View Full Version : Detailing your MR2 Anybody try this stuff yet?
MSAGRO02-14-2011, 12:27 PMBought this yesterday. Quite happy with the results:
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/MSAGRO_2007/P1030699.jpg
I know, I know, Mequires, Mothers... ect is superior.
I used this stuff and came away quite impressed. Sprays on as a clear liquid, microfiber it around, flip microfiber towel and polish dry.
Stuff even works on windshields as a superior "Rain-X". It took away fine whorl marks on the clear and even removed the 'unbalanced' look of shine vs dullness of the previous wax applied.
Has a great shine and on epinion.com they liked it too.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/MSAGRO_2007/P1030700.jpg
The reflection on the headlight is my carport bulb 10ft up.
Anyone else try this stuff? RePete02-14-2011, 04:31 PMThat looks pretty good, I might try it. Normally, I'd tell you to run away from all Turtle Wax products but I understand they got rid of the old stodgy management base at the company and have new thinkers installed. They might come up in the world yet. MSAGRO02-14-2011, 06:32 PMThat looks pretty good, I might try it. Normally, I'd tell you to run away from all Turtle Wax products but I understand they got rid of the old stodgy management base at the company and have new thinkers installed. They might come up in the world yet.
Oddest thing about this product is that it's so easy to apply.
Just spray and wipe like a detailer. But I would catagorize this as the best detailer money can buy, or the easiest way to wax your car.
Either way it's impressive. Just got back from a drive in heavy rain and the beads on the car is a full inch in diameter, I have never seen them so large.
The first nice day here in Portland, Oregon (I figger July 5th), I'm gonna do the whole car.. literally the whole car;paint rubber, glass, t-tops wheels and tires and see what it looks like. Bmer8902-18-2011, 03:53 PMI've heard it's a decent OTC spray wax. I know some guys who use it on their trim. I personally steer clear from Megs and Mothers, and most Turtle Wax stuff lol. Ice is good though, looks great on your white. eckoman_pdx02-18-2011, 04:14 PMI've known guys who used it as a quick way to shine up cars @ the car shows. They like it since it's not suppose to leave that white "waxy" residue as you noticed. As for the swirl marks, it's basically using polishes and fillers to "fill in" the small scratches and swirls, just as a clear wax does (except it's in a spray bottle). Like a cleaner wax, they'll eventually come back. Then you apply more, and it "fills" it and they go away for a bit.
Your main difference between this and a traditional cleaner wax is: this leaves no white residue, this is 100% synthetic, this is in a spray bottle. Most cleaner waxes are cut with at least a small percentage of real wax (though they also contain tons of polishes and fillers). Silicon is one the non-body shop safe products use to really get the shine. This product seems like a cross between a cleaner wax, a quick spray wax and a spray detailer.
If you truly want to remove the swirls and scratches, you need to use a rotary buffer and use a cutting compound (and then hit it with the rotary and polish it). A rotary is the only way to truly remove the imperfections. Some companies do make a rotary safe cleaner wax, which does light cutting, light polishing and then a wax coat. These products aren't as good as a 2 or 3 step process with a rotary, but they will remove some of the imperfections while hiding what they don't (what you'd use is really based on the individual condition of each car). If you don't know how to use a rotary, hire a professional...or use products like this or traditional apply by hand cleaner waxes often since they "hide" the imperfections for the time being. Bmer8902-19-2011, 02:22 AMI agree with ecoman. But don't go out and buy yourself a rotary and have a go, get yourself a much saver DA polisher. Those don't make the paint as hot and also lessen the chance of burning through the paint. Rotaries are for those who know what they're doing :P Or just get some decent glaze that is really made for filling evidence of terrible washing habits ;) eckoman_pdx02-19-2011, 05:32 AMI agree with ecoman. But don't go out and buy yourself a rotary and have a go, get yourself a much saver DA polisher. Those don't make the paint as hot and also lessen the chance of burning through the paint. Rotaries are for those who know what they're doing :P Or just get some decent glaze that is really made for filling evidence of terrible washing habits ;)
Yeah, DON'T use a rotary unless you know how or you'll ruin the paint. I used to detail, so I know how to use a rotary very well (it's an extremely useful skill to have). If you know how to use a rotary, nothing beats it. You can remove darn near any paint imperfection with it. If you don't know what you are doing, you'll do more damage than good (so pay someone who knows how to use one).
If that's not an option, a DA Polisher works to shine the car up and hide scratches. I say hide, since a DA Polisher can not remove imperfections (which a rotary does do). A DA Polisher rounds the edges of the scratches and swirls, with helps keep the light from refracting and showing them. Not as good as a rotary (since they are still there), but much better than by hand. Also, you won't screw up paint with a DA Polisher. If you don't know how to use a rotary, you will screw up paint. 328FTW02-19-2011, 06:24 AMI love my big 1300 watt rotary. I use a 2 stage polish designed for boats and marine mostly but works well on car paint to. Some commercial product and you have to wear gloves and breathing gear while using it or you start to feel really sick once you start putting them together. eckoman_pdx02-19-2011, 06:47 AMI love my big 1300 watt rotary. I use a 2 stage polish designed for boats and marine mostly but works well on car paint to. Some commercial product and you have to wear gloves and breathing gear while using it or you start to feel really sick once you start putting them together.
Yeah, I use a heavy duty Makita Rotary buffer, and have a shelf full of various rotary cutting, polishing, dual action compounds and polishing glazes (a good deal of them are "body shop safe"). I love the thing. I've been using it for a decade and it's still going strong. 328FTW02-19-2011, 07:17 AMI was taught how to use it by an old car painter that used to live across the road from me. Watch for the lead, throwing it on your shoulder when leaning over the car to prevent cord scratches, the angle you hold it at, how much flex a good pad should have and what compounds to use. It makes buffing out a car a breeze, just gotta be careful cause they bite unlike slower random orbitals and such. eckoman_pdx02-19-2011, 07:30 AMI was taught how to use it by an old car painter that used to live across the road from me. Watch for the lead, throwing it on your shoulder when leaning over the car to prevent cord scratches, the angle you hold it at, how much flex a good pad should have and what compounds to use. It makes buffing out a car a breeze, just gotta be careful cause they bite unlike slower random orbitals and such.
Yeah, I've been using my Makita for a decade. It's one of the pieces of equipment I kept when I stopped detailing awhile ago. When I used to detail, we detailed a lot of high end cars like Porsche, Corvettes, Ferrari and BMW. Quite a few body shops sublet contracted the buffing duties on high end cars to us also, since we are much better than their guys with a rotary. Rotaries are not for a novice. Like I said, someone who doesn't know how to use one will screw the paint up. There are tons of variables. Pad type, pad material, compound type, pad angle, pad pressure, pad speed, and more. If you know what you are doing, nothing beats a rotary. There's a pad type and compound/polish/wax for every job.
DA Polishers are a good compromise for a hobbyist who has no clue how to use a rotary, but wants something better than by hand/random orbital. The average person won't screw up a car with a DA Polisher (though the results aren't like a rotary). It's a good compromise for a hobbyist who can't use a rotary. Bmer8902-19-2011, 02:30 PMIt's good to see other members here who know a thing or two about detailing! I use my DA for 1 stage polishes, it's very economical that way. Rotaries are beasts and really get the paint blemish free! But for the right price ;) MSAGRO02-19-2011, 07:20 PMJust today I used this Turtlewax ICE on my daughters car just before we put new wheels and tires on this Corolla:
Before:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee117/MSAGROMSA/P1030716.jpg
2 Hours later:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee117/MSAGROMSA/P1030729.jpg
Took just about 10 minutes to do the whole car and I must of used just about 15% of the bottle. This stuff goes a long way. eckoman_pdx02-20-2011, 05:30 AMJust today I used this Turtlewax ICE on my daughters car just before we put new wheels and tires on this Corolla:
Before:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee117/MSAGROMSA/P1030716.jpg
2 Hours later:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee117/MSAGROMSA/P1030729.jpg
Took just about 10 minutes to do the whole car and I must of used just about 15% of the bottle. This stuff goes a long way.
You should have taken pictures after washing it but before applying any product also. You should really look into a DA Polisher if you don't have one. You'd be happy with the results. It's a good tool for a hobbyist. Porter-Cable makes a pretty good DA Polisher. It's not something you can screw up the paint with. They can't do near as much as a rotary, but you won't screw your paint up with one. Don't try a rotary if you are not familiar with how to use one. You'll screw up the paint. A rotary in the hands of a novice is a bad thing ;) MSAGRO02-20-2011, 12:42 PMYeah, maybe. But the effect wouldn't be as shocking.
I may consider a buffer, but for the time being, elbow grease is OK for me. eckoman_pdx02-20-2011, 04:24 PMYeah, maybe. But the effect wouldn't be as shocking.
I may consider a buffer, but for the time being, elbow grease is OK for me.
The affect may not seem as shocking, but you're comparing a car with dirt on it to a fresh washed and wax car. A lot of the fresh look came from the washing. If you want to truly see what difference the product makes, you need to wash the car so it's clean and then do a before and after product application. Still, it looks good after the wash and wax ;)
As for a DA Polisher, trust me. Once you use one you'll never go back. You'll get better results, and faster results. I don't have a DA since I'm damn good with a rotary, but a DA would be a perfect fit for you. MSAGRO02-20-2011, 05:49 PMYour'e right ecko, not a good comparison... still a notable improvement tho. My daughter never really takes care of her cars. Hopefully, for a starting point on having a clean car, she may come around. 328FTW02-20-2011, 06:05 PMYour'e right ecko, not a good comparison... still a notable improvement tho. My daughter never really takes care of her cars. Hopefully, for a starting point on having a clean car, she may come around.
Lol she won't. I had an immaculate 93 ford laser from my dead grandmother. 20,000 miles. I thrashed on it but always maintained and cleaned it well. My sister since she got it has bent a rim, dented every panel and never washed it.
It WAS one of the tidiest cars I've ever owned but it now smells like cigarettes and has playboy seat covers. Worth about 4k when I had it due to stupid low km's and service record. Worth about $900 now *facepalm* LeePeyton02-21-2011, 10:33 AMSome people will destroy a car. Ladies get real mad when you tell them it's a no smoking car... LOL
As far as on topic, it may not be the right way but I might give that spray a shot. :P Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.
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