leaky T-Tops

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If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Page 1 of 2 12 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 20 of 34 Thread: leaky T-Tops Thread Tools Show Printable Version Display Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode 12-28-2010, 07:07 PM #1 trackwhore View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries 3VZ-FE soon to be SC Join Date Sep 2007 Location Citrus Heights, California Posts 69 Thanks  1 Thanks  0 Thanked in0 Posts Total Contributions For
trackwhore     $ 0.00 leaky T-Tops Has anyone ever tried to fix the leaky t-top instead of replacing the pieces? Im a student who is broke half the time and my t-tops leak like the titanic. I had an idea as to how to fix it but i just wanted to see if anyone else has tried to fix then first
Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 07:11 PM #2 blackdemon View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Oct 2009 Location Chula Vista Posts 137 Thanks  3 Thanks  1 Thanked in1 Post Total Contributions For
blackdemon     $ 0.00 long shot, the guy who I bought my 2 from, said his buddy used wd40 on the weather stripping, its rained here, and no leaks what so ever, I think what also helps is leaving it out on 3 digit heat for a few months, and they'll swell up to a point where they wont leak at all... 91 MR2 T-Top Turbo 5spd (In Progress.)

02 Celica GT
07 Tundra SR5 USK52 Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 07:30 PM #3 trackwhore View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries 3VZ-FE soon to be SC Join Date Sep 2007 Location Citrus Heights, California Posts 69 Thanks  1 Thanks  0 Thanked in0 Posts Total Contributions For
trackwhore     $ 0.00 ok well i dont have too much heat here in the bay but heres my idea im going to try it tonight if all goes well. i got a can of expanding foam from the local hardware store cost $4. Im going to cut a hole in the back side of the T-top molding and im going to insert the foam tube and then if all goes well the foam will expand the old molding back out and presto new molding that can seal Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 07:51 PM #4 Klicks View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Dec 2010 Location sarnia ontario canada Posts 141 Thanks  2 Thanks  2 Thanked in2 Posts Total Contributions For
Klicks     $ 0.00 lay coaxial cable under the rubber seals Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 08:08 PM #5 mr29180 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage fighter Join Date Mar 2008 Location Frisco (bay area) Posts 1,370 Thanks  7 Thanks  43 Thanked in38 Posts Total Contributions For
mr29180     $ 0.00 Good luck just wanna let you guys know Im Jaicvc Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 08:53 PM #6 Heytheremr2 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Honorary Mexican Join Date Feb 2009 Location Chillin hella tuff in, Washington Posts 1,882 Thanks  2 Thanks  66 Thanked in62 Posts Total Contributions For
Heytheremr2     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by Klicks lay coaxial cable under the rubber seals Yeah, I was gonna suggest that and post a link of the thread that explains it but I can't find it! >_



EDIT: here it is, http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...lly-works.html Reply With Quote 12-28-2010, 09:06 PM #7 den621 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Jul 2008 Posts 741 Thanks  0 Thanks  38 Thanked in38 Posts Total Contributions For
den621     $ 0.00 Try using grease or vasoline on the seals. Its worked for me, it hasnt leak for 6 months now. Reply With Quote 12-29-2010, 11:50 AM #8 tonyjh63 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Nov 2009 Location Rome, Georgia, USA Posts 374 Thanks  15 Thanks  11 Thanked in11 Posts Total Contributions For
tonyjh63     $ 20.00 If they're not leaking TOO badly, the eccentric rod guides fron twosrus may work... Reply With Quote 12-29-2010, 05:05 PM #9 1991MR2TURBOS View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries They call me Gator Join Date May 2010 Location Drayton Valley, Alberta Posts 611 Thanks  9 Thanks  6 Thanked in6 Posts Total Contributions For
1991MR2TURBOS     $ 0.00 try this.. MSAGRO's brilliant idea!!
here is a link
http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...lly-works.html

Hope this helps! Reply With Quote 12-29-2010, 06:49 PM #10 Heytheremr2 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Honorary Mexican Join Date Feb 2009 Location Chillin hella tuff in, Washington Posts 1,882 Thanks  2 Thanks  66 Thanked in62 Posts Total Contributions For
Heytheremr2     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by 1991MR2TURBOS try this.. MSAGRO's brilliant idea!!
here is a link
http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...lly-works.html

Hope this helps! Lol i already posted the link=P Reply With Quote 12-29-2010, 07:08 PM #11 ArashiShozen View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Jul 2010 Location Murfreesboro , TN Posts 772 Thanks  98 Thanks  15 Thanked in14 Posts Total Contributions For
ArashiShozen     $ 0.00 as someone above me as already stated, Vasoline works well. "Bitch, I eat people!" Reply With Quote 01-01-2011, 02:22 PM #12 1991MR2TURBOS View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries They call me Gator Join Date May 2010 Location Drayton Valley, Alberta Posts 611 Thanks  9 Thanks  6 Thanked in6 Posts Total Contributions For
1991MR2TURBOS     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by hey_guys Lol i already posted the link=P damn it!! u beat me to it. i still havent tried it yet.. Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 12:03 AM #13 es.biggs View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries 300ZX'er, MR2 owner soon! Join Date Jan 2011 Location Charlotte, NC Posts 8 Thanks  0 Thanks  0 Thanked in0 Posts Total Contributions For
es.biggs     $ 0.00 I use Sil-Glyde from Napa on my t-tops weatherstripping...works great, definitely helped a lot with the leakage!! Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 12:10 AM #14 traintech86 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage Driftin 24/7 Join Date May 2009 Location Vallejo Ca Posts 2,405 Thanks  29 Thanks  60 Thanked in56 Posts Total Contributions For
traintech86     $ 0.00 It depends on where its leaking from. I ran into this problem and bought bran new seals and the rod guides(which i highly recoment).Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace. I have read/heard about using chems to swell it. Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 12:32 PM #15 MSAGRO View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Feb 2010 Posts 1,043 Thanks  29 Thanks  49 Thanked in39 Posts Total Contributions For
MSAGRO     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by traintech86 It depends on where its leaking from. I ran into this problem and bought bran new seals and the rod guides(which i highly recoment).Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace. I have read/heard about using chems to swell it. No, do NOT use chemicals to swell the rubber.

It is a temporary fix, you essentially destroy the micro-bubbles in the rubber seal.

By swelling the rubber, you alter the basic structure of the seal, soon they collapse and leave even a bigger gap. I would not recommend this.

Do my "Co-axial" fix, Rainy here in Portland, and I can leave the car outside for days without one drop of rain entering the cabin. Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 02:53 PM #16 dubmr2 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries SAE Join Date Feb 2009 Location MI Posts 728 Thanks  0 Thanks  26 Thanked in25 Posts Total Contributions For
dubmr2     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by traintech86 .Turns out the leak was from the seal on the t-top itself, the 1 piece you can't really replace. why do you say you cant really replace it? they sell them...

Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2

I was actually about to buy them next week, so if theres some reason not to, let me know Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 03:04 PM #17 Benckj View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Jim- NZ Join Date May 2010 Location Alexandra, NZ Posts 3,908 Thanks  6 Thanks  292 Thanked in285 Posts Total Contributions For
Benckj     $ 0.00 Use your student skills and do some searching. Black silicone RTV works every time and costs less than a pitcher of beer at the student union. Just understand how to apply and use Glad Wrap (Cling Free) to cover while it cures.

jimb Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 03:22 PM #18 phillyzj View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Mar 2010 Location Harford County, MD Posts 118 Thanks  0 Thanks  2 Thanked in2 Posts Total Contributions For
phillyzj     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by MSAGRO No, do NOT use chemicals to swell the rubber.

It is a temporary fix, you essentially destroy the micro-bubbles in the rubber seal.

By swelling the rubber, you alter the basic structure of the seal, soon they collapse and leave even a bigger gap. I would not recommend this.

Do my "Co-axial" fix, Rainy here in Portland, and I can leave the car outside for days without one drop of rain entering the cabin. I will be trying your fix. Mine aren't too bad at the moment, but they have leaked on me.

Oh, and at the towel behind the passenger seat comment in that thread, i totally have one there Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 03:48 PM #19 MSAGRO View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Cage Fighter Join Date Feb 2010 Posts 1,043 Thanks  29 Thanks  49 Thanked in39 Posts Total Contributions For
MSAGRO     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by phillyzj I will be trying your fix. Mine aren't too bad at the moment, but they have leaked on me.

Oh, and at the towel behind the passenger seat comment in that thread, i totally have one there Let us know how it turns out.

From my original idea using co-ax, I ended up using a slightly thicker black wire cable, it's about 1/8" bigger in diameter and worked great.

With T-tops on I take a wooden coffee stirrer and go between the top of the window and the rubber seal and glide it across, plus I also do a visual check of 'daylight' between them.

With this fix of course, I cannot place the wooden stick between them now.

In fact, you can even see a bulge between the rubber and glass (a truly tight fit):



Good luck with this simple modification. Reply With Quote 01-12-2011, 04:49 PM #20 traintech86 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage Driftin 24/7 Join Date May 2009 Location Vallejo Ca Posts 2,405 Thanks  29 Thanks  60 Thanked in56 Posts Total Contributions For
traintech86     $ 0.00 Originally Posted by dubmr2 why do you say you cant really replace it? they sell them...

Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2

I was actually about to buy them next week, so if theres some reason not to, let me know I didn't know they offered them for you mk2 guys. I had a MK1 so i couldn't find one. I sold the car to someone and he was able to fix it, i had to leave beater seats in it with plastic tarps to keep the water off as much as possible. THat is the piece i was talking about though so if thats where you're leaking, then that should fix it. snag the rod guides while you;re there. they take seconds to install, are cheap, and you wouldn't be going far outa your way since they sell them too.

As for the Coax fix, while thats a clever idea, it all depends on where your leak is. my 20 year old seals had no problems sealing where the window meets the t-top panel's rubber seal. It sounds cheap and easy enough though to do it anyways just in case. Reply With Quote Page 1 of 2 12 Last Jump to page: « Previous Thread | Next Thread » Posting Permissions You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts   BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off

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