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89 Jspec engine idles high when cold

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89 Jspec engine idles high when cold Register Help Home Forum New Posts FAQ Calendar Community Groups Reported Items Top Posters Forum Actions Mark Forums Read Quick Links Today's Posts Contribution Actions Contribute Blogs What's New? Contribute Advanced Search Forum Toyota MR2 Generations MK 1 MR2 - AW11 89 Jspec engine idles high when cold
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Results 1 to 7 of 7 Thread: 89 Jspec engine idles high when cold Thread Tools Show Printable Version Display Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode 11-16-2005, 10:33 PM #1 omega View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries No Skills Join Date Nov 2005 Posts 7 Thanks  0 Thanks  0 Thanked in0 Posts Total Contributions For
omega     $ 0.00 89 Jspec engine idles high when cold Hello I have an 89 mr2 with 116 on the chasis and a swapped in Jspec engine. I bought it like this and since I did it always idles at 2-2.5K when cold but after about 5 minutes of driving the idle at a perfect 900. This car's engine only has 50k and runs very strong.
This high idle is annoying and not good for the car, I know the timming is correct and I dont think I should adjust the idle screw.
Maybe some sensors arent working or plugged in.

Note that since this is the jspec engine it does not have ANY EGR components, and thats a lot of stuff!

Could it have to do that the EGR (bsv) sensor has nipples that have no hoses going that becuase there is no ERG or that two of the four hoses on the throttle are plugged becuase they involve the ERG and there is none.

How do I lower my cold idle...? Reply With Quote 11-16-2005, 11:12 PM #2 canadam View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries MidshipExpress Join Date Feb 2005 Location Beautiful British Columbia Posts 11,227 Thanks  122 Thanks  173 Thanked in150 Posts Blog Entries1 Total Contributions For
canadam     $ 0.00 sorry I can't help, someone should have an answer for you though ! Parts for sale: German Radio Trim -- Dandism Glass -- '98+ Steering Wheel -- K-Sport Endlinks -- TRD HIDs -- TRD FPR -- and more!!!
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Reply With Quote 11-17-2005, 01:14 AM #3 TheAmazingDave View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage Cage Fighter Join Date Mar 2005 Location San Jose, CA Posts 1,112 Thanks  13 Thanks  7 Thanked in7 Posts Total Contributions For
TheAmazingDave     $ 0.00 Actually, and quite honestly, that is exactly what Toyota designed it to do and it is functioning perfectly. If your car didn't do that before the swap, there was something wrong with THAT motor. Reply With Quote 11-17-2005, 10:43 AM #4 WIWhite87 View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries rollable project '87 Join Date Jul 2005 Location Waukesha, WI Posts 174 Thanks  0 Thanks  0 Thanked in0 Posts Total Contributions For
WIWhite87     $ 0.00 i replied on the other board. it's normal. Mine will idle at 3-3.5K in a cold winter, 2K in summer. 800rpm as per spec after warm. Reply With Quote 01-10-2006, 10:18 PM #5 20incher View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries fallen angels Join Date Oct 2005 Location San Marcos, TX Posts 434 Thanks  0 Thanks  6 Thanked in6 Posts Total Contributions For
20incher     $ 0.00 Is this kind of like a motorcycles choke? where it raises the rpm's in order for the engine to properly heat up? My smallport does this also so im stoked that its a good sign Reply With Quote 01-11-2006, 01:39 AM #6 CpuZapper View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage RallyRacer Join Date Mar 2005 Location Portland, OR Posts 482 Thanks  7 Thanks  25 Thanked in22 Posts Total Contributions For
CpuZapper     $ 0.00 From an e-mail I wrote to MotoMan:
The old carburetors used to partially lock the throttle open and restrict the intake above the throttle butterflies to create the vacuum around the venturi necessary to cause a rich condition with slightly opened throttle. Motorcycles didn't usually hold the throttle open, but just cut off most of the intake. Some also had a dual stage vacuum unit on the distributor that would retard timing when a thermal vacuum switch sensed a cold engine. Many new fuel injected engines function in the exact same way, and I have yet to see one that doesn't do something like it.

The way new systems work:
The computer recognizes that the engine is cold, so it retards timing for easier ignition and cranking (on models that have electronic fixed timing distributors - some use the thermal switch like a carb'd motor), then it increases the injector pulsewidth (giving more fuel) and also opens an [auxiliary] air bypass valve (some are thermostatically controlled by coolant physically passing over a "waxstat" - What our MR2s have in them). In essence this produces the same result as the carb'd choke holding the throttle plate open, only with without physically opening it. Many also adjust the warm idle this way - a screw that allows air to bypass the throttle plate.



And yes, the high idle is completely normal. If it drops down to spec'd idle, everything is fine. If it doesn't drop to between 750-1K, it's likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere, and/or a toasted waxstat on your throttle body. You don't need to adjust anything. It is perfectly fine, and won't hurt anything. It may be annoying, but it really really helps cold drivability. Imagine trying to drive a 1967 Charger without a choke. They're impossible to start even with the choke on! My MK1 idles about 2.4K when its cold out, and about 2K when it's warm when I first start it. Once the engine is warm it pretty much always stays at 800-1K. The waxstat is why our engines are so great for MegaSquirt-N-Spark in a plug and play setup. You don't need to wire in an Aux Bypass Valve. The throttle body is already setup to use the coolant to control warm idle. It just heats the incoming air, unfortunately. I'm doing some testing to see what can be done to keep the intake manifold, head, and throttlebody thermally separate. Last edited by CpuZapper; 01-11-2006 at 01:45 AM. Dylan Hooker
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bob12312357     $ 0.00 Yup CPUzapper summed it up. Mine idles at about 2.5k for 5 minutes during winter and about 1700 during summer for 5 minutes. I thought it was a problem 2 until other people said it was normal. Reply With Quote « Previous Thread | Next Thread » Posting Permissions You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts   BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off

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