温馨提示：本站仅提供公开网络链接索引服务，不存储、不篡改任何第三方内容，所有内容版权归原作者所有
AI智能索引来源：http://www.mr2.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-8424.html
点击访问原文链接

DIY Painting Articles Needed [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board

进入原网站 导航首页
DIY Painting Articles Needed [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board Toyota MR2 Message Board > Toyota MR2 Generations > MK 2 MR2 - SW20 > MK2 Body Kits and Exterior Modifications > DIY Painting Articles Needed PDA

View Full Version : DIY Painting Articles Needed


Weasy2k08-13-2006, 06:30 PMHey guys was just wondering if any of you have any good links/book recommendations/ e-books please post them up. I am looking into learning how to do my own body work for my MKI...it is a white car which makes things a bit easier. I can do anything mechanical but when it comes to body i know just a little bit (I painted my tacos skid plate and my MKII V6's engine bay black)...

Any help would be appreciated and maybe if it all works out we can make this a sticky.

Thanks! reflexx08-29-2006, 11:00 AMhey,

I'll try to scan this awesome car painting book I have. My wife is painting our MR2, she's pretty damn good. If you have any specific questions (prep, sanding grits, buffing compounds, degreasing, air guns, etc) I'd be happy to ask them.

One easy tip off the bat is use Comet (yes, the kitchen cleaning stuff) on the part BEFORE sand/prep to get any invisible grease residue off. Otherwise, it'll just get on the sandpaper and cause fisheyes down the line. This is very important!!!

Another thing is there is no such thing as too light of a coat... too much paint is disaster! MR2-M109-09-2006, 09:52 PMI am in the early stages of getting ready for paint. How do I easily remove the lacquer topcoat from a previous paint job. I have a DA sander with 80 grit and it doesnt feel like I am getting anywhere. Should I be using a chemical stripper (if there is one out there). By the way the part is a fiberglass front end.

Any info would be helpful.
Thanks reflexx09-11-2006, 03:30 PMuse a scotch-brite pad. Just scuff it up nicely, then go over with some 400, then 600. Don't use a chemical stripper, they suck. You don't need to remove the existing paint, just make it ready for the new paint to adhere. If you're using a build-up primer (one that has some thickness), it's even less relevant and you can just sand to 400 and then spray.

Make sure to sand between coats, per the instructions!

I found a goldmine DIY painting page. Here it is:
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqpnt.htm Weasy2k09-11-2006, 06:44 PMGreat info people thanks keep it up! And yes post up whatever you can, ill be sure to be posting lots of questions once i get started on the MKI (if i can get the time!) reflexx09-11-2006, 07:29 PMIf you're having trouble breaking through the clearcoat, get a deglosser from home depot, and just wipe it on with a rag. Should help a lot. MR2-M109-12-2006, 10:06 PMThanks for the link Reflexx.
There is some good info on there. I decided to go with the 80 grit on the DA and 80 grit on a foam hand sander for the tight spots. One thing with a DA on fiberglass is that it will definitely burn thru the gel coat and into the the glass. Fortunately I am going to replace the gel coat in the spots were it stress cracked. Anyways, I have posted some "work in process" pictures to my member garage of the fiberglass front end that I am working on for my car.

MR2-M1 reflexx09-12-2006, 10:58 PMdon't worry about the gel coat. I have painted straight on fiberglass or bondo after just a light coat of primer and gotten great results.

-D Nik09-23-2006, 11:09 PMI am in the early stages of getting ready for paint. How do I easily remove the lacquer topcoat from a previous paint job. I have a DA sander with 80 grit and it doesnt feel like I am getting anywhere. Should I be using a chemical stripper (if there is one out there). By the way the part is a fiberglass front end.

Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

Laquer hasn't been used to paint cars in decades....

to the op; autobody101.com is a good place. I took a class at my college which helped me out a lot. Nik09-23-2006, 11:13 PMuse a scotch-brite pad. Just scuff it up nicely, then go over with some 400, then 600. Don't use a chemical stripper, they suck. You don't need to remove the existing paint, just make it ready for the new paint to adhere. If you're using a build-up primer (one that has some thickness), it's even less relevant and you can just sand to 400 and then spray.

Make sure to sand between coats, per the instructions!

I found a goldmine DIY painting page. Here it is:
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqpnt.htm


If you're spraying hi-build primer you can shoot right over 80 grit scratches, though its better to have it to at least 120. In fact 400 grit would be way too fine for high-build. For top coat just wetsand straight with 320-400, if you're using a sealer, which you should be, 600 if not, no point in starting with a scotchbright pad and working your way through all those grits.

And before sanding anything!! wipe the parts off with a surface prep. Weasy2k09-24-2006, 01:54 PMthanks nik! Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.

智能索引记录