3SGTE Wars: Episode II - The Rock Strikes Back [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board
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rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 12:46 AMIt is a dark time for the
PNW. Although the ringlands
have been destroyed,
Rocklizzard has driven the
crappy stock pistons from their
hidden base and pursued them
across the garage.
Evading the dreaded sarcasm
from Foygroup, a group of freedom
fighters led by Rocklizzard91
have established a new secret
base on the remote rain world
of the PNW.
The evil lord Darth 'Group,
obsessed with finding young
gen3 swaper's, has dispatched
thousands of remote probes into
the far reaches of the country....
how sad is it that there are 3 unfinished gen3 swaps in the PNW...im almost ashamed to be here :rofl:
good news: i found my oil squirters. they went missing at the first machine shop i saw. they cleaned the block and removed them and forgot to return them! sooo glad they had them, as lithia said it could be 6-8 weeks for new ones.
anyway, tomorrow brings a big step in my build.
i have finally decided on who will be machining my motor. after 3 machinists, ive found one i like.
DG machine here in Auburn will be doing the work. local FTW!
they are very well known in the area, primarily for a local speed shop who's shop car is a 1100hp drag civic. if they use him to build their crazy motors, i think he can do my 300hp block just fine :P
i drop off the block/misc parts tomorrow and i SHOULD get it back in 3 weeks he says
the build will include:
-JE forged pistons (.020 oversized)
-micropolished crank
-ACL race bearings
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP headstuds
-freshly lapped valves
-new gasket kit from lithia
-3" downpipe probably from EMS
-Ebay IC setup
-new headgasket (undecided on thickness)
i may be missing more. but im not sure.
it will all be freshly painted before re-install.
i am also thinking about tucking the bay. it will be a mild tuck for sure. but im unsure if i want to do a full tuck just yet. i think i may let it run and prove itself first.
im unsure as to weather or not i want to hardwire the fuel pump or not too. i need a gen2 plug for the FPR or a gen3 FPR/resistor pack.
hardwiring means no failure. itll be loud...but oh well.
any adverse effects on the car being hardwired?
a couple questions:
- are stock main bolts reuseable? or not?
- are stock flywheel -> crankshaft bolts reuseable?
- are stock flywheel -> pressure plate bolts reuseable?
i think thats all for now!
any suggestions/info are welcome nocashrider06-01-2011, 01:08 AMive reused the bolts before but if your doing a fresh build spend the extra money for bolts and save yourself the piece of mind because you just never know especially since your getting more hp out of it rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 01:12 AMvery true good sir. i ask because my VW uses stretch bolts. and you need all new bolts EVERY freaking time. which is not fun. but since it is a rebuild i guess it'd be a good idea mr.asian.m206-01-2011, 01:35 AMi would go with new set of bolts. take some pics!!! rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 09:29 AMill get some pics.
for today itll all just be stuff as im dropping it off. so no cool pics just yet :( nocashrider06-01-2011, 09:36 AMgood thing you found the oil squirters too cus that would have sucked having to wait on them rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 10:03 AMyes! i was stressing out big time!
woulda been so mad waiting for such a small thing :/ rcracin06-01-2011, 10:19 AMHard wiring the fuel pump means that if you're in an accident and the car is all busted up with the key in the ON position, fuel might be gushing out everywhere.
Do it the correct way. rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 10:34 AMhow will that not be so the other way?
i could send it a signal off something that powers off then the car dies.
if i can source a gen2 plug i would like to do it the right way
however, that prooves to be quite difficult... no one wants to hack off a plug and make their harness incomplete SVX9206-01-2011, 11:02 AMMost epic thread intro ever! And shut your face cory, my car will be running soon enough. Might not be for a couple weeks but it'll happen.
Glad you found those oil squirter's, never good when stuff goes missing. rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 12:45 PMglad someone appreciated it! :rofl:
your car will beat me im sure :(
will be fun though bring it by when it runs!
yeah! was soooo glad he found them! rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 08:22 PMjust dropped her off at her new home for the next few weeks!! Foygroup06-02-2011, 12:44 PMSo, now that you have depicted me as the evil empire with weapons of sarcasm, does this mean my car is a Ty Fighter. Because given the way your car imploded, it should be called the Death Star... haha...
There, sarcasm weapons check..... complete......
Glad to see you feel up to starting this thread. You must be getting cocky enough to actually show some pictures soon. Unlike others in your alliance who feel we should just use the force to picture how well their build is going..... ahemmmm....
Secondary sarcasm weapons check..... complete.....
Good luck, I look forward to seeing it on the road.
(actual sentiment, a rare occurence, but yes, it is there)
BTW Oteck lives in BC just North of you and his has not run for years either. Must be a disturbance in the force over there. SVX9206-02-2011, 01:38 PMIt's widely known that Oteck crash landed on Endor while fighting against imperial forces. He awaits for his training to be completed and currently resides in a hollowed out tree in some swamp. arber021406-02-2011, 01:46 PMWhat kind of plugs are you talking about? I am not completely clear on the description, are you talking about the resister packs of a 1991+ turbo model? Foygroup06-02-2011, 01:56 PMYes, he had a faulty FP relay so he is looking to hardwire it on all the time. I guess he is having trouble with the 91NA FP Relay socket fitting the GEN3 FP Relay that came with the swap. When he says Plug, I think he is referring to the socket on the end of the wire.
And since Oteck is in Canada, he is really on the Ice Planet Hoth... arber021406-02-2011, 02:00 PMI still got mine from when i did the swap, wires and everything in tact. My gen 3 came with them so i just saved the old ones, and i think they were the same as the gen 3. nocashrider06-02-2011, 05:19 PMLol oteck has been to busy modifying his car to wory about it running, I could see him winning a car show with it and then have to have it towed away since it doesnt run eckoman_pdx06-02-2011, 05:42 PMI'm unsure as to weather or not i want to hardwire the fuel pump or not too. i need a gen2 plug for the FPR or a gen3 FPR/resistor pack.
hardwiring means no failure. itll be loud...but oh well.
any adverse effects on the car being hardwired?
You know what happened to my car when it was hardwired (by a shop, not me) to be on all the time, and you know all the issues it caused and problems I had. Reinstalling the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump resistor pack fixed all the issues immediately. It was an immediate difference once I reinstalled it all. I personally don't think it's worth it. With it locked in high volt mode on an OEM ECU, the car runs rich off boost and at idle, it screws with the deceleration fuel cut, and a litany of other things. It just ran like crap, idled like crap, ran rich and didn't drive right off boost or at low speeds (among other things). Re-installing the fuel pump relay and resistor pack fixed everything.
If you are running a stand alone and can tune for the fact the car's going to be in high volt mode all the time, go for if you really want to (though it really doesn't do much). If you're running an OEM ECU (which you are for now), then keep it and install it.
Is the car side socket for the FPR/Relay a Gen 2 socket or a Gen 3 socket? As for where to get a Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relay, I'm positive Baktash has some Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relays. rocklizzard9106-03-2011, 04:39 AMSo, now that you have depicted me as the evil empire with weapons of sarcasm, does this mean my car is a Ty Fighter. Because given the way your car imploded, it should be called the Death Star... haha...
There, sarcasm weapons check..... complete......
Glad to see you feel up to starting this thread. You must be getting cocky enough to actually show some pictures soon. Unlike others in your alliance who feel we should just use the force to picture how well their build is going..... ahemmmm....
Secondary sarcasm weapons check..... complete.....
Good luck, I look forward to seeing it on the road.
(actual sentiment, a rare occurence, but yes, it is there)
BTW Oteck lives in BC just North of you and his has not run for years either. Must be a disturbance in the force over there.
yeah! youve got the badass darth vader tie fighter! you have all the red gauges to complete the look ;)
and yes! i think i might name it death star!
ive been trying to name it.
i was trying to think of a really stereotypical bitchy girl name. ya know, like high maintenance :rofl:
yes! i will show pics!
hiiiiiiyah!
pics!
all my stuff loaded for delivery
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252242_10150251497903156_586653155_8653165_5964162 _n.jpg
my motors temporary home!
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253862_10150251497943156_586653155_8653166_2628732 _n.jpg
im so excited to drive the beast again! i miss it so much. its parked at the base (30 min away) and after work its not a rare occurrence to see me sitting in the lifeless shell sulking :P
gasp! perhaps there is a curse over here!! :rofl:
It's widely known that Oteck crash landed on Endor while fighting against imperial forces. He awaits for his training to be completed and currently resides in a hollowed out tree in some swamp.
yeah that hollow tree has a badass supply or original mods stockpiled in it!
grrrr!!! we must infiltrate said swap!!
What kind of plugs are you talking about? I am not completely clear on the description, are you talking about the resister packs of a 1991+ turbo model?
i will post pics for you
but essentially, i have the gen3 body harness. and gen2 resistor/relay/injector packs. so the plugs did not work.
Yes, he had a faulty FP relay so he is looking to hardwire it on all the time. I guess he is having trouble with the 91NA FP Relay socket fitting the GEN3 FP Relay that came with the swap. When he says Plug, I think he is referring to the socket on the end of the wire.
And since Oteck is in Canada, he is really on the Ice Planet Hoth...
i think it was faulty spade connector BS. bad idea man. i WILL fix it. i think that helped said death star explode.
however, it wa snot a 91NA plug/socket. it was a gen2/gen3 mix.
but i do have BOTH ends of the 91 stuff. so i may see if i can just use those since itll plug in correctly then.
I still got mine from when i did the swap, wires and everything in tact. My gen 3 came with them so i just saved the old ones, and i think they were the same as the gen 3.
so what youre saying is if they are what i need youre gonna sell me them right ;)
You know what happened to my car when it was hardwired (by a shop, not me) to be on all the time, and you know all the issues it caused and problems I had. Reinstalling the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump resistor pack fixed all the issues immediately. It was an immediate difference once I reinstalled it all. I personally don't think it's worth it. With it locked in high volt mode on an OEM ECU, the car runs rich off boost and at idle, it screws with the deceleration fuel cut, and a litany of other things. It just ran like crap, idled like crap, ran rich and didn't drive right off boost or at low speeds (among other things). Re-installing the fuel pump relay and resistor pack fixed everything.
If you are running a stand alone and can tune for the fact the car's going to be in high volt mode all the time, go for if you really want to (though it really doesn't do much). If you're running an OEM ECU (which you are for now), then keep it and install it.
Is the car side socket for the FPR/Relay a Gen 2 socket or a Gen 3 socket? As for where to get a Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relay, I'm positive Baktash has some Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relays.
correct good sir, but i thought on the phone you said on a gen3 it does not matter.
a local guy gas a gen3 and his pump is hardwired and seems to have no issues.
and as for running rich at idle with the pump at 100%
i think thats incorrect.
the reason behind a high/low speed is that there is less fuel being pushed through the injectors, vs the amount of fuel being injected at WOT at 18psi.
fuel pressure remains the same. its simply the amount used that changes.
if at idle you have 550 cc's draining a min, you will need 550cc's + the amount to keep fuel pressure where it needs to be (we'll say 50psi)
at WOT and 18PSI youre using 1100CC's per min, you need to fill 1100cc's plus the amount needed to maintain 50psi.
the job of the Fuel pressure regulator is to make sure that with variances in fuel pump speed you still get 50psi.
but this is due to my understanding with my VW. but as far as i can see logically, 50psi is 50psi no matter the speed of the pump. but at idle it will work harder to maintain the 50psi and put strain on the pump and fuel pressure reg. (because it CAN push more than needed, so the Fuel pressure reg has to bypass more fuel to keep pressure low.
regardless, i would prefer to not hardwire it if i can find plugs. if not, ill have to hardwire it with the help of a tachs ensing relay (to avoid the fuel pump from running while the motor isnt running) arber021406-03-2011, 11:54 AMYes, if they are the same parts as the ones you need i will help you out. rocklizzard9106-03-2011, 01:05 PMawesome! thanks man! SW21T06-03-2011, 02:23 PMIf jordan is one and you cory is 2 unfinished 3rd gen....who might the 3rd be? Starlet 3SGTE06-03-2011, 06:14 PMhow will that not be so the other way?
i could send it a signal off something that powers off then the car dies.
The factory setup activates the fuel pump relay via the cam sensor. When you first turn the key on it activates for approx 2 seconds then reactivates once the cam sensor detects the engine turning over. Very seldom would the engine continue running if the car is flipped therefore shutting off the fuel.
Amazing what Tercel owners can tell you. CJMR2T06-03-2011, 07:26 PMThe factory setup activates the fuel pump relay via the cam sensor. When you first turn the key on it activates for approx 2 seconds then reactivates once the cam sensor detects the engine turning over. Very seldom would the engine continue running if the car is flipped therefore shutting off the fuel.
Amazing what Tercel owners can tell you.
Close, but not quite. There is no pre-start timed prime control. The pump has a check valve that prevents drain back and the fuel pressure regulator obviously will not allow pressure relief beyound its pressure setting at atmospheric pressure (or at least if its good and not leaking). This keeps pressure on the system at all times so there is no need for a timed prime setup.
The pump is fed power via the Circuit Open Relay. The COR has two different coils that will close the contacts to supply power to the pump. One is a tap from the STA signal (which is live during cranking) and the other is the FC signal from the ECU.
You are basically correct in saying the cam sensor (although not really the proper name in this application) once the engine is turning. Basically the COR is turned on via the STA signal and as soon as the ECU recieves the pulsing NE signal from the distributor, it energizes the second coil of the COR so once the STA signal is lost (not cranking the engine any more), the COR stays on via the ECU from the FC signal.
There is a second relay and resistor pack inbetween the COR and the pump itself. This is to reduce the speed of the pump durning low load conditions. Basically its a standard 5pin relay (power IN from COR, then one OUT directly to the pump and another OUT that runs through a resistor, then taps back into the pump feed wire). The normal conditon is through the resistor then when the ECU sense a load of a pre-determined point, it energizes the relay thus changine the power routing from though the resistor to directly to the pump (feeding it full voltage). Tylero06-03-2011, 08:14 PMIve got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there. arber021406-03-2011, 08:22 PMClose, but not quite. There is no pre-start timed prime control. The pump has a check valve that prevents drain back and the fuel pressure regulator obviously will not allow pressure relief beyound its pressure setting at atmospheric pressure (or at least if its good and not leaking). This keeps pressure on the system at all times so there is no need for a timed prime setup.
The pump is fed power via the Circuit Open Relay. The COR has two different coils that will close the contacts to supply power to the pump. One is a tap from the STA signal (which is live during cranking) and the other is the FC signal from the ECU.
You are basically correct in saying the cam sensor (although not really the proper name in this application) once the engine is turning. Basically the COR is turned on via the STA signal and as soon as the ECU recieves the pulsing NE signal from the distributor, it energizes the second coil of the COR so once the STA signal is lost (not cranking the engine any more), the COR stays on via the ECU from the FC signal.
There is a second relay and resistor pack inbetween the COR and the pump itself. This is to reduce the speed of the pump durning low load conditions. Basically its a standard 5pin relay (power IN from COR, then one OUT directly to the pump and another OUT that runs through a resistor, then taps back into the pump feed wire). The normal conditon is through the resistor then when the ECU sense a load of a pre-determined point, it energizes the relay thus changine the power routing from though the resistor to directly to the pump (feeding it full voltage).
I dont like this guy^^^.:mad:
:lol: CJMR2T06-03-2011, 08:37 PMI dont like this guy^^^.:mad:
:lol:
And why would that be? Starlet 3SGTE06-04-2011, 03:39 AMIve got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there.
Unless you live in a boat or on a different country you aren't farther east. Foygroup06-04-2011, 11:06 AMHe was referring to Rocklizzard (Cory) and SVX92 (Jordan) who are both in Washington State and Oteck (Jon) who live in BC as a reference to a comment of mine about there being a disturbance in the force on the West coast since so many of their cars on off the road right now.
I have my own droid which can make repairs to my car will I am driving to keep it running. Although, I don't recall seeing them on Ty fighters, but Vader's ship was different and he could always use the force and fix it himself as well. SVX9206-04-2011, 01:05 PM"these aren't the droids you're looking for"
I knew you where a schemer bill, but droids! I can't compete with automated life!
Just wait I've got an imperial walker mod set up for my car, it'll be a beast. Foygroup06-04-2011, 04:04 PMI would so rock an imperal walker, or even better on of those high speed bikes they were running thru the forests of Endor. They were hot.
Absent the ability of getting a walker, I wouldn't mind having built in retractable jacks to raise the car off the ground to work on it. Heytheremr206-04-2011, 06:48 PMPfff....nerds..
http://images.paraorkut.com/img/pics/images/s/smiley_geek-13811.png
:p Foygroup06-04-2011, 08:18 PMHeather, who let you out of OT? We are talking about real cars out here so be nice.
So how many of you Plan on having your cars road ready by mid August? Will that work for a meet? If so, where is a good point to plan for? Heytheremr206-04-2011, 09:17 PMOut of OT? Pops, in case you forgot, post count don't go up in OT
My car is up and running as is! Even took care of my CEL! Now to hopefully pass emissions :ugh: Foygroup06-04-2011, 10:01 PMJust saying Play nice, you're not in OT.
I have never seen you out of the asylum so I was surprised to see you here.
I am glad you got it up and running and to think your on the Left Coast too. There is hope for you all over there. At least your not in Cali. Emissions there is a beast. I don't have inspections for my car anymore. It's considered historic here in MD after 20 years. Heytheremr206-04-2011, 11:10 PMLucky! :(
My car has been running all along after I restored it, 2 years ago. The last time it was out of commission was when my axle needed replacing and the longest wait on that was the shipping. My CEL didn't prevent me from driving, it just made me run rich as hell. SVX9206-05-2011, 03:37 AMI should be golden by the end of this month. Also my wife will be out of country during august visiting Ireland. It'll be the longest time we've been apart so a meet at that time works perfect, gives me something to do and keeps me out of serious trouble...
The point of meetup is gonna have to be something we vote on arber021406-05-2011, 11:53 AMAnd why would that be?
Because he is right 98% of the time. :D rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:20 AMIf jordan is one and you cory is 2 unfinished 3rd gen....who might the 3rd be?
you have an unfinished gen3!!
Ive got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there.
haha im down for calling my motor the death star! woot woot!!
i am also down to invade said mod filled swamp! that guy has every mr2 thing known to man!!
He was referring to Rocklizzard (Cory) and SVX92 (Jordan) who are both in Washington State and Oteck (Jon) who live in BC as a reference to a comment of mine about there being a disturbance in the force on the West coast since so many of their cars on off the road right now.
I have my own droid which can make repairs to my car will I am driving to keep it running. Although, I don't recall seeing them on Ty fighters, but Vader's ship was different and he could always use the force and fix it himself as well.
yeah :P its gotta be! i blame the PNW of our un-running swaps!! :P
i dont think ty fighters have droids, but this explains your luck!
or maybe yours blew up and youre just covering it very well ;)
"these aren't the droids you're looking for"
I knew you where a schemer bill, but droids! I can't compete with automated life!
Just wait I've got an imperial walker mod set up for my car, it'll be a beast.
i lawled at this!! x2 on not competing with automated life! i gotz to sleep sometimes!!
I would so rock an imperal walker, or even better on of those high speed bikes they were running thru the forests of Endor. They were hot.
Absent the ability of getting a walker, I wouldn't mind having built in retractable jacks to raise the car off the ground to work on it.
i would
you know they do make jacks for purposes that you speak of ;)
and hey_guys is only posting here out of OT cause we boutz to kick it once my death star runs!!
I should be golden by the end of this month. Also my wife will be out of country during august visiting Ireland. It'll be the longest time we've been apart so a meet at that time works perfect, gives me something to do and keeps me out of serious trouble...
The point of meetup is gonna have to be something we vote on
im hoping to be finished late june early july as well
so august should work fo sho
and jordan if you need that much help, we can chill! ill keep ya out of trouble!....maybe....:rofl:
Because he is right 98% of the time. :D
thats why i no homo
but really
his info saves me time and time again! rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:24 AMoh yeah! and i just ordered a little over 600$ worth of build up parts!
woot woot?
essential, but not fun :( that money could go to mods had my dumbass not blown up the motor!! :P
oh wells. she'll run soon! i can feel it! hurry up machinist! i want her now!
also its mah b-day!!! well it was 24min ago (june 5th) Foygroup06-06-2011, 09:52 AMHappy b-day Rock... I didn't know. Hopefully the Death Star will be back on the road soon.
I need to come up with a name for mine.... I was thinking naming it after that Nubian ship that Queen Amidala has, it was all shinny silver and quick. Now I have to find out if they ever named it.
No new mods for me for a while, the AC in the house just died and I have to replace it. Just got a third quote for $10k. Not good. nocashrider06-06-2011, 10:39 AMdoes it really get that hot there? rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 11:38 AMthanks Bill!
and you should name it after whatever the shiney one is! i do believe there is a name!!
and the death star is close! im getting so anxious!
especially now after this big order.
all thats left now is a downpipe and ARP headstuds
10k for ac!!
no thanks!
thats crazy!! SVX9206-06-2011, 12:21 PMHappy B-day cory! Glad to see you've managed to survive another day!
10k for AC, bill have you ever been told the secret to staying cold? Now, you may need to live in a commune, but I've heard from some very reliable sources clothes are the problem....;) rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:34 PMthanks man!!
starting to catch you old folks :P
finally not a teen! :rofl:
im not sure where youre going with that...are you saying you want to see bill naked?
weirdo :rofl: mr.asian.m206-06-2011, 04:12 PMhappy b-day cory. but, for real? 10k for ac???!! that's crazy. is the ac line made of gold? SVX9206-06-2011, 04:52 PMthanks man!!
starting to catch you old folks :P
finally not a teen! :rofl:
im not sure where youre going with that...are you saying you want to see bill naked?
weirdo :rofl:
I'm not that comfortable, however I'm sure he could find a like minded group of hippies or a term I'm sure that'll resound better with him, beatnicks/hipsters that would accept him. Forget AC, be free bill! rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 12:28 AMthanks mr.asian.m2!
and suuuure jordan. i know you dream of him ;)
good news!
i found a plug that will work for my fuel pump relay to make it plug in like stock!
its yellow....(off a supra) but it works.
now i just need the female end of the round 5 pin fuel injector resistor box and ill be set! CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:20 AMCory, You can talk to the MKIII Turbo supra guys about the round resistor plug. Im pretty sure its the same one. Only the Turbo MKIII Supra's though, N/A Supra's used High Impedence injectors so there is no resistor pack used.
I might have one cause I have a harness in storage for a 91 turbo supra but several of the plugs are missing, so I dont know for sure if that one is there. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 09:23 AMah,yes the one i found was NA which is why i couldnt find the 5 pin plug :(
if you had that i would happily buy it off you!
thats the one plug i need to make everything work as designed
the injector packs worked with the spade connectors... but if the FPR failed with it, im sure the injectors werent long behind it.
im much more confident if the reliability with the correct plugs CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:26 AMIf I have it, I'll just give it to you cause its not worth anything to me.... I probably wont be able to get over there till this weekend though so I wont know anything till then. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 11:33 AMThat's cool with me! No huge rush
Thanks!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-07-2011, 08:16 PMOk I will try to find the name for the car. I am sure it is so obscure no one will know what it is.
As for a $10k AC unit. It's for my house not my car. The house has one unit for 3,500 sq ft. So it's a 4 ton unit.
Still looking for competitive quotes.
So it looks like you and SVX will be done in time for mid August. I can't wait to see those turning fogs in my rear view. Haha. CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:08 PMOk I will try to find the name for the car. I am sure it is so obscure no one will know what it is.
As for a $10k AC unit. It's for my house not my car. The house has one unit for 3,500 sq ft. So it's a 4 ton unit.
Still looking for competitive quotes.
So it looks like you and SVX will be done in time for mid August. I can't wait to see those turning fogs in my rear view. Haha.
Be glad you dont live down here. A 4ton would have a hella time cooling that much sq-ft'age down here. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 11:21 PMyeah i knew it was for your house :P
10k for ac in a car better be made of gold :P
and yeah i would venture to say before mid july *knock on wood*
took the head apart again today for one more fine grit lapping, and to have it all opened up for when i get the new valveseals (chris do you think i should replace them while its out? they come in the engine overhaul gasket kit) do they replace like any other valve seal?
im sure youll love to see my car in your rearview :P
unless.....unless this was all a scam!! :eek: maybe its a monsterous build!! :rofl: CJMR2T06-07-2011, 11:29 PMCory, Its really up to you. The ones that are on it currently aren't that old are they? Didn't you change them when you redid the head just recently? rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 12:25 AMNo I did not. These seals are the same seals that came on the motor from EMS. I didn't do any seals yet because I hadn't thought about the valveseals. Perhaps I should?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Heytheremr206-08-2011, 04:27 AMMy 2 cents would be to change them anyway. For that security of knowing they're new. CJMR2T06-08-2011, 07:38 AMNo I did not. These seals are the same seals that came on the motor from EMS. I didn't do any seals yet because I hadn't thought about the valveseals. Perhaps I should?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Oh, then yeah, definitly change them. Its much easier to change them now with the head off and apart then it is to do it later with the head on. I thought when you pulled the head apart to lap the valves previously, you had changed them....
Changing them is pretty straight forward and simple, I pull the old ones off with neddle nose pliers but they do make special pliers for pulling them. Either way, you just need to be careful to not hit and scare the cam follower (lifter) bore.
Then use a 10mm socked with an extension to pop the new ones back on. they fit nicely into a 10mm socket just make sure to oil them well before hand. I usually pour oil in a cup and throw them all in the oil bath and just take one out as needed. rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 02:21 PMalrighty then! i shall change them!
maybe i should grab a cheap set of needle noses, bend them in a vice, then put heat shrink all over the metal edges so i dont scratch the lifter bores
good to know you can put them on with a 10mm!
any special weight oil i should use to oil bath them?
should i re lap them with the old ones in? or pull them out now lap, then reinstall the new seals after? CJMR2T06-08-2011, 02:50 PMThe seals play no role in lapping the valves so either way is fine.
I don't think you need or should bend needle nose. Just pull straight up off the stems. It doesn't usually required much force. When you put the new ones on, use a 6point 10mm socket and you'll notice the seal spring end fits nice and snug in it the just put it down on the stem and push until you feel it snap / pop into place.
Also any oil is fine, I use what ever is first going into the engine after the rebuild. drake2206-08-2011, 02:57 PMoh yeah! and i just ordered a little over 600$ worth of build up parts!
woot woot?
essential, but not fun :( that money could go to mods had my dumbass not blown up the motor!! :P
oh wells. she'll run soon! i can feel it! hurry up machinist! i want her now!
also its mah b-day!!! well it was 24min ago (june 5th)
Happy (belated) birthday! rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 03:00 PMah ok cool cool
and cool! thanks!
i should be getting my parts in soon :/ lithia didnt have all of them on hand so i had to wait... but soon enough!!
im unsure what oil to use when i rebuild
ill have to break it in...so i need to do some research on the best way
and thanks drake22!! rocklizzard9106-13-2011, 01:34 PMUpdate!
Just got off the phone with Aaron from lithia. Parts should arrive on Wednesday!
So machine work can continue shortly
Also, today is the one year and one day anniversary of my mr2 ownership!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-13-2011, 06:26 PMCongrats on all counts. I will have to see how long I have owned this one. rocklizzard9106-14-2011, 01:01 AMthanks!
i also just bought a 3" downpipe :)
so happy!
my late b-day present to myself rocklizzard9106-15-2011, 01:04 AMin addition to the DP i have purchased:
downpipe support from KO
and ARP head studs from KO
my parts will be here tomorrow for sure, so i will then rush them to the machine shop and see how long itll take for them to finish it all!!
next dilemma, to intercool or stock intercool
stock @ 14 daily'd and 17psi for fun?
or one of these?
more pieces/couplers (may let tweaking be easier to make it fit well)
TOYOTA 3SGTE MR2 SW20 CELICA GT4 INTERCOOLER KIT | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-3SGTE-MR2-SW20-CELICA-GT4-INTERCOOLER-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb66723abQQitemZ26075 8250411QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_5521wt_1165)
or once pice pipes (harder to tweak?)
1995 1996 1997 1998 Toyota Intercooler kits MR2 3SGTE | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-1996-1997-1998-Toyota-Intercooler-kits-MR2-3SGTE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb5cd9325QQitemZ20061 8644261QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_2870wt_1165)
not sure which kit would be better for me.
cheaper would be nicer...but ill be using this pipe setup for a while...no upgraded pipes for me rocklizzard9106-16-2011, 12:18 AMi haz parts!!
thanks Lithia!!
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/254235_10150264736788156_586653155_8785253_1027841 _n.jpg
took the bolts needed to DG machine today and talked with the guy. getting them to remove my two snapped studs in the turbo.
and he said it all MAY be done next week!
my jaw about hit the floor!
i was like uhhhh.... like..... as in a week-ish from today??
he's like yeah!
i was like freakin awesome!!
i would LIKE to get it in by june 30th
and running before the 4th of july. but we'll see. still lots to do!
in other news, my downpipe will be here the 17th, and my KO racing downpipe support and headstuds shipped out today! itll all be here soon! im freakin out man!
so happy its all coming together :)
not really waiting on parts anymore. just labor! Foygroup06-16-2011, 08:15 AMSounds great Rock. Will be fun to get back behind the wheel. rocklizzard9106-16-2011, 06:36 PMyes it will! im so excited to drive it again! rocklizzard9106-17-2011, 12:20 AMgot my downpipe today, a day early!!!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/255074_10150265592733156_586653155_8792715_3571176 _n.jpg Foygroup06-20-2011, 06:19 AMNice. But it's the wrong one. That looks like it should be on my car. Send it back. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 07:59 AMhuh??
the last shipment came in!
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260022_10150268340428156_586653155_8821993_2359852 _n.jpg
now just hurry up and wait for my block! nocashrider06-20-2011, 08:02 AMi think he wants it is what hes sayin Foygroup06-20-2011, 08:56 AMI think autocorrect on my IPhone can suck my ass. Some of the crap it puts out is rediculas. I was saying it's nice and shiny so it should be on my car. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 10:01 AMPft! I need shiny stuff so I can be cool too! :P Im excited to hear it with the new downpipe
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk arber021406-20-2011, 07:05 PMI have the inter cooler with the least amount of pipes and it can be a bitch to tweak. But it looks so clean and they are powder coated black. :D SVX9206-20-2011, 08:20 PMlooking good. we're gonna have a real similar list of bolt ons and parts it seems! CJMR2T06-20-2011, 08:25 PMPft! I need shiny stuff so I can be cool too! :P Im excited to hear it with the new downpipe
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Yeah cause "SHINY" adds 50hp.... :p Foygroup06-20-2011, 08:29 PMThat was my plan for extra HP. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 10:00 PMI have the inter cooler with the least amount of pipes and it can be a bitch to tweak. But it looks so clean and they are powder coated black. :D
ah, good to know.
i think ill look into the one with more pieces when i can then
looking good. we're gonna have a real similar list of bolt ons and parts it seems!
orly?
i haz:
exhuast & DP 3" all the way back
cam gears
EMS MBC
4" intake
motor mounts
then my bottom end build stuffs.
what do you haz?
Yeah cause "SHINY" adds 50hp.... :p
it does! you dont even know! :P
That was my plan for extra HP.
THATS why youll be faster then!!
and heres my stuff (minus the head and VC) that im painting!
theres not a thing on the motor that wont be painted!
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/264420_10150269237538156_586653155_8832158_1513266 _n.jpg Foygroup06-21-2011, 08:50 AMMan, I don't wanna see my motor looking like that for a long time to come..... rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 09:16 AMYeah :/ no bueno
Didn't get much done last night. Wire wheeled a few parts. But then had to help a friend. I'll try some spray on stripper today. If not ill have to use my aircraft paint remover. Works well but I hate using it. It's crazy stuff.
I may have some suspension for the Mr2 soon! Just springs and inserts, but I'm cool with that. It'll be free for me essentially
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-21-2011, 09:32 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores. 328FTW06-21-2011, 10:31 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores.
Your mr2 is broken cause it's not broken. My V6 is all fixed now to (well, has been for months) but I haven't driven it at all:( rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 10:32 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores.
Wanna trade? Id take a flat!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk nocashrider06-21-2011, 10:47 AMThese cars are such maintenance whores.
perfectly quoted in my sig by 3sgtepower rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 11:13 AM^^^hilarious rocklizzard9106-22-2011, 12:11 AMaircraft paint stripper means business!
it burns too!
like bad!
melted the paint right off my old parts!
they went from this:
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198474_10150151891638156_586653155_7963208_5748249 _n.jpg
to this!
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/268306_10150270323318156_586653155_8841885_696313_ n.jpg
aaaaaaaaaannnnnnndddd, i may have a secret up my sleeve i may reveal later ;)
trust me, youll be jelly :rofl: Foygroup06-23-2011, 10:08 PMGold Plating? That would make me jelly..... :p rocklizzard9106-23-2011, 10:44 PMhowd you know?!?! :P jk! rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 03:42 AMnot that anyone but bill reads this, but i got something today!!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268396_10150273713198156_586653155_8864747_5240862 _n.jpg
looks so nice!
things left:
i need to take the head to get decked on monday. itll only take 20 min so no wait time really.
i need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan because i need to get them stat.
i only have 1 tube
grab turbo from machine shop
after that i just need to paint and assemble
to make sure its all good im going to create a checklist!
heres what i have
brakes work
engine oil
trans oil
clutch works
coolant lines all connected w/ coolant filled
boost pipes connected and tightened
timing belt on and tensioned
fuel lines on
fuel pump runs
throttle cable attached
start car
set idle valve
check leaks
check timing to TEN degrees
have friend check timing too :rofl:
initiate break-in process
missing anything?
i also need to find torque values
and need to know torque values for the arp studs if they differ from OEM
and if i need to retorque after 1st stage torque, and if i need to retorque after X number of miles. Foygroup06-25-2011, 07:25 AMDamn it you forgot to check tire pressure. It's been sitting for a while, I think you should change the air in your tires too. That shits gotta be old and need changing too.
Man that block looks nice like that, you almost don't wanna put it in. Just put a large piece of glass over it and use it as a base for a dinning room table. That would be hot you know.
Good luck get it together properly...
PS. Don't forget to fix the fuel relay issue too. rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 10:23 AMDamn it you forgot to check tire pressure. It's been sitting for a while, I think you should change the air in your tires too. That shits gotta be old and need changing too.
Man that block looks nice like that, you almost don't wanna put it in. Just put a large piece of glass over it and use it as a base for a dinning room table. That would be hot you know.
Good luck get it together properly...
PS. Don't forget to fix the fuel relay issue too.
ah, good idea! i actually could nitrogen fill them at work!
but then if i cant get it at college thats not cool :/
but thanks for the idea i fure sure need to do the tire pressure
been sitting since jan :/
yes i agree!
i got the pistons and i was like ah! i dont even wanna install them! they'll get dirty!
and now this is immaculate and im like AH! cover it! preserve it! no fingerprints! keep it clean! haha
it would be a badass table though!
the fuel pump relay issue has been fixed :) got the correct plug
still need a injector plug though rcracin06-25-2011, 02:37 PMyou really need a turbo transmission. i wouldn't go launching it too much with that n/a trans Heytheremr206-25-2011, 04:46 PMHey! I read this thread too! Haha except I usually get this info quicker through Facebook :p
Things are looking up! SVX9206-25-2011, 06:59 PMGreat looking breakdown man! I was pumped when I got your text, but then I remembered my garage is empty....
I'm super jelly of your engine parts. I'm all paranoid I'm gonna pop something on my car when I get it back! rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 07:34 PMyou really need a turbo transmission. i wouldn't go launching it too much with that n/a trans
yeah i know :( no hard launches for me :(
maybe next summer i can afford a turbo trans swap
Hey! I read this thread too! Haha except I usually get this info quicker through Facebook :p
Things are looking up!
ah, true true, youre a fellow FB follower, so i didnt expect ya to post here :P
Great looking breakdown man! I was pumped when I got your text, but then I remembered my garage is empty....
I'm super jelly of your engine parts. I'm all paranoid I'm gonna pop something on my car when I get it back!
thanks!
soon enough youll have the car back im sure!
then we have to go cruise! haha
just check your timing before you breakher loose :rofl:
you better have learned a lesson at my expense! nocashrider06-26-2011, 01:30 AMi need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan
do you have actual tubes of it or did you buy the stuff in the easy cheese type squeez out bottle/tube thing? if you didnt you should it make putting it on a 1000 times easier and less messy/wastefull Heytheremr206-26-2011, 04:10 AM^trüf rocklizzard9106-26-2011, 04:34 PMi got the little tube one like you said
but only one. i need to know so i can pick more up tomorrow if ill need em
im painting like a madman!
EVERYTHING will be painted!
except maybe the Alt...
building the bottom end tomorrow and then the rest on tue! shes gettin close! arber021406-26-2011, 07:00 PMnot that anyone but bill reads this, but i got something today!!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268396_10150273713198156_586653155_8864747_5240862 _n.jpg
looks so nice!
things left:
i need to take the head to get decked on monday. itll only take 20 min so no wait time really.
i need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan because i need to get them stat.
i only have 1 tube
grab turbo from machine shop
after that i just need to paint and assemble
to make sure its all good im going to create a checklist!
heres what i have
brakes work
engine oil
trans oil
clutch works
coolant lines all connected w/ coolant filled
boost pipes connected and tightened
timing belt on and tensioned
fuel lines on
fuel pump runs
throttle cable attached
start car
set idle valve
check leaks
check timing to TEN degrees
have friend check timing too :rofl:
initiate break-in process
missing anything?
i also need to find torque values
and need to know torque values for the arp studs if they differ from OEM
and if i need to retorque after 1st stage torque, and if i need to retorque after X number of miles.
A little warning could have been fine you ass. I had to put my shades on to look at that picture.:D nocashrider06-26-2011, 07:20 PMjust1 tube is more than enough rocklizzard9106-26-2011, 11:56 PMreally? it looks like an RTV tube. says 3floz thats enough? looks tiny!! but if you say one is enough i guess it is. just looks like its gonna be close haha nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:12 AMhttp://cdn3.iofferphoto.com/img/item/199/929/778/UkCr.jpg rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:15 AM^^not what i have... i got the oem stuff
also i need to know where i can get these... i made a thread too
are they the same as the upper o-rings? (not pictured)
they feel plastic though
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0697.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0696.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0692.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0691.jpg nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:19 AMoh i didnt know you were using the oem stuff (i remember reading somewhere that permatex makes the oem stuff but who knows) as for the injector seals i found the ones for my 5sfe at carquest through one of their distributors so i would try there first rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:23 AMoooh ok. so i will prob need more oem stuff then. i guess ill buy 2 more. cant hurt to have it i guess.
hmmmm ok cool thanks. the only issue is idk what they look like normally nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:26 AMthey are just a squishy cylinder gasket but as you can tell they have been smashed down and shaped into what you have now over time, i would recommend changing those and the oring gaskets on the injectors to just so you dont have to worry about it and i think its like a few bucks per injector for all 3 gaskets rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:35 AMah, ok maybe my overhaul gasket kit DOES have them then... rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:38 AMhttp://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/images/parts/toyota/fullsize/MAF488B.jpg
same as top seals!
im good! thanks for the help! arber021406-27-2011, 05:50 PMYou can get an O-ring kit from any auto part store, they are cheap as dirt. rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 01:03 AMi thought it was plastic. that was the issue :P
and i was supposed to make lots of ground on the build today...
instead, this happened
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267822_10150276274248156_586653155_8898434_6137970 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267356_10150276274483156_586653155_8898438_1943973 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260031_10150276274888156_586653155_8898441_1668491 _n.jpg
400$ discontinued headlights... bye bye.
i know you guys may not care for it since its a VW, but im pretty bummed :( 328FTW06-28-2011, 04:31 AMHow'd that happen? rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 10:22 AMwas behind an SUV in traffic and he smashed on his brakes, i stood on my brake pedal and locked up right into him :/ 328FTW06-28-2011, 10:44 AMFollowing too close were we? I just won't even try follow close in traffic, I drive a land boat. arber021406-28-2011, 11:38 AMThat sucks man.
I bet he was writing in this forum when it happened rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 12:28 PMno it was after work and i was tired so i spaced. yes its my fault.
can still be bummed.
should have napped then gone to the machine shop later :/
no i was not on the phone arber021406-28-2011, 12:32 PMSometimes things like that have to happen in order to learn. Dont be too bummed, that is why it is called accident, it happens. I am sure you will be more careful next time.
Just get some cheap lights now since you are almost done with the mr2.
Be safe bud. rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 12:48 PMyeah i know what ya mean :(
yeah i cant afford those lights, even if they did sell them anymore :( theyve been discontinued. grrrr
but yeah im still finishing the mr2 this weekend so ill drive that til i grab all the parts for the vw Heytheremr206-28-2011, 01:31 PMAwe sad day!
At least it's all cosmetic damage yeah?
Ps that's a huge fcking truck! rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 02:15 PMyeah :( and yes all cosmetic. running out for mr2 and vw parts now.
the truck isnt that big just a 2500 dodge ram im pretty sure.
its a gasser eckoman_pdx06-29-2011, 09:34 PMi thought it was plastic. that was the issue :P
and i was supposed to make lots of ground on the build today...
instead, this happened
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267822_10150276274248156_586653155_8898434_6137970 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267356_10150276274483156_586653155_8898438_1943973 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260031_10150276274888156_586653155_8898441_1668491 _n.jpg
400$ discontinued headlights... bye bye.
i know you guys may not care for it since its a VW, but im pretty bummed :(
I'm sorry to see that man. I'm glad you are okay!!! Foygroup06-29-2011, 09:53 PMI am glad that was not a pic of your MR2. I was worried you got it on the road for a test drive and forgot to fill the brake fluid or something.
Knocked the Toyota right out of it, turned it into a VW.
Glad you're all good. rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 04:27 AMyeah :( either way its not cool
the way the mr2 is shaped it probably would have only damaged the hood :P
the vw ill get fixed, but im working more on the mr2 right now. its coming along well despite a few setbacks rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 04:28 AMsoooo i would like to take this time for you to all verify my timing.
as you see it is how it will go in the car unless someone can point out something wrong
heres how its set up
sneak peek at the motor, as well as my belt routing
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0746.jpg
crank set to 10*
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0745.jpg
dizzy set to the mark on the cam
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0744.jpg
cams set to perfect zero via the adjustable cam gears
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0741.jpg CJMR2T06-30-2011, 08:23 AMCory, that's wrong..... your off 10*....
With the cams as the are in the last photo (notchs lining up with dots in caps), the crank is supposed to be at 0*.
EVERYTHING is to be SET TO ZERO when the belt is installed... 328FTW06-30-2011, 08:48 AMCory, that's wrong..... your off 10*....
With the cams as the are in the last photo (notchs lining up with dots in caps), the crank is supposed to be at 0*.
EVERYTHING is to be SET TO ZERO when the belt is installed...
What he said. Both your cams are 10 degrees advanced at the moment which when you set your ignition timing will mean your timing is out of phase with the cams to what it would normally be cause it's cam driven.
Pulley to zero, zero cams. Then spin it over by hand a couple times to see if it still lines up, if so good to go. Throw the covers on and once you have the motor started in the car THEN use the timing marks to get the timing to 10 degrees BUT if you have a good gun with advance dial then set that to 10 and use ZERO on the crank, don't add them or you get 20 degrees which I think is what you did wrong last time iirc? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 01:00 PMgah. ok. i thought since the dizzy has its notch and i set it there then the crank is set to 10*
now i have to pull it all apart again. DOH!
thanks for saving me.
dont need another 20* timing incident
so:
crank = 0
cams = marks
dizzy = marks
then i still need to use the timing gun to set it to 10* or does that set it? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 02:19 PMrevised timing:
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0753.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0752.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0751.jpg
are these ones good? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 02:20 PMnote: belt marks are off because i already rotated it around a few times to make sure it was good. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:33 PM^^^ Cory, now you got it.....
Also if you haven't already figured it out, I was totally off in the thread about the studs and oil pump... was trying to answer two different questions to two different people (you and a supra guy) at the same time... you CAN'T run the oil pump with a drill on the 3s but you can on the 7M used in the MKIII supra's..... however, you can do basically what I was getting at to build pressure by having the trans attached and starter installed and feeding power to the starter to crank the engine before installing it in the car. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:48 PMAlso, about the setting to 10* with the timing gun, you do that via the distributor once the engine is running.
Timing gun hooked to the #1 plug wire and adjust the distributor until the flashing of the gun shows the timing mark on the crank lining up with 10*......
Oh, you have to have the computer in learn / diagnostic mode (TE1 and E1 jumped in the diagnostic port.... this is important too.
Also, the notch on the distributor is kind of redundant cause the drive key is offset so the distributor will only go in one way. It's impossible to put it in wrong. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:58 PMSome food for thought if using and advance type timing gun...
Always think ZERO and TEN.... If one is on zero the they other has to be on 10 if your trying to set to 10. By this I mean if the gun is set to ZERO, the the crank needs to line up with 10 and if the gun is set to 10, then the crank needs to line up with ZERO. rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 10:02 PMoh ok. so do i need to prime the oil pump somehow? or just crank it til pressure is made?
alright ill make sure to bring my jumper and a timing light then!
and yes :mad: i have learned the zero and ten rule.
i will set the gun to 10* and set the motor to zero, or set the gun to zero and set the motor to 10. i may to gun 0* and crank 10*. cant mess up zero on the gun.
thanks though!
got a lot done today! motor is all built.
took it to the shop where i pulled the car out of the deployed guys parking lot and into the shop. and began work!
removed the old trans, subframe, suspension, replaced fuel filter, put on new painted heatshields, and swapped stuff off the old trans to the new one. tomorrow at 10 the shop opens! ill be there at 945 waiting. it MAY run tomorrow! if not itll all be in and set up and start the next day!
so excited :) rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 11:55 PMheres a few pics for you guys ;)
let me know what ya think!
cheesy pic that mom took to show its actually mine ;)
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/264468_10150292321093156_586653155_8922540_7614664 _n.jpg
from the front
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267288_10150292321173156_586653155_8922543_2603728 _n.jpg
from the side
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/264478_10150292321198156_586653155_8922544_1258547 _n.jpg rcracin07-01-2011, 12:18 AMgood luck not scratching the transmission on the way in. :D rocklizzard9107-01-2011, 01:16 AMi didnt last time! its easy! Xer0 44907-01-2011, 03:29 AMThat was my plan for extra HP.
If shiny added HP, your' car would be the deathstar... rocklizzard9107-01-2011, 04:26 AMmanual s54 gearbox uses 2.7qts of oil correct? Foygroup07-01-2011, 10:10 PMVery nice Cory. So when is it going back in the car? When do we get to see the drive by videos? rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 03:13 AMits back in the car now! started right up this evening!
i forgot the timing light at home so it ws quick start then killed it.
but badass none the less!
bad news:
new downpipe doesnt mate up the my exhaust, and im lazy, so im just running an open downpipe :rofl:
should be crazy!
tomorrow im running back out there to gap the plugs (what do they get gapped to? i forgot) and set the timing, and fill it with water and drive her home!
im also going to set the cluster to zero miles and laser etch the back of the cluster at work with the current mileage. a new motor gets a odometer! haha CJMR2T07-02-2011, 12:52 PM^^^ Cory, what plugs are you using??? Unless they are copper's, don't gap them. All of your platinum and iridium and such come pre-gapped and its not recommended to try to gap them cause of risk of scratching off the coating.
If you are running copper's then .028-.030 is good. rcracin07-02-2011, 01:06 PMI've been gapping at .028 Works well for me. Copper plugs are super cheap and unlike what everyone else says, they do last for a decent amount of mileage. rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 01:27 PMim using NGK BKR7E-4644
im not sure if its copper or not... CJMR2T07-02-2011, 01:43 PMYep, those are copper's.... gap them to .028 and you'll be fine... like rcracin said, copper's work good. I actually won't run anything else other then copper's in a FI (Forced Induction) engine. rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 02:44 PMYep, those are copper's.... gap them to .028 and you'll be fine... like rcracin said, copper's work good. I actually won't run anything else other then copper's in a FI (Forced Induction) engine.
That's what Ive heard, which is why I picked these :) heading out now to go gap, time and add water!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk SVX9207-02-2011, 06:46 PMgot my fingers crossed for you buddy, hope that engine is running at 110%! Starlet 3SGTE07-02-2011, 08:59 PMHeat range 7 is ok but I like'm colder! rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 11:17 PMDrove it home! It's a monster!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk nocashrider07-03-2011, 03:13 AMniceeee CJMR2T07-03-2011, 08:45 AMDrove it home! It's a monster!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
GOOD TO HERE!!!!!!!!!!! You must feel really good now. rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 05:44 PMi do feel good! super paranoid about timing though
my timing light set to 10* will go to zero on the timing belt.
but if i set the gun to zero, it pulls the mark further back behind the zero, not toward 10*... i feel like something is wrong there...
also have a code 31
it runs well though still.
better than before, except low end power seems a little more lacking.
and sometimes at idle itll miss a couple times at random rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 06:18 PMas per
Check the voltage at the PIM terminal at the ECU or the center wire on the MAP sensor (blue with black tracer) with the sensor hooked up.. With the Key on but engine off, the voltage should be somewhere right around 2.5volts +/- .2volts. Its best to check it at both spots, the sensor and the PIM terminal at the ECU to make sure they are pretty much the same to eliminate a wire problem.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again. With the engine idling, the voltage should be down around 1.5v give or take a few tenths of a volt.
If the voltage is not where it should be, unplug the sensor and check the voltage between the outer 2 teminals with the Key on and engine off. It should be between around 5v +/-.5v
If you have the 5v but the other reading are off from described above, then the sensor is bad.
i got 2.29 on PIM at the ecu and at the sensor with key on engine off
i got .98-1.02 for idling at 20-22"
and 4.97 volts between the 2 outer wires with the key on and engine off
any ideas? Foygroup07-03-2011, 06:50 PMYou keep saying add water and take it home. Tell me you added coolant too.
Did you also check that all your grounds are connected and in good condition? I just had that problem, but it's all good now.
Glad to see it's on the road... rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 08:20 PMi need to flush it before i add coolant
its just distilled right now.
i will change before summer though
no worries
and i will check grounds. maybe thats all it is CJMR2T07-03-2011, 10:40 PMi do feel good! super paranoid about timing though
my timing light set to 10* will go to zero on the timing belt.
but if i set the gun to zero, it pulls the mark further back behind the zero, not toward 10*... i feel like something is wrong there...
also have a code 31
it runs well though still.
better than before, except low end power seems a little more lacking.
and sometimes at idle itll miss a couple times at random
Was the engine at full operating temp when you set / checked it? This is important cause the ECU runs more advance during warmup then slowly tapers it back as temp increases....
I set the dial to 0* and adjust timing to 10*. Again, full operating temp is critical (drive it around for about 5-10min's is best so that its definitly up to temp and the entire cooling system is stabilized). Also, dont forget to jump TE1 and E1... This is very important too.
As for the 31, clear the codes and see if it comes back.... Your voltage's in the other post seem normal but have to ask though, where did you check the voltages, at the sensor? Check them at the ECU and see if they are the same. A problem with the PIM signal wire would cause the voltages to check fine at the Sensor, but not fine at the ECU if its an Open Circuit or Short to Ground fault in the PIM wire. CJMR2T07-03-2011, 10:48 PMi need to flush it before i add coolant
its just distilled right now.
i will change before summer though
no worries
and i will check grounds. maybe thats all it is
Coolant isn't really Coolant... In all actuality, it hinders cooling ability as it sheds heat slower then water. For "Summer", you want it there only for the anti-corrosion properties and lubricant for the waterpump and you want to run the least amount possible. Winter time is when its really important, especially if you live in a freezing climate like you do (currently ;) ;) ) since its real correct name and purpose is Anti-Freeze.
Definitly check all your grounds (especially the ECU ground group that attaches to the underside of the Intake Manifold), however, I dont think this is going to be your problem. 328FTW07-03-2011, 11:54 PMYou can buy anti corrosive on it's own and it's cheaper than antifreeze plus it's takes less to mix into the system. Normally 1 litre for $10 will do you fine, it's in the antifreeze isle normally just in smaller bottles. rocklizzard9107-04-2011, 01:58 AMi checked voltages at the sensor and at the ecu IIRC.
it MAY be a grounding issue. im not sure if i scratched paint off the manifold for the main engine harness ground. and theres paint between the manifold and the head i think. so i may not be grounding well. the miss is kind of scaring me. runs well. but itll have an occasional miss. sometimes more in a row than others. ill get video tomorrow.
as for timing, it was set cold IIRC. ill re check when warm tomorrow.
and yes i jumpered the diagnostics box
and i call anti-freeze coolant all the time. just what we called it at jiffy lube when i worked there as a young lad. i did know water sheds heat faster, which is why in the summer im ok with just water. but that anti-corrosive stuff sounds like a good idea rocklizzard9107-06-2011, 01:05 AMcodes cleared
went for a drive and they havent returned so far!
and i forgot to listen for the miss at idle. theres still an occasional miss while in vacuum just cruising, but it seems to be less often.
new cap and plugs
orilley got me the wrong rotor, but the old rotor was only a couple hundred miles old anyway.
plug wires SHOULD be good. they are only a couple hundred miles old too.
any other things to check?
i re grounded all my grounds. sanded paint on all of them.
i have the one from the chassis to the trans, and a ground from the chassis to the intake manifold (where the ecu ground are) so it should be good right? 328FTW07-06-2011, 01:29 AMYour injectors and stuff are good right? Electrical cleaner on the dizzy connector might help if there is a little corrosion. Did you check the injector grounds? Bunch of brown wires I believe with a eye on them, had issues there before. rocklizzard9107-06-2011, 01:52 AMi can check the dizzy connector. and the injector grounds are on the intake manifold right?
i think the injectors are good. it runs good 98% of the time. just has an occasional stumble and a random miss at idle sometimes. but ill double check tomorrow. i may just be all paranoid rocklizzard9107-11-2011, 01:21 AMim getting mad!
i had boost creep issues with my open downpipe (running stock WG so it SHOULD be 8-10 psi correct?) it was staying around 8psi til i got higher in the rpm, and it would spike. sometimes to 17. never over though. not once did i hit fuel cut.
i just put on the midpipe and MADE that guy fit :P now its much quieter and i figured boost would stop creeping.
well it still creeps! 8psi til it gets higher in the RPM band and it spikes to 12-17
i have the port off the compressor to the wastegate and the other side is plugged. tomorrow ill try a new plug. and maybe try the boost pressure signal off the hotpipe. if not i have to try my ct26 wastegate.
grrrrr
anything else at all it could be?
when i manually check the WG with a bike pump it will open the gate all the way. verified by removing the downpipe. pumping open the wastegate. and marking its spot on the actuator arm and then installing the downpipe and making sure it opens enough... it does.... what gives?!
idk what else it could be! CJMR2T07-11-2011, 03:45 PMCory, some creep is normal once a DP is installed vs. the stock cat and pipe. When OEM's design a turbo system, they often rely partly on exhaust system pressure post turbine to somewhat control boost. Remember, a turbines speed is dependant on the velocity of the gases as the cross it. If you change the pressure on either side of the turbine, you change the ultimate speed it can reach cause velocity is a product of pressure and pressure differential in a flowing fluid (yes, air or exhaust in this case are fluids).
By changing the exhaust and DP, you effectively increase the pressure differential across the turbine thus the velocity is higher (simple physics) and therefore the turbine spins faster. The wastegate(s) can only flow (divert) so much exhaust before they reach their flow limit. In most causes, the internal wastegate is purposely sized too small to allow faster boost rise (spool) which brings us back to relying partly on exhaust system pressure to help control peak boost...
If OEM's were to reverse this (meaning free'r flowing exhaust and larger wastegate), it would go against the idea of how OEM's feel a turbo charged car should run. Their idea is for a stronger low and mid range in most cases which means faster spool instead of more top end power. Also, they design for power delivery to be smooth as possible so they try to design less lag so you don't get that sudden surge that tends to occur with a laggy setup. rocklizzard9107-11-2011, 04:29 PMYes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk CJMR2T07-11-2011, 06:38 PMYes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Moving the signal location will only worsen the situation if anything. It definitely won't make it better.
Yes, creep to 17 does seam a bit high, but your also only running the DP and B-pipe. With that and the rest of the exhaust installed, I've seen creep to about 13 or so, so lost the rear of the exhaust leaving only the DP and B-pipe and its possible to get another couple psi.
The next thing is to question if the gauge is accurate too. It's quite possible that your gauge might be off by 1or2 psi too.
Where are you taking the gauge signal from by the way? rocklizzard9107-12-2011, 02:24 AMhow will it worsen it? i was thinking maybe the compressor port is clogged?
i currently am running the compressor port straight to the WG and the second port (supposed to go to the tvsv) is capped
i wanted to try moving the signal to the hotpipe. i know that one flows well
im currently running a full exhaust now. not much seemed to change other than it spikes to 17 less. now its 12-16ish
i have the ems powered gauge. it show 20" at idle 25" on decel and its properly calibrated so the car off = zero
i guess i could double check with a manual gauge though.
boost gauge signal is off of the fuel pressure reg vac port with a t-fitting CJMR2T07-12-2011, 01:38 PMCory, the further the signal source is from the pressure source, the more latency there is. The greater the latency, the more time the turbo goes uncontrolled. After rethinking the whole thing, what I said about the location making a no difference or possible making it worse doesn't really apply to your problem cause your problem is "creep", not "spike". The location and latency think has to do with spike so I really shouldn't have posted that.
In your case, the change might help a little but only cause of the configuration. Here's why, there are 2 forms of pressure, static pressure and velocity pressure.... the compressor port is at a "right angle" to the flow velocity thus its reading "static pressure". The port on the hot pipe is almost parallel with the flow velocity, thus it would be seeing "velocity pressure". Velocity pressure is always higher then static pressure in a flowing body. Since the hot pipe port is seeing velocity pressure, the wastegate actuator would also be seeing velocity pressure (I.e., seeing a high pressure and therefore opening a bit more). So in you case of having a creep issue, it in theory could help. This again is in "theory". It might still not make any noticeable difference. The reason I say this is because the difference between static and velocity pressures are going to be relatively small so the change in actuator movement is going to be small too, thus it might not make enough difference in WG opening to change turbine speed that much. rocklizzard9107-13-2011, 12:01 AMah ok. so it looks like i should try it! i was going to today at work.... but i forgot my zipties for securing lines. so i chose not to. i did a random compression test today and got 145-150 on all cylinders
looking at other people on here it seems low...
but im only at 500 miles maybe itll break in more?
or is 150ish normal for .020 over bored gen3's?
i get my intercooler tomorrow! so i will try the new pressure signal tomorrow and if it still doesnt work im gonna swap in the ct26 wastegate i bought last winter CJMR2T07-13-2011, 09:26 AMYeah, that does seem a tad bit low but there are numbers of variables that can effect it. You really should be more concerned with even-ness between cylinders more the actual numbers unless the numbers are very low and you have problems that would cause you to suspect truly low compression. Foygroup07-13-2011, 09:33 AMGreat. I got that right when I spoke with Cory last night. A little low, but all close to even is more important.
Cory did you remember to keep the car at full throttle while you turned it over? 328FTW07-13-2011, 09:53 AMSpoon some oil in next time you compression test, if it shoots up to like 200 it's probably the rings. Also you should comp test motor hot, throttle open preferably with all the plugs out. rocklizzard9107-13-2011, 03:09 PMAlright cool. They were all VERY close.
I did one at a time so only one plug was out per test. floored it and cranked a couple times.
I doing think it has low comp it feels healthy and doesn't blow oil. Should i have removed there plus all at once?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk CJMR2T07-13-2011, 06:14 PMAlright cool. They were all VERY close.
I did one at a time so only one plug was out per test. floored it and cranked a couple times.
I doing think it has low comp it feels healthy and doesn't blow oil. Should i have removed there plus all at once?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Yes.......
Engine at operating temp.
All plugs removed (kind of debateable).
Throttle heald wideopen.
The plugs being removed allows the cranking speed increase a bit. This part becomes more important as the number of cylinders increase (I.e., a V8 is much more effected then a 4cyl is). Also as static compression ratio increases, this becomes more important too (I.e., 13:1CR is more effected then say a 8.5:1CR).
Back to when I said there are a ton of variables, Cranking speed is one of them. A weak battery, dragging starter, etc.... will reduce cranking speed and thus reduce the compression reading. Because of all the variable's, peak numbers shouldn't be looked at, but rather consistancy across all cylinders. Like I said before, unless you suspect low compression cause of a particular problem that your experiencing, dont worry much about the number, worry about differences from cylinder to cylinder. rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 12:32 AMah ok. it was warm (had driving home 30 miles about 30 min before i worked on it) not super warm though.
and i had all the plugs. maybe next time ill try with plugs out.
not overly worried. was just a random check.
news on the boost issue. i tapped into the hot pipe boost port. and same problem :/
its either something else, or the wastegate. im starting to bet on wastegate.
ill check timing yet again tomorrow.
but it still stays at 8-9 if im in lower rpm and then as rpm increaces, so does boost.
got my intercooler installed today and it hit 18.1 (using the beak boost button on my EMS gauge)
it had to have been for only a split second cause i didnt ever see past 17 on the gauge and no boost cut.
this weekend ill try my other wastegate. im oh so excited to do the swap with the motor in the car :/
on a side note, the intercooler is very nice! a little bit different of a boosting sound, and it feels like it builds boost faster, and the butt dyno says moar powa!! :P
it was a bitch and a half getting the pipes to match.
the hot pipe side went without a hitch.
the cold pipe.... dear god.
i ended up cutting the end off and joining it to my EMS powered oem hotpipe replacement. works for now it seems.
piping in the ebay kits definitely suck bigtime. arber021407-14-2011, 12:17 PMIs this the waste gate i sent you?
If this one is bad i will send you another one. Sorry if this one is bad.:( rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 02:56 PMno this is the one i got in the swap
the ct20b one
the one ill try this weekend is the one you sent me rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 09:56 PMi found a vac leak i had! the spot where the old tvsv vented to, i forgot to cap it! so i was drawing in air from there!
capped it today and removed the ac idle up valve
hopefully my slightly surging idle will go away
if i unplug the idle control valve nothing happens though... im idling at 1k and occasionally itll go to 900ish.
i thought it was supposed to be at 850 all the time? how do i lower it more?
i think ill swap out my wastegate tonight or tomorrow in hopes of normal boost levels :P eckoman_pdx07-15-2011, 01:49 PMim getting mad!
i had boost creep issues with my open downpipe (running stock WG so it SHOULD be 8-10 psi correct?) it was staying around 8psi til i got higher in the rpm, and it would spike. sometimes to 17. never over though. not once did i hit fuel cut.
i just put on the midpipe and MADE that guy fit :P now its much quieter and i figured boost would stop creeping.
well it still creeps! 8psi til it gets higher in the RPM band and it spikes to 12-17
i have the port off the compressor to the wastegate and the other side is plugged. tomorrow ill try a new plug. and maybe try the boost pressure signal off the hotpipe. if not i have to try my ct26 wastegate.
grrrrr
anything else at all it could be?
when i manually check the WG with a bike pump it will open the gate all the way. verified by removing the downpipe. pumping open the wastegate. and marking its spot on the actuator arm and then installing the downpipe and making sure it opens enough... it does.... what gives?!
idk what else it could be!
Yes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
news on the boost issue. i tapped into the hot pipe boost port. and same problem :/
its either something else, or the wastegate. im starting to bet on wastegate.
ill check timing yet again tomorrow.
but it still stays at 8-9 if im in lower rpm and then as rpm increaces, so does boost.
It very well could be the downpipe itself. The Motoria/SSAC/XS Power/Ebay Downpipes tend to have boost creep issues. The wastegate can hit the flange I think it is, or the inside of the downpipe, I forget which. At any rate, it causes the wastegate to get hung up and not fully open, which causes boost creek. I know some peope have grinded a bit off to solve the issue, but I honestly forget what they ground/did and where. You might want to do some research into this, as I know the boost creep due to the wastegate hitting the flange/downpipe and not opening fully can be an issue with the Motoria/Ebay downpipe. I know a few people I could call to figure it out so you'd know what to look for, but I honestly lack the time right now since I have to arrange my father's funeral do all obligations and financial/estate things related to his passing. You're best bet would be to look into that yourself, since I know it can be an issue with a Motoria DP. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 02:39 PMyes i did hear that, which is why i tested it to see if it hits the DP.
i pumped up the wg and waited to hear if it hit the dp, and even felt the dp to see if i could feel it hit. neither happened, so im not sure.
it still creeped before the downpipe
if it still does after a wastegate swap ill look more into the downpipe
again, sorry about your dad man :( dont even worry about researching stuff for me, youve got MUCH better things to be doing right now. SVX9207-15-2011, 03:41 PMDamn, still having boost creep?! I've got my own problems too, I think I'm boost creeping but can't see it yet due to lack of boost gauge
Even if the wastegate seems fine, in the past it seemed to be a common problem point and often resolved the issue. Is it possible the spring inside just can't hold?
Feel free to borrow my stuff if you want to test against as well, given we're both using the stock equipment. Like I said though, I think I'm creeping too based on how it pulls especially cold. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 04:20 PMyou need a boost gauge stat!
the spring shouldnt hold.
after 8 it should be all the way open and let it not shoot up like it is.
its certainly fun, but id much rather get it fixed and run more boost without the fear of overboosting CJMR2T07-15-2011, 05:25 PMyou need a boost gauge stat!
the spring shouldnt hold.
after 8 it should be all the way open and let it not shoot up like it is.
its certainly fun, but id much rather get it fixed and run more boost without the fear of overboosting
If it will hold 8psi in the low and mid rpm range, but creeps the upper rpm range, then 99% of the time the wastegate is functioning fine and the problem is its too small (can't flow enough exhaust volume).
This is a pretty common problem in the MKIII Supra turbo world too. They often have to port the WG port to keep from creeping above 5k rpm if they have a decent amount of other work done.
Going back to what Echoman pointed out, this is a good possibility too. I totally forgot about this little common problem.... my guess is that either its not fully opening cause of the common interference problem or its that the ports are too small and just can't flow enough. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 07:49 PMcould i get my WG ported?
to help regulate better eckoman_pdx07-16-2011, 02:20 AMyes i did hear that, which is why i tested it to see if it hits the DP.
i pumped up the wg and waited to hear if it hit the dp, and even felt the dp to see if i could feel it hit. neither happened, so im not sure.
it still creeped before the downpipe
if it still does after a wastegate swap ill look more into the downpipe
again, sorry about your dad man :( dont even worry about researching stuff for me, youve got MUCH better things to be doing right now.
Thanks. On a side note, cemetery and funeral home shopping sucks :(
Damn, still having boost creep?! I've got my own problems too, I think I'm boost creeping but can't see it yet due to lack of boost gauge
Even if the wastegate seems fine, in the past it seemed to be a common problem point and often resolved the issue. Is it possible the spring inside just can't hold?
Feel free to borrow my stuff if you want to test against as well, given we're both using the stock equipment. Like I said though, I think I'm creeping too based on how it pulls especially cold.
Seriously, get a boost gauge ASAP. Heck, even a cheap mechanical gauge is better than nothing. If you are on a budget, you can get an autometer mechanical for well under $100. Is it the best? No, but it's better than nothing.
could i get my WG ported?
to help regulate better
Yes, you can have the wastegate ported. It will allow more airflow. I still suspect the DP has something to do with it though. rocklizzard9107-16-2011, 04:51 AMThanks. On a side note, cemetery and funeral home shopping sucks :(
Seriously, get a boost gauge ASAP. Heck, even a cheap mechanical gauge is better than nothing. If you are on a budget, you can get an autometer mechanical for well under $100. Is it the best? No, but it's better than nothing.
Yes, you can have the wastegate ported. It will allow more airflow. I still suspect the DP has something to do with it though.
im sure it sucks more than anything!
i cant imagine :/
i told him the same. a cheapo autozone one and just set it on the dash temporarily
ah cool. i may look into that.
i dont think its the downpipe. i gave the WG a good 20+ psi with a bike pump pretty quickly and the WG opened just as far with the DP on, as when it was off (marked the actuator rod)
the WG didnt seem to like to hold pressure though. like its leaking
maybe a hole in the diaphragm? eckoman_pdx07-16-2011, 01:52 PMim sure it sucks more than anything!
i cant imagine :/
i told him the same. a cheapo autozone one and just set it on the dash temporarily
ah cool. i may look into that.
i dont think its the downpipe. i gave the WG a good 20+ psi with a bike pump pretty quickly and the WG opened just as far with the DP on, as when it was off (marked the actuator rod)
the WG didnt seem to like to hold pressure though. like its leaking
maybe a hole in the diaphragm?
Is it the same wastegate from when you thought you had issues earlier in the year? rocklizzard9107-16-2011, 09:03 PMyes eckoman_pdx07-17-2011, 02:07 AMyes
Hmm, wouldn't hurt to swap it then I guess. rocklizzard9107-17-2011, 04:32 AMyes i think i will later today Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.
View Full Version : 3SGTE Wars: Episode II - The Rock Strikes Back
rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 12:46 AMIt is a dark time for the
PNW. Although the ringlands
have been destroyed,
Rocklizzard has driven the
crappy stock pistons from their
hidden base and pursued them
across the garage.
Evading the dreaded sarcasm
from Foygroup, a group of freedom
fighters led by Rocklizzard91
have established a new secret
base on the remote rain world
of the PNW.
The evil lord Darth 'Group,
obsessed with finding young
gen3 swaper's, has dispatched
thousands of remote probes into
the far reaches of the country....
how sad is it that there are 3 unfinished gen3 swaps in the PNW...im almost ashamed to be here :rofl:
good news: i found my oil squirters. they went missing at the first machine shop i saw. they cleaned the block and removed them and forgot to return them! sooo glad they had them, as lithia said it could be 6-8 weeks for new ones.
anyway, tomorrow brings a big step in my build.
i have finally decided on who will be machining my motor. after 3 machinists, ive found one i like.
DG machine here in Auburn will be doing the work. local FTW!
they are very well known in the area, primarily for a local speed shop who's shop car is a 1100hp drag civic. if they use him to build their crazy motors, i think he can do my 300hp block just fine :P
i drop off the block/misc parts tomorrow and i SHOULD get it back in 3 weeks he says
the build will include:
-JE forged pistons (.020 oversized)
-micropolished crank
-ACL race bearings
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP headstuds
-freshly lapped valves
-new gasket kit from lithia
-3" downpipe probably from EMS
-Ebay IC setup
-new headgasket (undecided on thickness)
i may be missing more. but im not sure.
it will all be freshly painted before re-install.
i am also thinking about tucking the bay. it will be a mild tuck for sure. but im unsure if i want to do a full tuck just yet. i think i may let it run and prove itself first.
im unsure as to weather or not i want to hardwire the fuel pump or not too. i need a gen2 plug for the FPR or a gen3 FPR/resistor pack.
hardwiring means no failure. itll be loud...but oh well.
any adverse effects on the car being hardwired?
a couple questions:
- are stock main bolts reuseable? or not?
- are stock flywheel -> crankshaft bolts reuseable?
- are stock flywheel -> pressure plate bolts reuseable?
i think thats all for now!
any suggestions/info are welcome nocashrider06-01-2011, 01:08 AMive reused the bolts before but if your doing a fresh build spend the extra money for bolts and save yourself the piece of mind because you just never know especially since your getting more hp out of it rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 01:12 AMvery true good sir. i ask because my VW uses stretch bolts. and you need all new bolts EVERY freaking time. which is not fun. but since it is a rebuild i guess it'd be a good idea mr.asian.m206-01-2011, 01:35 AMi would go with new set of bolts. take some pics!!! rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 09:29 AMill get some pics.
for today itll all just be stuff as im dropping it off. so no cool pics just yet :( nocashrider06-01-2011, 09:36 AMgood thing you found the oil squirters too cus that would have sucked having to wait on them rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 10:03 AMyes! i was stressing out big time!
woulda been so mad waiting for such a small thing :/ rcracin06-01-2011, 10:19 AMHard wiring the fuel pump means that if you're in an accident and the car is all busted up with the key in the ON position, fuel might be gushing out everywhere.
Do it the correct way. rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 10:34 AMhow will that not be so the other way?
i could send it a signal off something that powers off then the car dies.
if i can source a gen2 plug i would like to do it the right way
however, that prooves to be quite difficult... no one wants to hack off a plug and make their harness incomplete SVX9206-01-2011, 11:02 AMMost epic thread intro ever! And shut your face cory, my car will be running soon enough. Might not be for a couple weeks but it'll happen.
Glad you found those oil squirter's, never good when stuff goes missing. rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 12:45 PMglad someone appreciated it! :rofl:
your car will beat me im sure :(
will be fun though bring it by when it runs!
yeah! was soooo glad he found them! rocklizzard9106-01-2011, 08:22 PMjust dropped her off at her new home for the next few weeks!! Foygroup06-02-2011, 12:44 PMSo, now that you have depicted me as the evil empire with weapons of sarcasm, does this mean my car is a Ty Fighter. Because given the way your car imploded, it should be called the Death Star... haha...
There, sarcasm weapons check..... complete......
Glad to see you feel up to starting this thread. You must be getting cocky enough to actually show some pictures soon. Unlike others in your alliance who feel we should just use the force to picture how well their build is going..... ahemmmm....
Secondary sarcasm weapons check..... complete.....
Good luck, I look forward to seeing it on the road.
(actual sentiment, a rare occurence, but yes, it is there)
BTW Oteck lives in BC just North of you and his has not run for years either. Must be a disturbance in the force over there. SVX9206-02-2011, 01:38 PMIt's widely known that Oteck crash landed on Endor while fighting against imperial forces. He awaits for his training to be completed and currently resides in a hollowed out tree in some swamp. arber021406-02-2011, 01:46 PMWhat kind of plugs are you talking about? I am not completely clear on the description, are you talking about the resister packs of a 1991+ turbo model? Foygroup06-02-2011, 01:56 PMYes, he had a faulty FP relay so he is looking to hardwire it on all the time. I guess he is having trouble with the 91NA FP Relay socket fitting the GEN3 FP Relay that came with the swap. When he says Plug, I think he is referring to the socket on the end of the wire.
And since Oteck is in Canada, he is really on the Ice Planet Hoth... arber021406-02-2011, 02:00 PMI still got mine from when i did the swap, wires and everything in tact. My gen 3 came with them so i just saved the old ones, and i think they were the same as the gen 3. nocashrider06-02-2011, 05:19 PMLol oteck has been to busy modifying his car to wory about it running, I could see him winning a car show with it and then have to have it towed away since it doesnt run eckoman_pdx06-02-2011, 05:42 PMI'm unsure as to weather or not i want to hardwire the fuel pump or not too. i need a gen2 plug for the FPR or a gen3 FPR/resistor pack.
hardwiring means no failure. itll be loud...but oh well.
any adverse effects on the car being hardwired?
You know what happened to my car when it was hardwired (by a shop, not me) to be on all the time, and you know all the issues it caused and problems I had. Reinstalling the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump resistor pack fixed all the issues immediately. It was an immediate difference once I reinstalled it all. I personally don't think it's worth it. With it locked in high volt mode on an OEM ECU, the car runs rich off boost and at idle, it screws with the deceleration fuel cut, and a litany of other things. It just ran like crap, idled like crap, ran rich and didn't drive right off boost or at low speeds (among other things). Re-installing the fuel pump relay and resistor pack fixed everything.
If you are running a stand alone and can tune for the fact the car's going to be in high volt mode all the time, go for if you really want to (though it really doesn't do much). If you're running an OEM ECU (which you are for now), then keep it and install it.
Is the car side socket for the FPR/Relay a Gen 2 socket or a Gen 3 socket? As for where to get a Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relay, I'm positive Baktash has some Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relays. rocklizzard9106-03-2011, 04:39 AMSo, now that you have depicted me as the evil empire with weapons of sarcasm, does this mean my car is a Ty Fighter. Because given the way your car imploded, it should be called the Death Star... haha...
There, sarcasm weapons check..... complete......
Glad to see you feel up to starting this thread. You must be getting cocky enough to actually show some pictures soon. Unlike others in your alliance who feel we should just use the force to picture how well their build is going..... ahemmmm....
Secondary sarcasm weapons check..... complete.....
Good luck, I look forward to seeing it on the road.
(actual sentiment, a rare occurence, but yes, it is there)
BTW Oteck lives in BC just North of you and his has not run for years either. Must be a disturbance in the force over there.
yeah! youve got the badass darth vader tie fighter! you have all the red gauges to complete the look ;)
and yes! i think i might name it death star!
ive been trying to name it.
i was trying to think of a really stereotypical bitchy girl name. ya know, like high maintenance :rofl:
yes! i will show pics!
hiiiiiiyah!
pics!
all my stuff loaded for delivery
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252242_10150251497903156_586653155_8653165_5964162 _n.jpg
my motors temporary home!
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253862_10150251497943156_586653155_8653166_2628732 _n.jpg
im so excited to drive the beast again! i miss it so much. its parked at the base (30 min away) and after work its not a rare occurrence to see me sitting in the lifeless shell sulking :P
gasp! perhaps there is a curse over here!! :rofl:
It's widely known that Oteck crash landed on Endor while fighting against imperial forces. He awaits for his training to be completed and currently resides in a hollowed out tree in some swamp.
yeah that hollow tree has a badass supply or original mods stockpiled in it!
grrrr!!! we must infiltrate said swap!!
What kind of plugs are you talking about? I am not completely clear on the description, are you talking about the resister packs of a 1991+ turbo model?
i will post pics for you
but essentially, i have the gen3 body harness. and gen2 resistor/relay/injector packs. so the plugs did not work.
Yes, he had a faulty FP relay so he is looking to hardwire it on all the time. I guess he is having trouble with the 91NA FP Relay socket fitting the GEN3 FP Relay that came with the swap. When he says Plug, I think he is referring to the socket on the end of the wire.
And since Oteck is in Canada, he is really on the Ice Planet Hoth...
i think it was faulty spade connector BS. bad idea man. i WILL fix it. i think that helped said death star explode.
however, it wa snot a 91NA plug/socket. it was a gen2/gen3 mix.
but i do have BOTH ends of the 91 stuff. so i may see if i can just use those since itll plug in correctly then.
I still got mine from when i did the swap, wires and everything in tact. My gen 3 came with them so i just saved the old ones, and i think they were the same as the gen 3.
so what youre saying is if they are what i need youre gonna sell me them right ;)
You know what happened to my car when it was hardwired (by a shop, not me) to be on all the time, and you know all the issues it caused and problems I had. Reinstalling the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump resistor pack fixed all the issues immediately. It was an immediate difference once I reinstalled it all. I personally don't think it's worth it. With it locked in high volt mode on an OEM ECU, the car runs rich off boost and at idle, it screws with the deceleration fuel cut, and a litany of other things. It just ran like crap, idled like crap, ran rich and didn't drive right off boost or at low speeds (among other things). Re-installing the fuel pump relay and resistor pack fixed everything.
If you are running a stand alone and can tune for the fact the car's going to be in high volt mode all the time, go for if you really want to (though it really doesn't do much). If you're running an OEM ECU (which you are for now), then keep it and install it.
Is the car side socket for the FPR/Relay a Gen 2 socket or a Gen 3 socket? As for where to get a Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relay, I'm positive Baktash has some Gen 3 Fuel Pump Relays.
correct good sir, but i thought on the phone you said on a gen3 it does not matter.
a local guy gas a gen3 and his pump is hardwired and seems to have no issues.
and as for running rich at idle with the pump at 100%
i think thats incorrect.
the reason behind a high/low speed is that there is less fuel being pushed through the injectors, vs the amount of fuel being injected at WOT at 18psi.
fuel pressure remains the same. its simply the amount used that changes.
if at idle you have 550 cc's draining a min, you will need 550cc's + the amount to keep fuel pressure where it needs to be (we'll say 50psi)
at WOT and 18PSI youre using 1100CC's per min, you need to fill 1100cc's plus the amount needed to maintain 50psi.
the job of the Fuel pressure regulator is to make sure that with variances in fuel pump speed you still get 50psi.
but this is due to my understanding with my VW. but as far as i can see logically, 50psi is 50psi no matter the speed of the pump. but at idle it will work harder to maintain the 50psi and put strain on the pump and fuel pressure reg. (because it CAN push more than needed, so the Fuel pressure reg has to bypass more fuel to keep pressure low.
regardless, i would prefer to not hardwire it if i can find plugs. if not, ill have to hardwire it with the help of a tachs ensing relay (to avoid the fuel pump from running while the motor isnt running) arber021406-03-2011, 11:54 AMYes, if they are the same parts as the ones you need i will help you out. rocklizzard9106-03-2011, 01:05 PMawesome! thanks man! SW21T06-03-2011, 02:23 PMIf jordan is one and you cory is 2 unfinished 3rd gen....who might the 3rd be? Starlet 3SGTE06-03-2011, 06:14 PMhow will that not be so the other way?
i could send it a signal off something that powers off then the car dies.
The factory setup activates the fuel pump relay via the cam sensor. When you first turn the key on it activates for approx 2 seconds then reactivates once the cam sensor detects the engine turning over. Very seldom would the engine continue running if the car is flipped therefore shutting off the fuel.
Amazing what Tercel owners can tell you. CJMR2T06-03-2011, 07:26 PMThe factory setup activates the fuel pump relay via the cam sensor. When you first turn the key on it activates for approx 2 seconds then reactivates once the cam sensor detects the engine turning over. Very seldom would the engine continue running if the car is flipped therefore shutting off the fuel.
Amazing what Tercel owners can tell you.
Close, but not quite. There is no pre-start timed prime control. The pump has a check valve that prevents drain back and the fuel pressure regulator obviously will not allow pressure relief beyound its pressure setting at atmospheric pressure (or at least if its good and not leaking). This keeps pressure on the system at all times so there is no need for a timed prime setup.
The pump is fed power via the Circuit Open Relay. The COR has two different coils that will close the contacts to supply power to the pump. One is a tap from the STA signal (which is live during cranking) and the other is the FC signal from the ECU.
You are basically correct in saying the cam sensor (although not really the proper name in this application) once the engine is turning. Basically the COR is turned on via the STA signal and as soon as the ECU recieves the pulsing NE signal from the distributor, it energizes the second coil of the COR so once the STA signal is lost (not cranking the engine any more), the COR stays on via the ECU from the FC signal.
There is a second relay and resistor pack inbetween the COR and the pump itself. This is to reduce the speed of the pump durning low load conditions. Basically its a standard 5pin relay (power IN from COR, then one OUT directly to the pump and another OUT that runs through a resistor, then taps back into the pump feed wire). The normal conditon is through the resistor then when the ECU sense a load of a pre-determined point, it energizes the relay thus changine the power routing from though the resistor to directly to the pump (feeding it full voltage). Tylero06-03-2011, 08:14 PMIve got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there. arber021406-03-2011, 08:22 PMClose, but not quite. There is no pre-start timed prime control. The pump has a check valve that prevents drain back and the fuel pressure regulator obviously will not allow pressure relief beyound its pressure setting at atmospheric pressure (or at least if its good and not leaking). This keeps pressure on the system at all times so there is no need for a timed prime setup.
The pump is fed power via the Circuit Open Relay. The COR has two different coils that will close the contacts to supply power to the pump. One is a tap from the STA signal (which is live during cranking) and the other is the FC signal from the ECU.
You are basically correct in saying the cam sensor (although not really the proper name in this application) once the engine is turning. Basically the COR is turned on via the STA signal and as soon as the ECU recieves the pulsing NE signal from the distributor, it energizes the second coil of the COR so once the STA signal is lost (not cranking the engine any more), the COR stays on via the ECU from the FC signal.
There is a second relay and resistor pack inbetween the COR and the pump itself. This is to reduce the speed of the pump durning low load conditions. Basically its a standard 5pin relay (power IN from COR, then one OUT directly to the pump and another OUT that runs through a resistor, then taps back into the pump feed wire). The normal conditon is through the resistor then when the ECU sense a load of a pre-determined point, it energizes the relay thus changine the power routing from though the resistor to directly to the pump (feeding it full voltage).
I dont like this guy^^^.:mad:
:lol: CJMR2T06-03-2011, 08:37 PMI dont like this guy^^^.:mad:
:lol:
And why would that be? Starlet 3SGTE06-04-2011, 03:39 AMIve got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there.
Unless you live in a boat or on a different country you aren't farther east. Foygroup06-04-2011, 11:06 AMHe was referring to Rocklizzard (Cory) and SVX92 (Jordan) who are both in Washington State and Oteck (Jon) who live in BC as a reference to a comment of mine about there being a disturbance in the force on the West coast since so many of their cars on off the road right now.
I have my own droid which can make repairs to my car will I am driving to keep it running. Although, I don't recall seeing them on Ty fighters, but Vader's ship was different and he could always use the force and fix it himself as well. SVX9206-04-2011, 01:05 PM"these aren't the droids you're looking for"
I knew you where a schemer bill, but droids! I can't compete with automated life!
Just wait I've got an imperial walker mod set up for my car, it'll be a beast. Foygroup06-04-2011, 04:04 PMI would so rock an imperal walker, or even better on of those high speed bikes they were running thru the forests of Endor. They were hot.
Absent the ability of getting a walker, I wouldn't mind having built in retractable jacks to raise the car off the ground to work on it. Heytheremr206-04-2011, 06:48 PMPfff....nerds..
http://images.paraorkut.com/img/pics/images/s/smiley_geek-13811.png
:p Foygroup06-04-2011, 08:18 PMHeather, who let you out of OT? We are talking about real cars out here so be nice.
So how many of you Plan on having your cars road ready by mid August? Will that work for a meet? If so, where is a good point to plan for? Heytheremr206-04-2011, 09:17 PMOut of OT? Pops, in case you forgot, post count don't go up in OT
My car is up and running as is! Even took care of my CEL! Now to hopefully pass emissions :ugh: Foygroup06-04-2011, 10:01 PMJust saying Play nice, you're not in OT.
I have never seen you out of the asylum so I was surprised to see you here.
I am glad you got it up and running and to think your on the Left Coast too. There is hope for you all over there. At least your not in Cali. Emissions there is a beast. I don't have inspections for my car anymore. It's considered historic here in MD after 20 years. Heytheremr206-04-2011, 11:10 PMLucky! :(
My car has been running all along after I restored it, 2 years ago. The last time it was out of commission was when my axle needed replacing and the longest wait on that was the shipping. My CEL didn't prevent me from driving, it just made me run rich as hell. SVX9206-05-2011, 03:37 AMI should be golden by the end of this month. Also my wife will be out of country during august visiting Ireland. It'll be the longest time we've been apart so a meet at that time works perfect, gives me something to do and keeps me out of serious trouble...
The point of meetup is gonna have to be something we vote on arber021406-05-2011, 11:53 AMAnd why would that be?
Because he is right 98% of the time. :D rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:20 AMIf jordan is one and you cory is 2 unfinished 3rd gen....who might the 3rd be?
you have an unfinished gen3!!
Ive got to say the into to this thread and all the follow up role playing going on made my day. If I was more clever I would continue on with the theme, but that will have to wait till a later reply.
as for naming her death star I will jump on board and when ever I talk about said imploding object it will be referred to as the death star :)
as for the disturbance in the force, I am glad I live a little further east then you guys. now get you shit running drive up to Oteck's place to invade his mod filled swamp and ill meet you guys there.
haha im down for calling my motor the death star! woot woot!!
i am also down to invade said mod filled swamp! that guy has every mr2 thing known to man!!
He was referring to Rocklizzard (Cory) and SVX92 (Jordan) who are both in Washington State and Oteck (Jon) who live in BC as a reference to a comment of mine about there being a disturbance in the force on the West coast since so many of their cars on off the road right now.
I have my own droid which can make repairs to my car will I am driving to keep it running. Although, I don't recall seeing them on Ty fighters, but Vader's ship was different and he could always use the force and fix it himself as well.
yeah :P its gotta be! i blame the PNW of our un-running swaps!! :P
i dont think ty fighters have droids, but this explains your luck!
or maybe yours blew up and youre just covering it very well ;)
"these aren't the droids you're looking for"
I knew you where a schemer bill, but droids! I can't compete with automated life!
Just wait I've got an imperial walker mod set up for my car, it'll be a beast.
i lawled at this!! x2 on not competing with automated life! i gotz to sleep sometimes!!
I would so rock an imperal walker, or even better on of those high speed bikes they were running thru the forests of Endor. They were hot.
Absent the ability of getting a walker, I wouldn't mind having built in retractable jacks to raise the car off the ground to work on it.
i would
you know they do make jacks for purposes that you speak of ;)
and hey_guys is only posting here out of OT cause we boutz to kick it once my death star runs!!
I should be golden by the end of this month. Also my wife will be out of country during august visiting Ireland. It'll be the longest time we've been apart so a meet at that time works perfect, gives me something to do and keeps me out of serious trouble...
The point of meetup is gonna have to be something we vote on
im hoping to be finished late june early july as well
so august should work fo sho
and jordan if you need that much help, we can chill! ill keep ya out of trouble!....maybe....:rofl:
Because he is right 98% of the time. :D
thats why i no homo
but really
his info saves me time and time again! rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:24 AMoh yeah! and i just ordered a little over 600$ worth of build up parts!
woot woot?
essential, but not fun :( that money could go to mods had my dumbass not blown up the motor!! :P
oh wells. she'll run soon! i can feel it! hurry up machinist! i want her now!
also its mah b-day!!! well it was 24min ago (june 5th) Foygroup06-06-2011, 09:52 AMHappy b-day Rock... I didn't know. Hopefully the Death Star will be back on the road soon.
I need to come up with a name for mine.... I was thinking naming it after that Nubian ship that Queen Amidala has, it was all shinny silver and quick. Now I have to find out if they ever named it.
No new mods for me for a while, the AC in the house just died and I have to replace it. Just got a third quote for $10k. Not good. nocashrider06-06-2011, 10:39 AMdoes it really get that hot there? rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 11:38 AMthanks Bill!
and you should name it after whatever the shiney one is! i do believe there is a name!!
and the death star is close! im getting so anxious!
especially now after this big order.
all thats left now is a downpipe and ARP headstuds
10k for ac!!
no thanks!
thats crazy!! SVX9206-06-2011, 12:21 PMHappy B-day cory! Glad to see you've managed to survive another day!
10k for AC, bill have you ever been told the secret to staying cold? Now, you may need to live in a commune, but I've heard from some very reliable sources clothes are the problem....;) rocklizzard9106-06-2011, 02:34 PMthanks man!!
starting to catch you old folks :P
finally not a teen! :rofl:
im not sure where youre going with that...are you saying you want to see bill naked?
weirdo :rofl: mr.asian.m206-06-2011, 04:12 PMhappy b-day cory. but, for real? 10k for ac???!! that's crazy. is the ac line made of gold? SVX9206-06-2011, 04:52 PMthanks man!!
starting to catch you old folks :P
finally not a teen! :rofl:
im not sure where youre going with that...are you saying you want to see bill naked?
weirdo :rofl:
I'm not that comfortable, however I'm sure he could find a like minded group of hippies or a term I'm sure that'll resound better with him, beatnicks/hipsters that would accept him. Forget AC, be free bill! rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 12:28 AMthanks mr.asian.m2!
and suuuure jordan. i know you dream of him ;)
good news!
i found a plug that will work for my fuel pump relay to make it plug in like stock!
its yellow....(off a supra) but it works.
now i just need the female end of the round 5 pin fuel injector resistor box and ill be set! CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:20 AMCory, You can talk to the MKIII Turbo supra guys about the round resistor plug. Im pretty sure its the same one. Only the Turbo MKIII Supra's though, N/A Supra's used High Impedence injectors so there is no resistor pack used.
I might have one cause I have a harness in storage for a 91 turbo supra but several of the plugs are missing, so I dont know for sure if that one is there. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 09:23 AMah,yes the one i found was NA which is why i couldnt find the 5 pin plug :(
if you had that i would happily buy it off you!
thats the one plug i need to make everything work as designed
the injector packs worked with the spade connectors... but if the FPR failed with it, im sure the injectors werent long behind it.
im much more confident if the reliability with the correct plugs CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:26 AMIf I have it, I'll just give it to you cause its not worth anything to me.... I probably wont be able to get over there till this weekend though so I wont know anything till then. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 11:33 AMThat's cool with me! No huge rush
Thanks!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-07-2011, 08:16 PMOk I will try to find the name for the car. I am sure it is so obscure no one will know what it is.
As for a $10k AC unit. It's for my house not my car. The house has one unit for 3,500 sq ft. So it's a 4 ton unit.
Still looking for competitive quotes.
So it looks like you and SVX will be done in time for mid August. I can't wait to see those turning fogs in my rear view. Haha. CJMR2T06-07-2011, 09:08 PMOk I will try to find the name for the car. I am sure it is so obscure no one will know what it is.
As for a $10k AC unit. It's for my house not my car. The house has one unit for 3,500 sq ft. So it's a 4 ton unit.
Still looking for competitive quotes.
So it looks like you and SVX will be done in time for mid August. I can't wait to see those turning fogs in my rear view. Haha.
Be glad you dont live down here. A 4ton would have a hella time cooling that much sq-ft'age down here. rocklizzard9106-07-2011, 11:21 PMyeah i knew it was for your house :P
10k for ac in a car better be made of gold :P
and yeah i would venture to say before mid july *knock on wood*
took the head apart again today for one more fine grit lapping, and to have it all opened up for when i get the new valveseals (chris do you think i should replace them while its out? they come in the engine overhaul gasket kit) do they replace like any other valve seal?
im sure youll love to see my car in your rearview :P
unless.....unless this was all a scam!! :eek: maybe its a monsterous build!! :rofl: CJMR2T06-07-2011, 11:29 PMCory, Its really up to you. The ones that are on it currently aren't that old are they? Didn't you change them when you redid the head just recently? rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 12:25 AMNo I did not. These seals are the same seals that came on the motor from EMS. I didn't do any seals yet because I hadn't thought about the valveseals. Perhaps I should?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Heytheremr206-08-2011, 04:27 AMMy 2 cents would be to change them anyway. For that security of knowing they're new. CJMR2T06-08-2011, 07:38 AMNo I did not. These seals are the same seals that came on the motor from EMS. I didn't do any seals yet because I hadn't thought about the valveseals. Perhaps I should?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Oh, then yeah, definitly change them. Its much easier to change them now with the head off and apart then it is to do it later with the head on. I thought when you pulled the head apart to lap the valves previously, you had changed them....
Changing them is pretty straight forward and simple, I pull the old ones off with neddle nose pliers but they do make special pliers for pulling them. Either way, you just need to be careful to not hit and scare the cam follower (lifter) bore.
Then use a 10mm socked with an extension to pop the new ones back on. they fit nicely into a 10mm socket just make sure to oil them well before hand. I usually pour oil in a cup and throw them all in the oil bath and just take one out as needed. rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 02:21 PMalrighty then! i shall change them!
maybe i should grab a cheap set of needle noses, bend them in a vice, then put heat shrink all over the metal edges so i dont scratch the lifter bores
good to know you can put them on with a 10mm!
any special weight oil i should use to oil bath them?
should i re lap them with the old ones in? or pull them out now lap, then reinstall the new seals after? CJMR2T06-08-2011, 02:50 PMThe seals play no role in lapping the valves so either way is fine.
I don't think you need or should bend needle nose. Just pull straight up off the stems. It doesn't usually required much force. When you put the new ones on, use a 6point 10mm socket and you'll notice the seal spring end fits nice and snug in it the just put it down on the stem and push until you feel it snap / pop into place.
Also any oil is fine, I use what ever is first going into the engine after the rebuild. drake2206-08-2011, 02:57 PMoh yeah! and i just ordered a little over 600$ worth of build up parts!
woot woot?
essential, but not fun :( that money could go to mods had my dumbass not blown up the motor!! :P
oh wells. she'll run soon! i can feel it! hurry up machinist! i want her now!
also its mah b-day!!! well it was 24min ago (june 5th)
Happy (belated) birthday! rocklizzard9106-08-2011, 03:00 PMah ok cool cool
and cool! thanks!
i should be getting my parts in soon :/ lithia didnt have all of them on hand so i had to wait... but soon enough!!
im unsure what oil to use when i rebuild
ill have to break it in...so i need to do some research on the best way
and thanks drake22!! rocklizzard9106-13-2011, 01:34 PMUpdate!
Just got off the phone with Aaron from lithia. Parts should arrive on Wednesday!
So machine work can continue shortly
Also, today is the one year and one day anniversary of my mr2 ownership!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-13-2011, 06:26 PMCongrats on all counts. I will have to see how long I have owned this one. rocklizzard9106-14-2011, 01:01 AMthanks!
i also just bought a 3" downpipe :)
so happy!
my late b-day present to myself rocklizzard9106-15-2011, 01:04 AMin addition to the DP i have purchased:
downpipe support from KO
and ARP head studs from KO
my parts will be here tomorrow for sure, so i will then rush them to the machine shop and see how long itll take for them to finish it all!!
next dilemma, to intercool or stock intercool
stock @ 14 daily'd and 17psi for fun?
or one of these?
more pieces/couplers (may let tweaking be easier to make it fit well)
TOYOTA 3SGTE MR2 SW20 CELICA GT4 INTERCOOLER KIT | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-3SGTE-MR2-SW20-CELICA-GT4-INTERCOOLER-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb66723abQQitemZ26075 8250411QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_5521wt_1165)
or once pice pipes (harder to tweak?)
1995 1996 1997 1998 Toyota Intercooler kits MR2 3SGTE | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-1996-1997-1998-Toyota-Intercooler-kits-MR2-3SGTE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb5cd9325QQitemZ20061 8644261QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_2870wt_1165)
not sure which kit would be better for me.
cheaper would be nicer...but ill be using this pipe setup for a while...no upgraded pipes for me rocklizzard9106-16-2011, 12:18 AMi haz parts!!
thanks Lithia!!
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/254235_10150264736788156_586653155_8785253_1027841 _n.jpg
took the bolts needed to DG machine today and talked with the guy. getting them to remove my two snapped studs in the turbo.
and he said it all MAY be done next week!
my jaw about hit the floor!
i was like uhhhh.... like..... as in a week-ish from today??
he's like yeah!
i was like freakin awesome!!
i would LIKE to get it in by june 30th
and running before the 4th of july. but we'll see. still lots to do!
in other news, my downpipe will be here the 17th, and my KO racing downpipe support and headstuds shipped out today! itll all be here soon! im freakin out man!
so happy its all coming together :)
not really waiting on parts anymore. just labor! Foygroup06-16-2011, 08:15 AMSounds great Rock. Will be fun to get back behind the wheel. rocklizzard9106-16-2011, 06:36 PMyes it will! im so excited to drive it again! rocklizzard9106-17-2011, 12:20 AMgot my downpipe today, a day early!!!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/255074_10150265592733156_586653155_8792715_3571176 _n.jpg Foygroup06-20-2011, 06:19 AMNice. But it's the wrong one. That looks like it should be on my car. Send it back. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 07:59 AMhuh??
the last shipment came in!
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260022_10150268340428156_586653155_8821993_2359852 _n.jpg
now just hurry up and wait for my block! nocashrider06-20-2011, 08:02 AMi think he wants it is what hes sayin Foygroup06-20-2011, 08:56 AMI think autocorrect on my IPhone can suck my ass. Some of the crap it puts out is rediculas. I was saying it's nice and shiny so it should be on my car. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 10:01 AMPft! I need shiny stuff so I can be cool too! :P Im excited to hear it with the new downpipe
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk arber021406-20-2011, 07:05 PMI have the inter cooler with the least amount of pipes and it can be a bitch to tweak. But it looks so clean and they are powder coated black. :D SVX9206-20-2011, 08:20 PMlooking good. we're gonna have a real similar list of bolt ons and parts it seems! CJMR2T06-20-2011, 08:25 PMPft! I need shiny stuff so I can be cool too! :P Im excited to hear it with the new downpipe
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Yeah cause "SHINY" adds 50hp.... :p Foygroup06-20-2011, 08:29 PMThat was my plan for extra HP. rocklizzard9106-20-2011, 10:00 PMI have the inter cooler with the least amount of pipes and it can be a bitch to tweak. But it looks so clean and they are powder coated black. :D
ah, good to know.
i think ill look into the one with more pieces when i can then
looking good. we're gonna have a real similar list of bolt ons and parts it seems!
orly?
i haz:
exhuast & DP 3" all the way back
cam gears
EMS MBC
4" intake
motor mounts
then my bottom end build stuffs.
what do you haz?
Yeah cause "SHINY" adds 50hp.... :p
it does! you dont even know! :P
That was my plan for extra HP.
THATS why youll be faster then!!
and heres my stuff (minus the head and VC) that im painting!
theres not a thing on the motor that wont be painted!
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/264420_10150269237538156_586653155_8832158_1513266 _n.jpg Foygroup06-21-2011, 08:50 AMMan, I don't wanna see my motor looking like that for a long time to come..... rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 09:16 AMYeah :/ no bueno
Didn't get much done last night. Wire wheeled a few parts. But then had to help a friend. I'll try some spray on stripper today. If not ill have to use my aircraft paint remover. Works well but I hate using it. It's crazy stuff.
I may have some suspension for the Mr2 soon! Just springs and inserts, but I'm cool with that. It'll be free for me essentially
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk Foygroup06-21-2011, 09:32 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores. 328FTW06-21-2011, 10:31 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores.
Your mr2 is broken cause it's not broken. My V6 is all fixed now to (well, has been for months) but I haven't driven it at all:( rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 10:32 AMThe only thing I have done with my car was fix a flat tire I woke up to over the weekend. These cars are such maintenance whores.
Wanna trade? Id take a flat!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk nocashrider06-21-2011, 10:47 AMThese cars are such maintenance whores.
perfectly quoted in my sig by 3sgtepower rocklizzard9106-21-2011, 11:13 AM^^^hilarious rocklizzard9106-22-2011, 12:11 AMaircraft paint stripper means business!
it burns too!
like bad!
melted the paint right off my old parts!
they went from this:
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198474_10150151891638156_586653155_7963208_5748249 _n.jpg
to this!
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/268306_10150270323318156_586653155_8841885_696313_ n.jpg
aaaaaaaaaannnnnnndddd, i may have a secret up my sleeve i may reveal later ;)
trust me, youll be jelly :rofl: Foygroup06-23-2011, 10:08 PMGold Plating? That would make me jelly..... :p rocklizzard9106-23-2011, 10:44 PMhowd you know?!?! :P jk! rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 03:42 AMnot that anyone but bill reads this, but i got something today!!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268396_10150273713198156_586653155_8864747_5240862 _n.jpg
looks so nice!
things left:
i need to take the head to get decked on monday. itll only take 20 min so no wait time really.
i need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan because i need to get them stat.
i only have 1 tube
grab turbo from machine shop
after that i just need to paint and assemble
to make sure its all good im going to create a checklist!
heres what i have
brakes work
engine oil
trans oil
clutch works
coolant lines all connected w/ coolant filled
boost pipes connected and tightened
timing belt on and tensioned
fuel lines on
fuel pump runs
throttle cable attached
start car
set idle valve
check leaks
check timing to TEN degrees
have friend check timing too :rofl:
initiate break-in process
missing anything?
i also need to find torque values
and need to know torque values for the arp studs if they differ from OEM
and if i need to retorque after 1st stage torque, and if i need to retorque after X number of miles. Foygroup06-25-2011, 07:25 AMDamn it you forgot to check tire pressure. It's been sitting for a while, I think you should change the air in your tires too. That shits gotta be old and need changing too.
Man that block looks nice like that, you almost don't wanna put it in. Just put a large piece of glass over it and use it as a base for a dinning room table. That would be hot you know.
Good luck get it together properly...
PS. Don't forget to fix the fuel relay issue too. rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 10:23 AMDamn it you forgot to check tire pressure. It's been sitting for a while, I think you should change the air in your tires too. That shits gotta be old and need changing too.
Man that block looks nice like that, you almost don't wanna put it in. Just put a large piece of glass over it and use it as a base for a dinning room table. That would be hot you know.
Good luck get it together properly...
PS. Don't forget to fix the fuel relay issue too.
ah, good idea! i actually could nitrogen fill them at work!
but then if i cant get it at college thats not cool :/
but thanks for the idea i fure sure need to do the tire pressure
been sitting since jan :/
yes i agree!
i got the pistons and i was like ah! i dont even wanna install them! they'll get dirty!
and now this is immaculate and im like AH! cover it! preserve it! no fingerprints! keep it clean! haha
it would be a badass table though!
the fuel pump relay issue has been fixed :) got the correct plug
still need a injector plug though rcracin06-25-2011, 02:37 PMyou really need a turbo transmission. i wouldn't go launching it too much with that n/a trans Heytheremr206-25-2011, 04:46 PMHey! I read this thread too! Haha except I usually get this info quicker through Facebook :p
Things are looking up! SVX9206-25-2011, 06:59 PMGreat looking breakdown man! I was pumped when I got your text, but then I remembered my garage is empty....
I'm super jelly of your engine parts. I'm all paranoid I'm gonna pop something on my car when I get it back! rocklizzard9106-25-2011, 07:34 PMyou really need a turbo transmission. i wouldn't go launching it too much with that n/a trans
yeah i know :( no hard launches for me :(
maybe next summer i can afford a turbo trans swap
Hey! I read this thread too! Haha except I usually get this info quicker through Facebook :p
Things are looking up!
ah, true true, youre a fellow FB follower, so i didnt expect ya to post here :P
Great looking breakdown man! I was pumped when I got your text, but then I remembered my garage is empty....
I'm super jelly of your engine parts. I'm all paranoid I'm gonna pop something on my car when I get it back!
thanks!
soon enough youll have the car back im sure!
then we have to go cruise! haha
just check your timing before you breakher loose :rofl:
you better have learned a lesson at my expense! nocashrider06-26-2011, 01:30 AMi need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan
do you have actual tubes of it or did you buy the stuff in the easy cheese type squeez out bottle/tube thing? if you didnt you should it make putting it on a 1000 times easier and less messy/wastefull Heytheremr206-26-2011, 04:10 AM^trüf rocklizzard9106-26-2011, 04:34 PMi got the little tube one like you said
but only one. i need to know so i can pick more up tomorrow if ill need em
im painting like a madman!
EVERYTHING will be painted!
except maybe the Alt...
building the bottom end tomorrow and then the rest on tue! shes gettin close! arber021406-26-2011, 07:00 PMnot that anyone but bill reads this, but i got something today!!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268396_10150273713198156_586653155_8864747_5240862 _n.jpg
looks so nice!
things left:
i need to take the head to get decked on monday. itll only take 20 min so no wait time really.
i need to know how many tubes of sealant i need to get for the oil pan because i need to get them stat.
i only have 1 tube
grab turbo from machine shop
after that i just need to paint and assemble
to make sure its all good im going to create a checklist!
heres what i have
brakes work
engine oil
trans oil
clutch works
coolant lines all connected w/ coolant filled
boost pipes connected and tightened
timing belt on and tensioned
fuel lines on
fuel pump runs
throttle cable attached
start car
set idle valve
check leaks
check timing to TEN degrees
have friend check timing too :rofl:
initiate break-in process
missing anything?
i also need to find torque values
and need to know torque values for the arp studs if they differ from OEM
and if i need to retorque after 1st stage torque, and if i need to retorque after X number of miles.
A little warning could have been fine you ass. I had to put my shades on to look at that picture.:D nocashrider06-26-2011, 07:20 PMjust1 tube is more than enough rocklizzard9106-26-2011, 11:56 PMreally? it looks like an RTV tube. says 3floz thats enough? looks tiny!! but if you say one is enough i guess it is. just looks like its gonna be close haha nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:12 AMhttp://cdn3.iofferphoto.com/img/item/199/929/778/UkCr.jpg rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:15 AM^^not what i have... i got the oem stuff
also i need to know where i can get these... i made a thread too
are they the same as the upper o-rings? (not pictured)
they feel plastic though
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0697.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0696.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0692.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0691.jpg nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:19 AMoh i didnt know you were using the oem stuff (i remember reading somewhere that permatex makes the oem stuff but who knows) as for the injector seals i found the ones for my 5sfe at carquest through one of their distributors so i would try there first rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:23 AMoooh ok. so i will prob need more oem stuff then. i guess ill buy 2 more. cant hurt to have it i guess.
hmmmm ok cool thanks. the only issue is idk what they look like normally nocashrider06-27-2011, 12:26 AMthey are just a squishy cylinder gasket but as you can tell they have been smashed down and shaped into what you have now over time, i would recommend changing those and the oring gaskets on the injectors to just so you dont have to worry about it and i think its like a few bucks per injector for all 3 gaskets rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:35 AMah, ok maybe my overhaul gasket kit DOES have them then... rocklizzard9106-27-2011, 12:38 AMhttp://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/images/parts/toyota/fullsize/MAF488B.jpg
same as top seals!
im good! thanks for the help! arber021406-27-2011, 05:50 PMYou can get an O-ring kit from any auto part store, they are cheap as dirt. rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 01:03 AMi thought it was plastic. that was the issue :P
and i was supposed to make lots of ground on the build today...
instead, this happened
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267822_10150276274248156_586653155_8898434_6137970 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267356_10150276274483156_586653155_8898438_1943973 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260031_10150276274888156_586653155_8898441_1668491 _n.jpg
400$ discontinued headlights... bye bye.
i know you guys may not care for it since its a VW, but im pretty bummed :( 328FTW06-28-2011, 04:31 AMHow'd that happen? rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 10:22 AMwas behind an SUV in traffic and he smashed on his brakes, i stood on my brake pedal and locked up right into him :/ 328FTW06-28-2011, 10:44 AMFollowing too close were we? I just won't even try follow close in traffic, I drive a land boat. arber021406-28-2011, 11:38 AMThat sucks man.
I bet he was writing in this forum when it happened rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 12:28 PMno it was after work and i was tired so i spaced. yes its my fault.
can still be bummed.
should have napped then gone to the machine shop later :/
no i was not on the phone arber021406-28-2011, 12:32 PMSometimes things like that have to happen in order to learn. Dont be too bummed, that is why it is called accident, it happens. I am sure you will be more careful next time.
Just get some cheap lights now since you are almost done with the mr2.
Be safe bud. rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 12:48 PMyeah i know what ya mean :(
yeah i cant afford those lights, even if they did sell them anymore :( theyve been discontinued. grrrr
but yeah im still finishing the mr2 this weekend so ill drive that til i grab all the parts for the vw Heytheremr206-28-2011, 01:31 PMAwe sad day!
At least it's all cosmetic damage yeah?
Ps that's a huge fcking truck! rocklizzard9106-28-2011, 02:15 PMyeah :( and yes all cosmetic. running out for mr2 and vw parts now.
the truck isnt that big just a 2500 dodge ram im pretty sure.
its a gasser eckoman_pdx06-29-2011, 09:34 PMi thought it was plastic. that was the issue :P
and i was supposed to make lots of ground on the build today...
instead, this happened
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267822_10150276274248156_586653155_8898434_6137970 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267356_10150276274483156_586653155_8898438_1943973 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260031_10150276274888156_586653155_8898441_1668491 _n.jpg
400$ discontinued headlights... bye bye.
i know you guys may not care for it since its a VW, but im pretty bummed :(
I'm sorry to see that man. I'm glad you are okay!!! Foygroup06-29-2011, 09:53 PMI am glad that was not a pic of your MR2. I was worried you got it on the road for a test drive and forgot to fill the brake fluid or something.
Knocked the Toyota right out of it, turned it into a VW.
Glad you're all good. rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 04:27 AMyeah :( either way its not cool
the way the mr2 is shaped it probably would have only damaged the hood :P
the vw ill get fixed, but im working more on the mr2 right now. its coming along well despite a few setbacks rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 04:28 AMsoooo i would like to take this time for you to all verify my timing.
as you see it is how it will go in the car unless someone can point out something wrong
heres how its set up
sneak peek at the motor, as well as my belt routing
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0746.jpg
crank set to 10*
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0745.jpg
dizzy set to the mark on the cam
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0744.jpg
cams set to perfect zero via the adjustable cam gears
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0741.jpg CJMR2T06-30-2011, 08:23 AMCory, that's wrong..... your off 10*....
With the cams as the are in the last photo (notchs lining up with dots in caps), the crank is supposed to be at 0*.
EVERYTHING is to be SET TO ZERO when the belt is installed... 328FTW06-30-2011, 08:48 AMCory, that's wrong..... your off 10*....
With the cams as the are in the last photo (notchs lining up with dots in caps), the crank is supposed to be at 0*.
EVERYTHING is to be SET TO ZERO when the belt is installed...
What he said. Both your cams are 10 degrees advanced at the moment which when you set your ignition timing will mean your timing is out of phase with the cams to what it would normally be cause it's cam driven.
Pulley to zero, zero cams. Then spin it over by hand a couple times to see if it still lines up, if so good to go. Throw the covers on and once you have the motor started in the car THEN use the timing marks to get the timing to 10 degrees BUT if you have a good gun with advance dial then set that to 10 and use ZERO on the crank, don't add them or you get 20 degrees which I think is what you did wrong last time iirc? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 01:00 PMgah. ok. i thought since the dizzy has its notch and i set it there then the crank is set to 10*
now i have to pull it all apart again. DOH!
thanks for saving me.
dont need another 20* timing incident
so:
crank = 0
cams = marks
dizzy = marks
then i still need to use the timing gun to set it to 10* or does that set it? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 02:19 PMrevised timing:
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0753.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0752.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/rocklizzard91/DSC_0751.jpg
are these ones good? rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 02:20 PMnote: belt marks are off because i already rotated it around a few times to make sure it was good. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:33 PM^^^ Cory, now you got it.....
Also if you haven't already figured it out, I was totally off in the thread about the studs and oil pump... was trying to answer two different questions to two different people (you and a supra guy) at the same time... you CAN'T run the oil pump with a drill on the 3s but you can on the 7M used in the MKIII supra's..... however, you can do basically what I was getting at to build pressure by having the trans attached and starter installed and feeding power to the starter to crank the engine before installing it in the car. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:48 PMAlso, about the setting to 10* with the timing gun, you do that via the distributor once the engine is running.
Timing gun hooked to the #1 plug wire and adjust the distributor until the flashing of the gun shows the timing mark on the crank lining up with 10*......
Oh, you have to have the computer in learn / diagnostic mode (TE1 and E1 jumped in the diagnostic port.... this is important too.
Also, the notch on the distributor is kind of redundant cause the drive key is offset so the distributor will only go in one way. It's impossible to put it in wrong. CJMR2T06-30-2011, 05:58 PMSome food for thought if using and advance type timing gun...
Always think ZERO and TEN.... If one is on zero the they other has to be on 10 if your trying to set to 10. By this I mean if the gun is set to ZERO, the the crank needs to line up with 10 and if the gun is set to 10, then the crank needs to line up with ZERO. rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 10:02 PMoh ok. so do i need to prime the oil pump somehow? or just crank it til pressure is made?
alright ill make sure to bring my jumper and a timing light then!
and yes :mad: i have learned the zero and ten rule.
i will set the gun to 10* and set the motor to zero, or set the gun to zero and set the motor to 10. i may to gun 0* and crank 10*. cant mess up zero on the gun.
thanks though!
got a lot done today! motor is all built.
took it to the shop where i pulled the car out of the deployed guys parking lot and into the shop. and began work!
removed the old trans, subframe, suspension, replaced fuel filter, put on new painted heatshields, and swapped stuff off the old trans to the new one. tomorrow at 10 the shop opens! ill be there at 945 waiting. it MAY run tomorrow! if not itll all be in and set up and start the next day!
so excited :) rocklizzard9106-30-2011, 11:55 PMheres a few pics for you guys ;)
let me know what ya think!
cheesy pic that mom took to show its actually mine ;)
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/264468_10150292321093156_586653155_8922540_7614664 _n.jpg
from the front
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267288_10150292321173156_586653155_8922543_2603728 _n.jpg
from the side
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/264478_10150292321198156_586653155_8922544_1258547 _n.jpg rcracin07-01-2011, 12:18 AMgood luck not scratching the transmission on the way in. :D rocklizzard9107-01-2011, 01:16 AMi didnt last time! its easy! Xer0 44907-01-2011, 03:29 AMThat was my plan for extra HP.
If shiny added HP, your' car would be the deathstar... rocklizzard9107-01-2011, 04:26 AMmanual s54 gearbox uses 2.7qts of oil correct? Foygroup07-01-2011, 10:10 PMVery nice Cory. So when is it going back in the car? When do we get to see the drive by videos? rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 03:13 AMits back in the car now! started right up this evening!
i forgot the timing light at home so it ws quick start then killed it.
but badass none the less!
bad news:
new downpipe doesnt mate up the my exhaust, and im lazy, so im just running an open downpipe :rofl:
should be crazy!
tomorrow im running back out there to gap the plugs (what do they get gapped to? i forgot) and set the timing, and fill it with water and drive her home!
im also going to set the cluster to zero miles and laser etch the back of the cluster at work with the current mileage. a new motor gets a odometer! haha CJMR2T07-02-2011, 12:52 PM^^^ Cory, what plugs are you using??? Unless they are copper's, don't gap them. All of your platinum and iridium and such come pre-gapped and its not recommended to try to gap them cause of risk of scratching off the coating.
If you are running copper's then .028-.030 is good. rcracin07-02-2011, 01:06 PMI've been gapping at .028 Works well for me. Copper plugs are super cheap and unlike what everyone else says, they do last for a decent amount of mileage. rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 01:27 PMim using NGK BKR7E-4644
im not sure if its copper or not... CJMR2T07-02-2011, 01:43 PMYep, those are copper's.... gap them to .028 and you'll be fine... like rcracin said, copper's work good. I actually won't run anything else other then copper's in a FI (Forced Induction) engine. rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 02:44 PMYep, those are copper's.... gap them to .028 and you'll be fine... like rcracin said, copper's work good. I actually won't run anything else other then copper's in a FI (Forced Induction) engine.
That's what Ive heard, which is why I picked these :) heading out now to go gap, time and add water!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk SVX9207-02-2011, 06:46 PMgot my fingers crossed for you buddy, hope that engine is running at 110%! Starlet 3SGTE07-02-2011, 08:59 PMHeat range 7 is ok but I like'm colder! rocklizzard9107-02-2011, 11:17 PMDrove it home! It's a monster!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk nocashrider07-03-2011, 03:13 AMniceeee CJMR2T07-03-2011, 08:45 AMDrove it home! It's a monster!
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
GOOD TO HERE!!!!!!!!!!! You must feel really good now. rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 05:44 PMi do feel good! super paranoid about timing though
my timing light set to 10* will go to zero on the timing belt.
but if i set the gun to zero, it pulls the mark further back behind the zero, not toward 10*... i feel like something is wrong there...
also have a code 31
it runs well though still.
better than before, except low end power seems a little more lacking.
and sometimes at idle itll miss a couple times at random rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 06:18 PMas per
Check the voltage at the PIM terminal at the ECU or the center wire on the MAP sensor (blue with black tracer) with the sensor hooked up.. With the Key on but engine off, the voltage should be somewhere right around 2.5volts +/- .2volts. Its best to check it at both spots, the sensor and the PIM terminal at the ECU to make sure they are pretty much the same to eliminate a wire problem.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again. With the engine idling, the voltage should be down around 1.5v give or take a few tenths of a volt.
If the voltage is not where it should be, unplug the sensor and check the voltage between the outer 2 teminals with the Key on and engine off. It should be between around 5v +/-.5v
If you have the 5v but the other reading are off from described above, then the sensor is bad.
i got 2.29 on PIM at the ecu and at the sensor with key on engine off
i got .98-1.02 for idling at 20-22"
and 4.97 volts between the 2 outer wires with the key on and engine off
any ideas? Foygroup07-03-2011, 06:50 PMYou keep saying add water and take it home. Tell me you added coolant too.
Did you also check that all your grounds are connected and in good condition? I just had that problem, but it's all good now.
Glad to see it's on the road... rocklizzard9107-03-2011, 08:20 PMi need to flush it before i add coolant
its just distilled right now.
i will change before summer though
no worries
and i will check grounds. maybe thats all it is CJMR2T07-03-2011, 10:40 PMi do feel good! super paranoid about timing though
my timing light set to 10* will go to zero on the timing belt.
but if i set the gun to zero, it pulls the mark further back behind the zero, not toward 10*... i feel like something is wrong there...
also have a code 31
it runs well though still.
better than before, except low end power seems a little more lacking.
and sometimes at idle itll miss a couple times at random
Was the engine at full operating temp when you set / checked it? This is important cause the ECU runs more advance during warmup then slowly tapers it back as temp increases....
I set the dial to 0* and adjust timing to 10*. Again, full operating temp is critical (drive it around for about 5-10min's is best so that its definitly up to temp and the entire cooling system is stabilized). Also, dont forget to jump TE1 and E1... This is very important too.
As for the 31, clear the codes and see if it comes back.... Your voltage's in the other post seem normal but have to ask though, where did you check the voltages, at the sensor? Check them at the ECU and see if they are the same. A problem with the PIM signal wire would cause the voltages to check fine at the Sensor, but not fine at the ECU if its an Open Circuit or Short to Ground fault in the PIM wire. CJMR2T07-03-2011, 10:48 PMi need to flush it before i add coolant
its just distilled right now.
i will change before summer though
no worries
and i will check grounds. maybe thats all it is
Coolant isn't really Coolant... In all actuality, it hinders cooling ability as it sheds heat slower then water. For "Summer", you want it there only for the anti-corrosion properties and lubricant for the waterpump and you want to run the least amount possible. Winter time is when its really important, especially if you live in a freezing climate like you do (currently ;) ;) ) since its real correct name and purpose is Anti-Freeze.
Definitly check all your grounds (especially the ECU ground group that attaches to the underside of the Intake Manifold), however, I dont think this is going to be your problem. 328FTW07-03-2011, 11:54 PMYou can buy anti corrosive on it's own and it's cheaper than antifreeze plus it's takes less to mix into the system. Normally 1 litre for $10 will do you fine, it's in the antifreeze isle normally just in smaller bottles. rocklizzard9107-04-2011, 01:58 AMi checked voltages at the sensor and at the ecu IIRC.
it MAY be a grounding issue. im not sure if i scratched paint off the manifold for the main engine harness ground. and theres paint between the manifold and the head i think. so i may not be grounding well. the miss is kind of scaring me. runs well. but itll have an occasional miss. sometimes more in a row than others. ill get video tomorrow.
as for timing, it was set cold IIRC. ill re check when warm tomorrow.
and yes i jumpered the diagnostics box
and i call anti-freeze coolant all the time. just what we called it at jiffy lube when i worked there as a young lad. i did know water sheds heat faster, which is why in the summer im ok with just water. but that anti-corrosive stuff sounds like a good idea rocklizzard9107-06-2011, 01:05 AMcodes cleared
went for a drive and they havent returned so far!
and i forgot to listen for the miss at idle. theres still an occasional miss while in vacuum just cruising, but it seems to be less often.
new cap and plugs
orilley got me the wrong rotor, but the old rotor was only a couple hundred miles old anyway.
plug wires SHOULD be good. they are only a couple hundred miles old too.
any other things to check?
i re grounded all my grounds. sanded paint on all of them.
i have the one from the chassis to the trans, and a ground from the chassis to the intake manifold (where the ecu ground are) so it should be good right? 328FTW07-06-2011, 01:29 AMYour injectors and stuff are good right? Electrical cleaner on the dizzy connector might help if there is a little corrosion. Did you check the injector grounds? Bunch of brown wires I believe with a eye on them, had issues there before. rocklizzard9107-06-2011, 01:52 AMi can check the dizzy connector. and the injector grounds are on the intake manifold right?
i think the injectors are good. it runs good 98% of the time. just has an occasional stumble and a random miss at idle sometimes. but ill double check tomorrow. i may just be all paranoid rocklizzard9107-11-2011, 01:21 AMim getting mad!
i had boost creep issues with my open downpipe (running stock WG so it SHOULD be 8-10 psi correct?) it was staying around 8psi til i got higher in the rpm, and it would spike. sometimes to 17. never over though. not once did i hit fuel cut.
i just put on the midpipe and MADE that guy fit :P now its much quieter and i figured boost would stop creeping.
well it still creeps! 8psi til it gets higher in the RPM band and it spikes to 12-17
i have the port off the compressor to the wastegate and the other side is plugged. tomorrow ill try a new plug. and maybe try the boost pressure signal off the hotpipe. if not i have to try my ct26 wastegate.
grrrrr
anything else at all it could be?
when i manually check the WG with a bike pump it will open the gate all the way. verified by removing the downpipe. pumping open the wastegate. and marking its spot on the actuator arm and then installing the downpipe and making sure it opens enough... it does.... what gives?!
idk what else it could be! CJMR2T07-11-2011, 03:45 PMCory, some creep is normal once a DP is installed vs. the stock cat and pipe. When OEM's design a turbo system, they often rely partly on exhaust system pressure post turbine to somewhat control boost. Remember, a turbines speed is dependant on the velocity of the gases as the cross it. If you change the pressure on either side of the turbine, you change the ultimate speed it can reach cause velocity is a product of pressure and pressure differential in a flowing fluid (yes, air or exhaust in this case are fluids).
By changing the exhaust and DP, you effectively increase the pressure differential across the turbine thus the velocity is higher (simple physics) and therefore the turbine spins faster. The wastegate(s) can only flow (divert) so much exhaust before they reach their flow limit. In most causes, the internal wastegate is purposely sized too small to allow faster boost rise (spool) which brings us back to relying partly on exhaust system pressure to help control peak boost...
If OEM's were to reverse this (meaning free'r flowing exhaust and larger wastegate), it would go against the idea of how OEM's feel a turbo charged car should run. Their idea is for a stronger low and mid range in most cases which means faster spool instead of more top end power. Also, they design for power delivery to be smooth as possible so they try to design less lag so you don't get that sudden surge that tends to occur with a laggy setup. rocklizzard9107-11-2011, 04:29 PMYes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk CJMR2T07-11-2011, 06:38 PMYes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Moving the signal location will only worsen the situation if anything. It definitely won't make it better.
Yes, creep to 17 does seam a bit high, but your also only running the DP and B-pipe. With that and the rest of the exhaust installed, I've seen creep to about 13 or so, so lost the rear of the exhaust leaving only the DP and B-pipe and its possible to get another couple psi.
The next thing is to question if the gauge is accurate too. It's quite possible that your gauge might be off by 1or2 psi too.
Where are you taking the gauge signal from by the way? rocklizzard9107-12-2011, 02:24 AMhow will it worsen it? i was thinking maybe the compressor port is clogged?
i currently am running the compressor port straight to the WG and the second port (supposed to go to the tvsv) is capped
i wanted to try moving the signal to the hotpipe. i know that one flows well
im currently running a full exhaust now. not much seemed to change other than it spikes to 17 less. now its 12-16ish
i have the ems powered gauge. it show 20" at idle 25" on decel and its properly calibrated so the car off = zero
i guess i could double check with a manual gauge though.
boost gauge signal is off of the fuel pressure reg vac port with a t-fitting CJMR2T07-12-2011, 01:38 PMCory, the further the signal source is from the pressure source, the more latency there is. The greater the latency, the more time the turbo goes uncontrolled. After rethinking the whole thing, what I said about the location making a no difference or possible making it worse doesn't really apply to your problem cause your problem is "creep", not "spike". The location and latency think has to do with spike so I really shouldn't have posted that.
In your case, the change might help a little but only cause of the configuration. Here's why, there are 2 forms of pressure, static pressure and velocity pressure.... the compressor port is at a "right angle" to the flow velocity thus its reading "static pressure". The port on the hot pipe is almost parallel with the flow velocity, thus it would be seeing "velocity pressure". Velocity pressure is always higher then static pressure in a flowing body. Since the hot pipe port is seeing velocity pressure, the wastegate actuator would also be seeing velocity pressure (I.e., seeing a high pressure and therefore opening a bit more). So in you case of having a creep issue, it in theory could help. This again is in "theory". It might still not make any noticeable difference. The reason I say this is because the difference between static and velocity pressures are going to be relatively small so the change in actuator movement is going to be small too, thus it might not make enough difference in WG opening to change turbine speed that much. rocklizzard9107-13-2011, 12:01 AMah ok. so it looks like i should try it! i was going to today at work.... but i forgot my zipties for securing lines. so i chose not to. i did a random compression test today and got 145-150 on all cylinders
looking at other people on here it seems low...
but im only at 500 miles maybe itll break in more?
or is 150ish normal for .020 over bored gen3's?
i get my intercooler tomorrow! so i will try the new pressure signal tomorrow and if it still doesnt work im gonna swap in the ct26 wastegate i bought last winter CJMR2T07-13-2011, 09:26 AMYeah, that does seem a tad bit low but there are numbers of variables that can effect it. You really should be more concerned with even-ness between cylinders more the actual numbers unless the numbers are very low and you have problems that would cause you to suspect truly low compression. Foygroup07-13-2011, 09:33 AMGreat. I got that right when I spoke with Cory last night. A little low, but all close to even is more important.
Cory did you remember to keep the car at full throttle while you turned it over? 328FTW07-13-2011, 09:53 AMSpoon some oil in next time you compression test, if it shoots up to like 200 it's probably the rings. Also you should comp test motor hot, throttle open preferably with all the plugs out. rocklizzard9107-13-2011, 03:09 PMAlright cool. They were all VERY close.
I did one at a time so only one plug was out per test. floored it and cranked a couple times.
I doing think it has low comp it feels healthy and doesn't blow oil. Should i have removed there plus all at once?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk CJMR2T07-13-2011, 06:14 PMAlright cool. They were all VERY close.
I did one at a time so only one plug was out per test. floored it and cranked a couple times.
I doing think it has low comp it feels healthy and doesn't blow oil. Should i have removed there plus all at once?
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
Yes.......
Engine at operating temp.
All plugs removed (kind of debateable).
Throttle heald wideopen.
The plugs being removed allows the cranking speed increase a bit. This part becomes more important as the number of cylinders increase (I.e., a V8 is much more effected then a 4cyl is). Also as static compression ratio increases, this becomes more important too (I.e., 13:1CR is more effected then say a 8.5:1CR).
Back to when I said there are a ton of variables, Cranking speed is one of them. A weak battery, dragging starter, etc.... will reduce cranking speed and thus reduce the compression reading. Because of all the variable's, peak numbers shouldn't be looked at, but rather consistancy across all cylinders. Like I said before, unless you suspect low compression cause of a particular problem that your experiencing, dont worry much about the number, worry about differences from cylinder to cylinder. rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 12:32 AMah ok. it was warm (had driving home 30 miles about 30 min before i worked on it) not super warm though.
and i had all the plugs. maybe next time ill try with plugs out.
not overly worried. was just a random check.
news on the boost issue. i tapped into the hot pipe boost port. and same problem :/
its either something else, or the wastegate. im starting to bet on wastegate.
ill check timing yet again tomorrow.
but it still stays at 8-9 if im in lower rpm and then as rpm increaces, so does boost.
got my intercooler installed today and it hit 18.1 (using the beak boost button on my EMS gauge)
it had to have been for only a split second cause i didnt ever see past 17 on the gauge and no boost cut.
this weekend ill try my other wastegate. im oh so excited to do the swap with the motor in the car :/
on a side note, the intercooler is very nice! a little bit different of a boosting sound, and it feels like it builds boost faster, and the butt dyno says moar powa!! :P
it was a bitch and a half getting the pipes to match.
the hot pipe side went without a hitch.
the cold pipe.... dear god.
i ended up cutting the end off and joining it to my EMS powered oem hotpipe replacement. works for now it seems.
piping in the ebay kits definitely suck bigtime. arber021407-14-2011, 12:17 PMIs this the waste gate i sent you?
If this one is bad i will send you another one. Sorry if this one is bad.:( rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 02:56 PMno this is the one i got in the swap
the ct20b one
the one ill try this weekend is the one you sent me rocklizzard9107-14-2011, 09:56 PMi found a vac leak i had! the spot where the old tvsv vented to, i forgot to cap it! so i was drawing in air from there!
capped it today and removed the ac idle up valve
hopefully my slightly surging idle will go away
if i unplug the idle control valve nothing happens though... im idling at 1k and occasionally itll go to 900ish.
i thought it was supposed to be at 850 all the time? how do i lower it more?
i think ill swap out my wastegate tonight or tomorrow in hopes of normal boost levels :P eckoman_pdx07-15-2011, 01:49 PMim getting mad!
i had boost creep issues with my open downpipe (running stock WG so it SHOULD be 8-10 psi correct?) it was staying around 8psi til i got higher in the rpm, and it would spike. sometimes to 17. never over though. not once did i hit fuel cut.
i just put on the midpipe and MADE that guy fit :P now its much quieter and i figured boost would stop creeping.
well it still creeps! 8psi til it gets higher in the RPM band and it spikes to 12-17
i have the port off the compressor to the wastegate and the other side is plugged. tomorrow ill try a new plug. and maybe try the boost pressure signal off the hotpipe. if not i have to try my ct26 wastegate.
grrrrr
anything else at all it could be?
when i manually check the WG with a bike pump it will open the gate all the way. verified by removing the downpipe. pumping open the wastegate. and marking its spot on the actuator arm and then installing the downpipe and making sure it opens enough... it does.... what gives?!
idk what else it could be!
Yes, I understand SOME creep is expected. But its set to JUST the wg. No mbc, no tvsv. It's just a boost signal straight to one wg port and the other is capped.
I can't.imagine it'll creep from 8 all the way to 17psi :confused:
Trying a new pressure signal and cap today. Maybe one leaks
Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
news on the boost issue. i tapped into the hot pipe boost port. and same problem :/
its either something else, or the wastegate. im starting to bet on wastegate.
ill check timing yet again tomorrow.
but it still stays at 8-9 if im in lower rpm and then as rpm increaces, so does boost.
It very well could be the downpipe itself. The Motoria/SSAC/XS Power/Ebay Downpipes tend to have boost creep issues. The wastegate can hit the flange I think it is, or the inside of the downpipe, I forget which. At any rate, it causes the wastegate to get hung up and not fully open, which causes boost creek. I know some peope have grinded a bit off to solve the issue, but I honestly forget what they ground/did and where. You might want to do some research into this, as I know the boost creep due to the wastegate hitting the flange/downpipe and not opening fully can be an issue with the Motoria/Ebay downpipe. I know a few people I could call to figure it out so you'd know what to look for, but I honestly lack the time right now since I have to arrange my father's funeral do all obligations and financial/estate things related to his passing. You're best bet would be to look into that yourself, since I know it can be an issue with a Motoria DP. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 02:39 PMyes i did hear that, which is why i tested it to see if it hits the DP.
i pumped up the wg and waited to hear if it hit the dp, and even felt the dp to see if i could feel it hit. neither happened, so im not sure.
it still creeped before the downpipe
if it still does after a wastegate swap ill look more into the downpipe
again, sorry about your dad man :( dont even worry about researching stuff for me, youve got MUCH better things to be doing right now. SVX9207-15-2011, 03:41 PMDamn, still having boost creep?! I've got my own problems too, I think I'm boost creeping but can't see it yet due to lack of boost gauge
Even if the wastegate seems fine, in the past it seemed to be a common problem point and often resolved the issue. Is it possible the spring inside just can't hold?
Feel free to borrow my stuff if you want to test against as well, given we're both using the stock equipment. Like I said though, I think I'm creeping too based on how it pulls especially cold. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 04:20 PMyou need a boost gauge stat!
the spring shouldnt hold.
after 8 it should be all the way open and let it not shoot up like it is.
its certainly fun, but id much rather get it fixed and run more boost without the fear of overboosting CJMR2T07-15-2011, 05:25 PMyou need a boost gauge stat!
the spring shouldnt hold.
after 8 it should be all the way open and let it not shoot up like it is.
its certainly fun, but id much rather get it fixed and run more boost without the fear of overboosting
If it will hold 8psi in the low and mid rpm range, but creeps the upper rpm range, then 99% of the time the wastegate is functioning fine and the problem is its too small (can't flow enough exhaust volume).
This is a pretty common problem in the MKIII Supra turbo world too. They often have to port the WG port to keep from creeping above 5k rpm if they have a decent amount of other work done.
Going back to what Echoman pointed out, this is a good possibility too. I totally forgot about this little common problem.... my guess is that either its not fully opening cause of the common interference problem or its that the ports are too small and just can't flow enough. rocklizzard9107-15-2011, 07:49 PMcould i get my WG ported?
to help regulate better eckoman_pdx07-16-2011, 02:20 AMyes i did hear that, which is why i tested it to see if it hits the DP.
i pumped up the wg and waited to hear if it hit the dp, and even felt the dp to see if i could feel it hit. neither happened, so im not sure.
it still creeped before the downpipe
if it still does after a wastegate swap ill look more into the downpipe
again, sorry about your dad man :( dont even worry about researching stuff for me, youve got MUCH better things to be doing right now.
Thanks. On a side note, cemetery and funeral home shopping sucks :(
Damn, still having boost creep?! I've got my own problems too, I think I'm boost creeping but can't see it yet due to lack of boost gauge
Even if the wastegate seems fine, in the past it seemed to be a common problem point and often resolved the issue. Is it possible the spring inside just can't hold?
Feel free to borrow my stuff if you want to test against as well, given we're both using the stock equipment. Like I said though, I think I'm creeping too based on how it pulls especially cold.
Seriously, get a boost gauge ASAP. Heck, even a cheap mechanical gauge is better than nothing. If you are on a budget, you can get an autometer mechanical for well under $100. Is it the best? No, but it's better than nothing.
could i get my WG ported?
to help regulate better
Yes, you can have the wastegate ported. It will allow more airflow. I still suspect the DP has something to do with it though. rocklizzard9107-16-2011, 04:51 AMThanks. On a side note, cemetery and funeral home shopping sucks :(
Seriously, get a boost gauge ASAP. Heck, even a cheap mechanical gauge is better than nothing. If you are on a budget, you can get an autometer mechanical for well under $100. Is it the best? No, but it's better than nothing.
Yes, you can have the wastegate ported. It will allow more airflow. I still suspect the DP has something to do with it though.
im sure it sucks more than anything!
i cant imagine :/
i told him the same. a cheapo autozone one and just set it on the dash temporarily
ah cool. i may look into that.
i dont think its the downpipe. i gave the WG a good 20+ psi with a bike pump pretty quickly and the WG opened just as far with the DP on, as when it was off (marked the actuator rod)
the WG didnt seem to like to hold pressure though. like its leaking
maybe a hole in the diaphragm? eckoman_pdx07-16-2011, 01:52 PMim sure it sucks more than anything!
i cant imagine :/
i told him the same. a cheapo autozone one and just set it on the dash temporarily
ah cool. i may look into that.
i dont think its the downpipe. i gave the WG a good 20+ psi with a bike pump pretty quickly and the WG opened just as far with the DP on, as when it was off (marked the actuator rod)
the WG didnt seem to like to hold pressure though. like its leaking
maybe a hole in the diaphragm?
Is it the same wastegate from when you thought you had issues earlier in the year? rocklizzard9107-16-2011, 09:03 PMyes eckoman_pdx07-17-2011, 02:07 AMyes
Hmm, wouldn't hurt to swap it then I guess. rocklizzard9107-17-2011, 04:32 AMyes i think i will later today Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.
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2026-03-02 18:44:56
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2026-03-02 11:03:04
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2026-03-02 19:34:51
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2026-03-02 19:36:40
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2026-03-02 13:59:57
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2026-03-02 14:03:34
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