View Full Version : Bent Rear Contol Arm?
Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 05:14 AMOk, so the other day i let my friend drive my car (he has never drivin an MK1 before) so before i know it he lost control slid out, and smashed my rear Right side drive wheel on the curb:omg: . There is no body damage what so ever, but now the wheel looks like its turning to the right; and when i drive i cant keep the car going streight, it doesnt turn right, almost like driving on ice. Its my only car, so i need to fix this problem IMMEDIATELY. so can anyone tell me what could be wrong and WHAT i need to fix it? Tyler H05-26-2006, 09:36 AMHonestly, given the time-sensitive nature of your problem, I would find a donor car and get the entire rear subframe, suspension and spindles. Buy new balljoints and you're good to go.
With "parts cars" going for $2-500, you should be able to score the rear subframe/suspension for $100-200. Its not a hard repair, and could be completed in an hour or so with a helper. tgidavid05-26-2006, 10:20 AMYou need to replace the control arm brace, that's if you don't see any of the rods bent. Make sure you buy the right year model and the 87+ and 85-86 have different brace. Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 10:49 AMdoes anyone know where i can buy these things? I have looked around here, and no parts cars. the control arm i can buy off ebay, but im looking for the whole set, with all the rods, or just the rods. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP:shocked: Tyler H05-26-2006, 10:52 AMYou just aren't looking hard enough. Get off the internet and get back out there. ;) Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 10:58 AMdude, i called 12 wrecking yards, 4 salvage yards and searched the classified in 3 different cities with no results tgidavid05-26-2006, 11:05 AMWhat year is your car and what side do you need?
Im heading to the yard tomorrow morning and I think I saw 2 mr2's there. I can take a look for you. Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 11:12 AMIts the Right (passanger) side. Im looking for the WHOLE set up (control arm, rods...ext...ext..) I would pay you man to buy and ship cuz i need that stuff YESTERDAY Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 11:25 AMIs it ok if these parts come off an 89? tgidavid05-26-2006, 12:08 PMMR2s in my area are slim in the choice department. If your car is after 1987 then I will try to get close to the year you want. If you car is 85-86, I would do you an injustice sending you 87+ parts. The suspension geometry and mounting points are different. Tyler H05-26-2006, 01:38 PMYou need to go cruise through the barrio and just look. Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 04:21 PMI have come to the conclusion that im just going to part out the car. So if anyone needs anything from my 87' T-top just let me know. tgidavid05-26-2006, 05:03 PMCmon man, stick it out. I hate to see another mr2 in the yard. They are getting more rare as is. The lesson learned, never let your friend drive your car. I learn that lesson early on. Mojomonkey05-26-2006, 05:12 PMI cant afford to stick it out. Its not going to a yard, if someone wants it they take the whole car. I was thinking about selling it anyways, so this just pushes me to do it. Mojomonkey05-27-2006, 01:11 AMOk, i have SERIOUSLY thought about this, and im going to fix my car. I Found a wreck yard that has the parts (control arm, Ball joints, and this THING i can figure out what its called) so im going to try and bargen him down, and try and fix it on my own. How hard would it be to fix? (asside having it properly aligned at a shop) tgidavid05-27-2006, 11:51 AMI guess I don't have to look for parts for ya anymore. The rear suspension is really easy. 4 bolts for the carriage and 1 bolt for each end of the suspension piece. Make sure you use a lot of wd-40 or liquid wrench. Those bolts get seized often. Mojomonkey05-27-2006, 12:47 PMIf you can find them for a decent price i'll take them from you man (the guy i know wants WAY to much money for them). So let me know what ya find. Raptor13x05-27-2006, 01:54 PMwww.car-part.com has a huge network of junkyards and what parts they have available. Mojomonkey05-27-2006, 06:52 PMYeah, thanks for all the help. If anyone can find ANYTHING for me, let me know im willing to buy. I just want my car back in the game. tgidavid05-30-2006, 01:40 PMChecked 2 yards and no mr2s were there. I'll try again on thursday when new shipments get in. Mojomonkey05-30-2006, 06:58 PMThanks man, i really do appreciate all the help. Im going to look into the tools needed for the work. Locofrancais MR2Guru05-30-2006, 09:18 PMI have all the parts you need to fix it! I have like three and four of them. If you tell me all the parts you need I can work you up a price and I promise it will be in your range and I will get you all the right parts. Check out our site it has our shop number on it give me a call and we will fix you up!! SilverMR206-06-2006, 10:46 PMI can tell you that you'll need a 17mm wrench for ball joint and bolt holding control arm as well as lateral arm in to the chassis. You'll also need a 7/8 deep socket or wrench "for the lateral bar" the bolt that goes through the lower control arm. That should do it.. Oh and a hammer to separate the ball joint. Remember to hit the side of the balljoint where it goes through the control arm not the threads unless replacing ball joint too.
I love toyota's you need about four things to get one apart. 10mm 12mm 17mm and what ever size that big nut on the rear arm is. I used 7/8 not sure what that is in metric. and a hammer. Mojomonkey06-06-2006, 10:47 PMOk, so im picking up the parts tomorrow. But i started my car today (after it had sat for about a week and a half) and it smoked, first blue, then this almost dirt looking color. Then it was smoking from the exhaust manifold. Could this have just been stuff that was sitting in the engine for the week or so with no movement then finally burning itself off? What else could this be a sneek preview of? SilverMR206-06-2006, 10:49 PMOh if you don't care about the boot on the ball joint a pickle fork should get it apart. I had this whole thing apart replacing bushing last weekend neighbor think i am crazy had the car on stands and all the suspension laying in the yard going at it with torches and hammers and screwdrivers. Total pain but well worth it total difference in the handling of the car. Hardly any slop like there was before. SilverMR206-06-2006, 10:54 PMhow many miles on the motor if around 170K you could be looking at valve seals going bad or worse cylinders going down in pressure allowing oil to bypass the rings. Since it was blue on start up that means the oil settled in the cylinder meaning it cam from up top the brown could just have been some carbon the was blown out after all the oil burned loss the oil could have broken down the carbon deposits in your motor and after it warmed up they broke loose and where forced through the exhaust. As far as the smoke for the manifold that could be caused by stuff settling on the manifold and buring off. check the valve cover on the back side to see if it is leaking that would allow oil to settle on the manifold. Mojomonkey06-07-2006, 02:21 AMNooope the car JUST Hit 150k when i slammed into the curb. Strange i think, anyways yeah it still runs FINE, it was just everything having settled for a week and a half with absolutly NO startup. Now i just have to get those parts SilverMR206-07-2006, 06:05 AMyou still could be looking at what i mentioned above due to the mileage. Mojomonkey06-07-2006, 10:26 AMwell i'll drive it till it dies, then swap in the GZE motor or maybe the 3s-gte when i have more money. SilverMR206-07-2006, 04:55 PMsounds like what i am doing except mine died before the cash was avalible so a $400 dollar rebuild was done by me in the driveway without removing the block or crank from the car!! Runs great now Mojomonkey06-07-2006, 06:52 PMNice, I have the parts now. All i have to do is take off the junk and install the new stuff. Any idea of how long this will take? Im pretty good with my mechanics, but you never know when your going to run-a-ground on somethin SilverMR206-08-2006, 04:53 PMtook me about an hour to take off the whole thing complete minus the axle shaft. like i said 2 17mm bolts and on 7/8 or whatever it is in metric you'll want to take that off first to use the front bolt to keep the arm from rotating. then take off both 17mm bolts and the 17mm castle nut to remove the two arms. If you are replacing the hub as well its two 17mm bolts holding it to the strut. and you don't have to pull the ball joint. Mojomonkey06-08-2006, 07:32 PMTHANK GOD, i finaly got it fixed. It took me about 1hr and a half to do everything. It really wasnt that difficult at all. Just not something i would want to do again (slamming into the curb as well). Thanks for everything guys it really did help. SilverMR206-16-2006, 05:00 PMthats what we are here for.. Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.
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