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redmistertwo10-02-2012, 08:46 AMfirst time ever at auto cross, very slow and no skill

first autox - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RMYcdn9g6M&feature=youtu.be)

can someone tell me how i can improve or what i did wrong as far as the video shows?

gopro died after my first lap. used it to record another car. mr2boost10-02-2012, 04:09 PMThat didn't look too bad actually.

Of all the things you can bolt on to your car to make it faster, the BEST thing you can ever do is... "Improve the nut behind the wheel."

That means SEAT TIME!

A full suspension upgrade & brake upgrade is usually only good for about .2 to .5 seconds on an AX course. But, some courses I run I have improved by about 6 seconds from 1st run to last run. Which means learning the car first (seat time) & then learning the car through the course(s). Moving to slicks could net you up to 2-3 seconds, but do NOT go to slicks until you are at a point that you can't drive your car any faster. Moving to slicks too early will mask BAD habits & you will plateau & stop improving at a lower level.

I learned my MR2 fully stock, then started upgrading. My MR2 is not built for National SCCA AX's, it is just built for fun & still being built on. I have AX'ed for about 5 years now & I am still in a learning curve & may try R-comps (slicks) in another year or 2 or 3.

Only thing I can think of to tell you is that most AX's are to keep you at or below 60-70 MPH. So try to stay in 2nd gear or 3rd & learn to left foot brake & get lots of seat time. That will help you out the most. But, unless it is a really TIGHT course 1st gear should only be used at the start.

Hope this helped you out some!

Daniel :D redmistertwo10-02-2012, 04:13 PMThanks!

i would like to learn stock first and start upgrading. as far as minor upgrades would you suggest i do it? like short shifter kit and pedal covers? (mainly from tworus)

i let one of the old timer drive my car because he was teaching me, and he got some fast times. he got 51.088 and i was doing 62.xxx all the time. so i know the car is capable of doing faster and more precision maneuvers. the told me their were in 3rd all the time and i was only stayng in 2nd lol. but these guys are driving the porsche 911 gt3, 944, caymens etc..

the autox guy are great and a big help. they even let me ride along and teach me as they do turn by turn. mr2boost10-02-2012, 04:24 PMThings like a short shifter or intake filter or exhaust will help with drive-ability. Such as the SS, it will help you shift if the course dictates lots of shifting. The intake filter & exhaust will help with engine sound making it more pronounced so you will be able to tell by sound when to shift without having to look at the tach. A good set of street tires that will last a decent amount of time will help as they tend to squeal a LOT before you loose grip & that will help you define your limits & the car's limit, before you get to a point where it is TOO LATE to correct a mistake.

Just remember that a mid-engined car corners better when accelerating & braking hard while turning the wheel well cause lots of under-steer & trying to corner too fast will cause over-steer & if you let off the throttle or hit the brakes while over-steering, you WILL spin around. To control that you must lightly lift until you feel the car start to shift weight back & then lightly get on the throttle. Not natural, but is the correct way.

Also, if you loose control, don't try to keep correcting it, just let it spin around. You don't want to hit anything or wipe out a whole bunch of cones.

Other than that = SEAT TIME!

Daniel redmistertwo10-08-2012, 11:55 AMyeah i spun out once going to fast in a turn, but anyways checked out the times and im dead last lol everyone was like 47-58 and i was doing 65 seconds =(

when i spun out and started to oversteer, i had no experience as to what to do. i just sat there and watched it spin. no clue as to what i was suppose to do.

i read that i should push in the clutch to protect the gears? NomadTrash10-08-2012, 02:25 PMIt will take practice. If you want to go faster then you must get your speed up. You should have almost no time at part throttle and all the rest of the time should be full throttle or full brakes. When you do brake then brake in a striaght line. The only time you should coast is for a split second after you get off the brakes as the car starts to turn into the corner. You allow the car to settle into the corner and get right back on the gas before the apex of the corner. By the time you pass the apex you should be hammer down. You will know how much gas is too much if the rear starts to come around or if you have a ton on wheelspin. You can combat either situation by making the corner a little wider. toyotaspeed9010-08-2012, 03:54 PMthat isn't the best advice.

I use partial throttle and off throttle (to brake) all the time... I'm consistently one of the fastest MR2's I've seen on the track.

The key to being fast in an MR2 (besides good tires) is entering the right speed, using throttle to come out (how much depends on how much traction you have and how hard the corner is.... no need to come out full throttle if 1/2 throttle is already starting to lose traction).... and to be CONFIDENT in your and the cars abilities. This means driving faster when needed and also driving slower when needed.

Lastly - fast isn't fast. Smooth is fast. jerky On/Off the gas/brakes and jerky steering make the car unbalanced and as such more likely to spin or be out of control.
One of the major things you can do to improve your steering smoothness is PULL the steering wheel. If you are using your right arm to turn left and pushing the steering wheel you don't have as much control straightening the wheel out as if you were using the left hand to pull down. arber021410-08-2012, 04:41 PMIt will take practice. If you want to go faster then you must get your speed up. You should have almost no time at part throttle and all the rest of the time should be full throttle or full brakes. When you do brake then brake in a striaght line. The only time you should coast is for a split second after you get off the brakes as the car starts to turn into the corner. You allow the car to settle into the corner and get right back on the gas before the apex of the corner. By the time you pass the apex you should be hammer down. You will know how much gas is too much if the rear starts to come around or if you have a ton on wheelspin. You can combat either situation by making the corner a little wider.


that isn't the best advice.


Lastly - fast isn't fast. Smooth is fast. jerky On/Off the gas/brakes and jerky steering make the car unbalanced and as such more likely to spin or be out of control.
One of the major things you can do to improve your steering smoothness is PULL the steering wheel. If you are using your right arm to turn left and pushing the steering wheel you don't have as much control straightening the wheel out as if you were using the left hand to pull down.

Now you have some good advice. :D
Fix the seating position, be comfortable. Keep the seat upright and not to far from the steering wheel, this will help you concentrate better on the track.
Look ahead, when you enter the turn your eyes should be pointing on the upcoming one, this will help you line up for the following turns. You will end up where your eyes are pointing, so look at the correct spot. redmistertwo10-08-2012, 06:35 PMok so i should be pulling the steering wheel instead of pushing, to have more time and control.

also the seating position, i am having trouble fixing a good position, some people tell me 90 degress proper seating is best with 90 degress bent at the elbow?

its actually very uncomfortable for me to drive this way, but people me its the "most" control way? arber021410-08-2012, 06:37 PMThat is the best position, but your wheel is not high enough to have your elbows positioned at 90*. toyotaspeed9010-09-2012, 03:53 PMwhen auto-x'ing I sit a bit more straight up... so that I can reach all pedals comfortably, and with arms straight (but not reaching out far) your wrists should be able to rest on the top of the steering wheel. mr2boost10-09-2012, 04:32 PMYeah, toyotaspeed90 has some good advise there. Seating should be fairly straight up with wrists touching the steering wheel & comfortable.

Get your setting set while in the paddock area. so your head is pretty well straight up & comfortable with helmet on. Adjust seat back & forth & stretch your arms out in front of you over the steering wheel & then lower your arms until they touch the steering wheel. Your wrists should touch the wheel, mid forearm is too close & hands are too far. You want the steering wheel to touch you in about a 2 inch area from where the wrist starts to about 2 inches up the forearm.

Make sure you can go full throttle, full brake, & work the clutch WITHOUT having to make your legs reach (keeping the knees bent - legs not fully extended). Then once you are ready to run & if you don't have a harness. Move the seat back 1 notch. Put your seat belt on & get it tight, you may have to open the driver's door to get the belt to really tighen up (opening the door automatically retracts the belt - therefore tighening the belt up on you), but be sure to CLOSE the door back. Now, move the seat back up that 1 notch & you will be good & tight in the seat & that will help with car control.

Now, full on & off throttle & brake is NOT always the best way to go. You want to be at the edge of traction & that may be at a speed where partial throttle or partial brake is needed. I know that on slaloms you want just enough on-off throttle to keep your speed up & get the MR2 to transition into each turn while going in as fast as you can & coming out at the same fast speed. Now if the cones are decreasing radius cones (closer to each other as you go through the slalom) you will have to slow down for each cone (this is very difficult to do & most clubs do NOT put this element in a course - but this is why you walk the course so you can count foot steps between each cone). If the slalom has increasing radius cones then you can speed up going through the slalom, but the amount of speed you can increase will be dictated by traction.

Also, note that you want to set up your speed for the element in the course before you get to it. That may require full throttle or full braking, but you have to know when to stop doing that & some elements may only require partial throttle or brake depending on entry & exit speed of your ability & the MR2's ability.

Thus the reason for getting LOTS OF SETA TIME! The more you do the better you will get. For what it is worth... AX transitions very well to road racing as AX will teach you tricks to make better times & teaches you to learn a course very fast. Road racing though does not transition to AX very well & there will be a long learning curve just as with a beginning high performance driver. Note that the MR2 is a very capable car when in the right hands. But, making it perform at the limits is an art form that takes quite a while to get down & even longer to perfect. I know I am pretty good, but even I still have a lot to learn & learn something new each time I am on course.

Take your time, let those that have been doing it a long time & are your better drivers there ride along with you & ask for their feedback. Also, ride with them & see their techniques & ask questions about why ot why not they did something.

Maybe take a look at a few of my vids & see my hand positions & how I drive as they may help some. Only time my right hand comes off the wheel is to shift & it is right back to the wheel & my left hand never leaves the wheel unless it is a real tight corner & I have to do some hand over hand turning of the wheel.

Hope this helps some & here are the very few vids I have.

Nov 2-Day AutoCross Mid-South SCCA - Daniel - YouTube
You might see some hand movements here.

Mid-South Sept. NASA-X - Daniel - YouTube
I was doing pretty good here, but had better runs.

Mid-South Sept. NASA-X - Daniel - Atom Fun Run - YouTube
1st run in an Ariel Atom, so you can see how I transitioned in that compared to the MR2 & how I did not know it like I knew my MR2.

I just need to get a GoPro of my own so I can post up more & better vids.

Daniel :rofl: toyotaspeed9010-10-2012, 02:58 PMThe only thing to watch out for (and what you shouldn't do) that I saw in video 2 was in a harder turn your arms were at the bottom of the wheel and crossed (sometimes I do this... and sometimes I even push.... but again... SEAT TIME).

I think MR2Boost needs a better camera, though :p

I'm also jealous of your long/fast courses.... we have short, technical, loop-back through itself style courses on small lots (newer people to auto-x tend to get lost a lot).

Here's a run from our only day this year :(
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/toyotaspeed90/86%20mr2/th_GOPR0201.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/toyotaspeed90/86%20mr2/?action=view¤t=GOPR0201.mp4) mr2boost10-10-2012, 09:45 PMThe only thing to watch out for (and what you shouldn't do) that I saw in video 2 was in a harder turn your arms were at the bottom of the wheel and crossed (sometimes I do this... and sometimes I even push.... but again... SEAT TIME).

I think MR2Boost needs a better camera, though :p

I'm also jealous of your long/fast courses.... we have short, technical, loop-back through itself style courses on small lots (newer people to auto-x tend to get lost a lot).

Here's a run from our only day this year :(

Nice vid, looks like a lot of fun though!...

Disclaimer on my steering, I have a V-Max lower ratio steering pinion in my EHPS equipped 91T & a 330mm Sparco steering wheel. I can keep my hands on the same place on the wheel & make every tight turn, helping with steering/vehicle control thus allowing me to almost always pull the steering wheel instead of having to push or use hand over hand or sliding hand techniques. The reason you see my arms almost crossed was I was trying something a little different then to get my hands on the wheel & not remove them, it worked okay (I usually use sliding hands though & ALWAYS do when on a full road course or teaching a EVOC course or SOLO school. I won't cross my arms on a road course, too dangerous).

Yeah, I just need a camera period, as this was a friends camera (I don't have a camera, yet).

Yes, we actually just got an extra open area of the old air strip we run on, makes for some nice long courses instead of the 30 second runs we used to get.

Daniel :thumbup: toyotaspeed9010-11-2012, 11:40 AMNice vid, looks like a lot of fun though!...

Disclaimer on my steering, I have a V-Max lower ratio steering pinion in my EHPS equipped 91T & a 330mm Sparco steering wheel. I can keep my hands on the same place on the wheel & make every tight turn, helping with steering/vehicle control thus allowing me to almost always pull the steering wheel instead of having to push or use hand over hand or sliding hand techniques. The reason you see my arms almost crossed was I was trying something a little different then to get my hands on the wheel & not remove them, it worked okay (I usually use sliding hands though & ALWAYS do when on a full road course or teaching a EVOC course or SOLO school. I won't cross my arms on a road course, too dangerous).

Yeah, I just need a camera period, as this was a friends camera (I don't have a camera, yet).

Yes, we actually just got an extra open area of the old air strip we run on, makes for some nice long courses instead of the 30 second runs we used to get.

Daniel :thumbup:

we've been having venue issues the past few years.... the only one we get is for 1 day of the year at the top of a mountain (that parking lot during winter time is the lower lodge parking lot for the Mt. Baker ski area).

This makes it a really "interesting" setup.... the asphalt is terrible (constantly covered in snow/ice/gravel and plowed during the winter), the lot is small.. and being in a mountain atmosphere the fog can literally roll in during a 40 second run and you can't find the finish. As you can see in the vid it was clear for me but the ground was definitely wet and there were gravel sections.

Because it was so wet, although I had them, I decided not to run my treadwear 140 tires (I'm in a street tire class.... that's the max within our club) so the run is on 360 or 400 treadwear tires... don't remember.

Camera is an HD Hero2.... mr2boost10-11-2012, 05:11 PMYeah, I like the Hero2, maybe I can get 1 for Christmas.

And... we have had issue with venue locations too. About 5 years ago Millington, TN (suburb of Memphis) bought the old air strips from the Navy Base there (NAS Millington - now NSA Millington) & turned it into the Millington, TN Jet Port. We contacted them got a good rapport with them & they started letting us use closed sections of tarmac. That was a BIG bonus for us because the Memphis Motor Sports Park was closed, mainly due to mismanagement. But, just last year the old MMSP was bought & is now the Memphis International Raceway. So, we now have 2 venue locations to have AX's & HPDE's, & some road racing on the road course there, not to mention 1/4 drag racing.

But, Memphis is flat & ugly being on the Mississippi River Delta, where you live is a LOT more BEAUTIFUL & SCENIC!

Daniel redmistertwo10-12-2012, 11:02 AMdo we have a tworus rep here?

im thinking about doing a shifter bushing update from speed source for this update.

but also a short shifter kit from tworus in the next update i do

does the kit comes bushings i need at the shifter end and tranny end? i dont want to have double. mr2boost10-12-2012, 02:36 PMNo TwosRus rep here as David is heavily involved with the other MR2 board (mr2oc). But, he does have good products & some of the best customer service you can find. I have known David a long time & trust him with parts & service more than most people.

But, I have the CRW (ChicoRaceWorks) full shift upgrade kit & I like it better. But, I did get a 93+ lever from TwosRus. The CRW kit includes spherical bearings instead of solid brass bushings & I got the solid billet clutch clevis & then put a roller bearing on the clutch pedal instead of the plastic bushing that is OEM. With this combo the shifts are buttery smooth & a lot more precise. I had the TRD lever, but actually like the 93+ lever best.

This kit with some nice fresh fluid, SS clutch line, & some good fresh fluid in the tranny makes for some most excellent shifting.

Daniel :D toyotaspeed9010-12-2012, 03:34 PMYeah, I like the Hero2, maybe I can get 1 for Christmas.

And... we have had issue with venue locations too. About 5 years ago Millington, TN (suburb of Memphis) bought the old air strips from the Navy Base there (NAS Millington - now NSA Millington) & turned it into the Millington, TN Jet Port. We contacted them got a good rapport with them & they started letting us use closed sections of tarmac. That was a BIG bonus for us because the Memphis Motor Sports Park was closed, mainly due to mismanagement. But, just last year the old MMSP was bought & is now the Memphis International Raceway. So, we now have 2 venue locations to have AX's & HPDE's, & some road racing on the road course there, not to mention 1/4 drag racing.

But, Memphis is flat & ugly being on the Mississippi River Delta, where you live is a LOT more BEAUTIFUL & SCENIC!

Daniel

Yeah... we aren't so lucky.

about 5 years ago we had an old air strip in Blaine, WA (on the Canada border) and the city, against federal law, decided to put a road right through the middle of it.

After that we were lucky and got the old Port of Bellingham. Ran there for a few years (on an interesting/small lot... there's a lot of bumps and "hazards" for course design to be concerned with). This port is split by 2 sections... "homeland security" has the larger side and we cannot use.

There has been talk of "homeland security" getting both sides of this port... and when we, at the last minute, heard they weren't... there was a boat fire where 2 people passed away. The police then took over the area we used to run on for the investigation.

We had some members in our club who work at the refinery.. where they have HUGE lots. Apparently we they were working with management at the refinery and they were considering it.... and then there was a huge fire at the refinery and we got put on the back burner.

:rolleyes: redmistertwo10-12-2012, 03:38 PMNo TwosRus rep here as David is heavily involved with the other MR2 board (mr2oc). But, he does have good products & some of the best customer service you can find. I have known David a long time & trust him with parts & service more than most people.

But, I have the CRW (ChicoRaceWorks) full shift upgrade kit & I like it better. But, I did get a 93+ lever from TwosRus. The CRW kit includes spherical bearings instead of solid brass bushings & I got the solid billet clutch clevis & then put a roller bearing on the clutch pedal instead of the plastic bushing that is OEM. With this combo the shifts are buttery smooth & a lot more precise. I had the TRD lever, but actually like the 93+ lever best.

This kit with some nice fresh fluid, SS clutch line, & some good fresh fluid in the tranny makes for some most excellent shifting.

Daniel :D

how much did your combo cost you? twosrus is confusing lol, there are like 5 versions of the kit???

i want the 93 shift lever, with drop plate and bushings. but i dont know if i should just buy them separately. can you link me to your spherical bearings and clutch clevis NomadTrash10-12-2012, 04:12 PMHere in Dallas we have 6 good sites and 5 good autocross clubs. There is an autocross every weekend and many weekends there are Saturday and Sunday autocrosses. Some of our local guys run 30-40 autocrosses per year not including National Tour, Pro-Solo and Nationals. We tend to have 400-500 unique entrants just in my club every year with an average event attendance of about 100. We did lose one of our best sites this year because it was a high school football stadium parking lot and the Superintenent got spooked about liability. There was a drift event in the parking lot one weekend that he observed and saw guys crashing and doing burnouts and other stupid stuff. A week later some kid crashed a motorcycle on the lot and had to be care flighted. They decided to ban all motorsports even though I could show records back to 1967 that Equipe Rapide had had zero injuries, property damage, or insurance claims. I guess that is the world we live in now where lawyers like to sue and sites have to protect themselves. toyotaspeed9010-13-2012, 08:47 AMHere in Dallas we have 6 good sites and 5 good autocross clubs. There is an autocross every weekend and many weekends there are Saturday and Sunday autocrosses. Some of our local guys run 30-40 autocrosses per year not including National Tour, Pro-Solo and Nationals. We tend to have 400-500 unique entrants just in my club every year with an average event attendance of about 100. We did lose one of our best sites this year because it was a high school football stadium parking lot and the Superintenent got spooked about liability. There was a drift event in the parking lot one weekend that he observed and saw guys crashing and doing burnouts and other stupid stuff. A week later some kid crashed a motorcycle on the lot and had to be care flighted. They decided to ban all motorsports even though I could show records back to 1967 that Equipe Rapide had had zero injuries, property damage, or insurance claims. I guess that is the world we live in now where lawyers like to sue and sites have to protect themselves.

that's part of the problem we have.... there are quite a bit of large paved areas (airports, parking lots, 'abandoned' lots, huge weigh station lots) but the government is so concerned with what the pavement is being used for and "homeland security" and private owners are concerned with liability (and for some reason dismiss the fact that the club carries event insurance) that it's nearly impossible for us to find a lot. Our club also tends to find smaller lots - our carrier allows us to go slightly outside of the rules (for instance you have to be 75 or 100 ft from any hard surface at any point.... we have an allowance to get a bit closer due to the nature of our issues of finding lots.... and of course the course design has to be approved by insurance) - so our club has a very strict "4 wheels off" rule. If we're on a lot where we are close to soft objects (like grass) and the driver gets a total of 4 wheels off (could be all 4 in 1 run, could be 4 runs 1 wheel touched the grass) and they're done for the day. Similarly if we're on an all paved lot and squeezed in a bit tight, if the safety stewards think the driver is a bit too out of control (spins out close to hard objects) then they might be done for the day.

The worst thing that I've seen happen at an auto-x was someone hit a deer on the way UP TO the annual Mt Baker run....

it also doesn't help that parking lots are being built with islands everywhere. mr2boost10-14-2012, 11:35 AMhow much did your combo cost you? twosrus is confusing lol, there are like 5 versions of the kit???

i want the 93 shift lever, with drop plate and bushings. but i dont know if i should just buy them separately. can you link me to your spherical bearings and clutch clevis
I can't remember the cost, but it was not bad about the same as a full TwosRus kit, but I got a set of spherical bearings (much better than the brass) & the solid clevis from CRW. CRW usually has a group buy going on the shift bearings & clevis, so just look in the group buy section. The GB's are usually cheaper than buying off their web-site.

Personally I like the bearings, clevis, 93+ lever & the roller bearing that I put in the pedal to eliminate the squeaks. I have tried just about every type of short shifter there is from B&W, TRD, crap off eBay (it is CRAP), drop plates, & that Jon-O tab to go on the shift lever. The TRD was the best, but could still be notchy. B&W took a lot of adjustments to get it to work right, it was short but very notchy, crap off eBay was either so notchy it was not worth it or I could not get it adjusted to be able to shift into every gear, the drop plate has to be adjusted to get to fit right & be able to get into all the gears but not to hard to adjust around, the Jon-O tab is only good on 91-92 levers in my opinion as it will bind the cables some on TRD & 93+ levers.

My tranny in good shape with fresh fluid, with the spherical bearings, solid clevis, roller bearing in the pedal & SS clutch line with fresh clutch fluid is the BEST in overall performance I have tried. It is not as short of a throw as some of the others, but NOT notchy at all & direct & easy in the shifting. But, try what you want you might like something different.


Here in Dallas we have 6 good sites and 5 good autocross clubs. There is an autocross every weekend and many weekends there are Saturday and Sunday autocrosses. Some of our local guys run 30-40 autocrosses per year not including National Tour, Pro-Solo and Nationals.

WOW, must be nice to have all that going on. Memphis really stinks when it comes to motorsports. It is a unique place as there is a BIG car market & tuner market & we are starting to get some poeple that know how to do real tuning (street & dyno). But, these folks spend thousands of $$$ on thier cars, but will NOT race them at all. It is mainly all show & no go around here. People would rather drive around town pull over & take pics instead of coming to races & actually learning to drive their cars. And the tracks around here always seem to go belly up for lack of participation, but no advertising of events helps to make that happen & then of course people not wanting to pay $25 to $50 to AX or up to $250-$275 for a TRACK WEEKEND! Or even pay $10-$20 for a bunch of test-n-tune runs down the drag strip.

But, to be honest we are running into the same deal here in Memphis with the liability issues. People that have places we could use don't want us there. They think of the Fast&Furious movies & don't want us. The local drifting folks had ruined a few venue locations because of idiots tearing things up or wrecking around or in the venue. So bad to a point that the local drifting club has inacted rules of conduct or be thrown out. Then they have gotten with us AX groups so we can try to work together to keep venue locations open to us all. But, also, kind of the same with our local SCCA & NASA group in that we can show no use of liability insurance (& that we have insurance) since we have been here in Memphis (1960's too for SCCA), but folks just don't want to risk it & let us run at their site.

That & the economy has seem to cut down on the participants too. The local SCCA used to have 50-75 drivers at an AX, which was fantastic numbers for us, just a few yers ago too. But, as the economy has gotten worse around here, the numbers have really dropped off. I just hope things can continue to operate, for we have had as few as 7 drivers show up for an AX here lately & we do almost everything we can to spread the word without having to PAY for television coverage or commercials (just too expensive & getting local clubs to pay for that, well that just is NOT about to happen).

Heck, with the change of shift at work, I have missed more than half of the AX's this year. By the end of this season I will NOT have made enough events to win out my class in both SCCA & NASA (local) & I have NOT made a single national SCCA event this year, nor have I made a single track weekend or done NASA Time Trials. But, I have to work, I can't get around that (family has to eat & we like our home). Oh well...

Daniel redmistertwo11-20-2012, 01:43 PMhow much PSI do you guys start your tires at cold? then take it down to stock +2 psi? i think stock is 27/29? NomadTrash11-20-2012, 02:13 PMEach tire is different. I ran my 195/60/14 azenis at 38f 48r to try and get the rear to rotate around. I then monitored them if they pumped up and reduced tyem back to the starting pressure. My Hoosier slicks like 15psi and the kart likes 8. Your results will vary depending on the tire, setup, temperature, and what you are trying to get the car to do. redmistertwo11-20-2012, 03:32 PMfor us mr2, mid engine rwd, we want it to oversteer a bit? im not sure if im correct to assume this.

i would think swinging the ass out a bit would make cornering faster, but then i dont want to lose control and spin the car.

i know understeer is easier to control, but that would be slowing down more before a turn and turn and accelerate thru the apex? NomadTrash11-20-2012, 05:06 PMYou don't want the front tires to push or scrub sideways so you tune the suspension to allow the rear to come around easier. Typically, the stiffer end will have less grip and the softer end will have more grip. Drifting is the slow way around. You want it set up so that the front grabs and turns and then the rear rotates around. radarwhiz02-20-2013, 10:49 AMLook ahead, when you enter the turn your eyes should be pointing on the upcoming one, this will help you line up for the following turns. You will end up where your eyes are pointing, so look at the correct spot.

Vision is the most important and hardest habit to make, keeping your eyes up and pointed where you want to go. That allows you to make smoother inputs. It your eyes get toofar behind, your response time decreases and inputs become too sudden.

Some type of harness will help tremendously to hold you in a fixed position so your hand and feet are free to drive the car. Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.