If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Results 1 to 5 of 5 Thread: De-cat pipe Thread Tools Show Printable Version Display Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode 11-21-2007, 07:09 PM #1 jhauschild View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage fabricator Join Date Nov 2007 Location wi, usa Posts 252 Thanks 20 Thanks 1 Thanked in1 Post Total Contributions For
jhauschild $ 0.00 De-cat pipe another question.... Are de-cats worth it.? Even more important, do they mess with the cpu?, being that there is a oxy-censor after the converter on the factory pipe.....
Have any other bolt-on performance sugestions.? Reply With Quote 11-21-2007, 08:33 PM #2 lbridges View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries No Skills Join Date Jul 2006 Location East Central FLA Posts 144 Thanks 1 Thanks 12 Thanked in12 Posts Total Contributions For
lbridges $ 0.00 Removing what is termed the pre-cats is worth it for the piece of mind. Separating the catalytic material from the engine is a ceramic matrix. If this matrix has a defect and begins to break up, under valve overlap conditions the engine can suck some of the cat material back in, score the cylinder walls - rapid engine death to follow.
If you simply knock out the pre-cats, the two preliminary O2 sensors remain intact and do not set off any "check engine" lights. There is another O2 sensor at the main catalytic converter. The Spyder is/was (depending on the presence of the pre-cats) an ULEV vehicle. That said, I believe that officially screwing around with any emission system renders the vehicle "for off road use only". The TRD header (and recent clones of same) retain the sensors, but delete the pre-cats. That's the system I am currently running and am quite happy with it.
After writing all that I have to admit the 1ZZ engine does not respond well to simple bolt-on hp gains - with a header and good intake you might get 1 or 2 hp. The easiest, most cost effective mod is to swap to a 2ZZ engine - getting another 40 hp. After that it's turbos and tuning, etc. Last edited by lbridges; 11-21-2007 at 08:34 PM. Reason: fingers don't type what my brain tells to do Reply With Quote 11-22-2007, 06:43 AM #3 jhauschild View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage fabricator Join Date Nov 2007 Location wi, usa Posts 252 Thanks 20 Thanks 1 Thanked in1 Post Total Contributions For
jhauschild $ 0.00 Thank you. But, for the short and simple, does replacing the stock exhaust manifold with a header and removing the "main cat" have ill effects on the CPU. Ending up with check engine lights and so forth. This is my first "tunner", if you will. I used to be into full size four wheel drives. Modifying 8 to 10 cylinder engines is the norm for me. A bit of a different world. So please bare with me. I'm trying to feel my way around the car and the way it reacts. For instance, I purchased this "RS turbine thingy" that is susposed to have an effect like the Tornado intake products. I thought I would give it a try and see how it effects the car. I placed it after the cone filter in the cold air kit and took it for a ride. The car died at idle three times. As if it had to work harder to draw in air and the low idle wouldn't cut it. Going to yank that out real quick. Hey, at least the thing looks neat, as a paper weight. But, it's one of the best ways to learn, sorta hands on...... Reply With Quote 11-22-2007, 11:05 AM #4 lbridges View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries No Skills Join Date Jul 2006 Location East Central FLA Posts 144 Thanks 1 Thanks 12 Thanked in12 Posts Total Contributions For
lbridges $ 0.00 Replacing the stock manifold with a header does not set a code (I run this way today and have for a couple of years now). Removing the main cat will set a check engine code. There are methods of defeating this, but I can't speak from experience to tell you if they are really successful. There are also hi-flow cats if you're worried about restrictions. IMHO, unless you are going FI (turbo or supercharger) a hi-flow cat is not a good use of $$$ (unless you have excess). Reply With Quote 11-24-2007, 04:47 PM #5 jhauschild View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries Visit Homepage fabricator Join Date Nov 2007 Location wi, usa Posts 252 Thanks 20 Thanks 1 Thanked in1 Post Total Contributions For
jhauschild $ 0.00 I think that's the way I'll go. The high flow cat, that is. I have done this before, on other vehicles. It wouldn't take much to modify an aftermarket de-cat pipe. Placing a high flow in. And yes, I want to improve the exhaust flow. And as an added bonus, I do have an aftermarket muffler installed. It was supposed to give the exhaust a throaty and louder sound. It didn't change the sound much at all. This happened on my last toy. F250 with a V10. The new exhaust was 4" from the cat back and didn't have a muffler. Wasn't very loud at all. I modified the precat pipe to include removing the factory cat and welded in a high flow cat. The sound change was incredible. I'll have to give it a whirl. Reply With Quote « Previous Thread | Next Thread » Posting Permissions You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off
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