but wil not fix the problem.

In short, all of the above repairs can help but know what you are looking for. If the floorboards are soaked its a disconnected drain. If your seats and lap get wet while driving then check the drains and fix the gap. If your window controls and door cup soaked adjust your window.

Jimb eckoman_pdx01-14-2011, 08:45 PMI used silicone grease on mine, like Ecko's Honda grease. Worked well, re-softened the seals. I also take the tops off pretty frequently, at least when it's warm. This helps them re-expand. Not such a great option in January . . .

I also found foam backing rod works pretty well as a substitute for co-ax cable. Lighter, cheaper, and bigger. Not to steal any of MSagro's thunder, of course . . .

Interesting idea :)


This!

Shop Frost King 20'L x 5/8"Dia. Grey Backer Rod Foam Window Weather Strip at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_127194-1410-C23H_0__?productId=3010567&Ntt=backer&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dbacker)

I'm guessing this is what you were referring to above? Thanks! I was just about to ask for a link :)


I'm gonna get some of this stuff and let you guys know how it works. It has piqued my curiosity.

Post up, and give us your thoughts :)


Yeah . . . My driver's side door needs a little adjustment . . . Anyone down? :D

If you were in Portland, I'd say head on over :D


Nah, no thunder taken.

I actually took a little foam for the upper corner seal that the co-ax could not reach.

I Love Shin-Etzu silicone!!
I apply everywhere rubber meets rubber.
Restores dark shine and returns the suppleness to the rubber.
Well worth the $14.

I still have an unopened bottle of "Engine Stop Leak", but I am really gun-shy on applying that stuff.

Just for fun, on this rainy Portland day,I pulled into my driveway, car was dirty of course. I went to rinse her off with garden hose, I sprayed full blast across both T-tops.

Sure enough, no water entered the cabin.

The things that give a little pleasure...

Yeah, that Shin-Estu grease is GOOD stuff. I use it on all my cars :D


Yes I've read them but in my experience very few T-top leaks are caused by blocked drain tubes. I agree you should clear, check and ensure water is drain away from both channels but the most common leak comes from the rubber edge where it meets the top by the door window. This has a depression in it and water will build up and run through this gap onto the seats. This more likley to happen if the drains are blocked so clearing them is important but so it fixing the weather strip gap. Ecentric guides rarely do enough for this as the rubber is dense and does not compress enough.

As far as the coax cable trick goes this will work but it is more important to adjust the window so it meets the rubber correctly. The rubber lubricant will also help with this but wil not fix the problem.

In short, all of the above repairs can help but know what you are looking for. If the floorboards are soaked its a disconnected drain. If your seats and lap get wet while driving then check the drains and fix the gap. If your window controls and door cup soaked adjust your window.

Jimb


I think it can be a matter of multiple steps. The eccentric guides, the eccentric rods, adjusting the door, the shin-estu grease and the coax cable/poly foam.

The linked thread talks about the shin-estu grease and eccentric guides (it has a lot more info than just drain tubes). Since it's a sticky, I'll probably update it at some point with more info and more tricks. mr2_dude01-14-2011, 08:56 PMI use Marine Grease and rub the weatherstrip and work for me MSAGRO01-14-2011, 10:07 PMI use Marine Grease and rub the weatherstrip and work for me

"Marine Grease" not to sound like Muffinman, but wouldn't that make a great brand name for anal lube? Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.