frame damage... [Archive] - Toyota MR2 Message Board

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phillyzj11-27-2010, 10:34 PMWell i just bought a 92 turbo MR2 that had been crashed. I am still pretty leery on the "whole" story, but the person i bought it from says the damage from his accident wasn't major and i believe him. I think this thing was crashed pretty hard before he bought it, but i really can't tell. Here are some pics, what do you think?:

you can tell by the shape of the metal next to the headlight:

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040362.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040363.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040367.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040369.jpg
if you look you can see they are both bowed left.

more nastiness:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040370.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040371.jpg

I am debating what to do now. I have both a straight 91 NA and this 92 Turbo. I have enough straight body panels to put this guy on the road and at this point i am considering it. I know the suspension is off a little, the pass side front tire is pushed back about 1cm, i am hoping i can adjust that out with the trailing arm.

Anyone have any thoughts, think this could be fixed at a body shop?

I just hope i can get the body panels to look ok...frame damage sucks! RePete11-27-2010, 11:12 PMI don't see any major weld seams which would indicate severe damage. 'Course, that alone doesn't mean anything. A body shop can fix everything. But most body shops, like 80% or more, are full of shit and so is their work. Frame damage usually means major coinage.

I'm surprised by the amount of rust under there, guess that's the east coast for ya.

Don't mind me asking but why did you buy it? :confused: phillyzj11-27-2010, 11:51 PMI don't see any major weld seams which would indicate severe damage. 'Course, that alone doesn't mean anything. A body shop can fix everything. But most body shops, like 80% or more, are full of shit and so is their work. Frame damage usually means major coinage.

I'm surprised by the amount of rust under there, guess that's the east coast for ya.

Don't mind me asking but why did you buy it? :confused:

yep, this one's from New England, which is worse than the rest of the east coast.

When i bought it, i didn't think i'd be able to title it and i was going to swap everything to my 91 NA. Turns out I was able to get a title in MD and after seeing it, it's actually in pretty good shape other than the frame damage up front... 328FTW11-28-2010, 01:21 AMGet it to an alignment shop, see how bad it is. After than maybe chain it down and pump some hydraulics against a wall or support beam, at the old workshop I'd chain my racecar to the supporting I beam and use a portable jack and various wood/pipes to spread load and get the frame straight.

That is only if it's minor and rail only sightly off. If it's like 238 was and the rail is 2 inches shorter and about half a foot down and across from where it was then it's time for a new shell. But if the wheels pull into plave and the rail is still decent then you can try some panels and see if they line up and go at it. scottohno11-28-2010, 09:47 AMdo the swap... it just seems like a better idea. insurance will be cheaper, you wont have to mess around, and then you can part it out. so just swap engines and part this one out. phillyzj11-28-2010, 10:37 AMGet it to an alignment shop, see how bad it is. After than maybe chain it down and pump some hydraulics against a wall or support beam, at the old workshop I'd chain my racecar to the supporting I beam and use a portable jack and various wood/pipes to spread load and get the frame straight.

That is only if it's minor and rail only sightly off. If it's like 238 was and the rail is 2 inches shorter and about half a foot down and across from where it was then it's time for a new shell. But if the wheels pull into plave and the rail is still decent then you can try some panels and see if they line up and go at it.

Thanks, i do have a porta power i can try and use. Just need something to brace against. I threw on fenders and the hood and they seem to line up pretty decent really. I think the front mount of the trailing arm is bent slightly which is why the alignment is off. The frame doesn't seem to be terribly terribly off, just enough to make a difference. I will try and get the pass wheel back in place and aligned and see how it does. I don't want to dump much money into this thing if i'm not going to be happy with it. if i can get it driving right and looking ok i will probably just do that.


do the swap... it just seems like a better idea. insurance will be cheaper, you wont have to mess around, and then you can part it out. so just swap engines and part this one out.

I am thinking that will be what happens long term, i obviously couldn't sell it for much the way it is. The 91 that I have could use a some paint/body work so i would have some time to do that if i took it off the road.

Oh, insurance is $50 more a year for the turbo. not really a deciding factor. scottohno11-28-2010, 11:30 AMits $50 more per year in your pocket.

i would pull both off the road, swap engines, and call it a day phillyzj11-28-2010, 03:44 PMits $50 more per year in your pocket.

i would pull both off the road, swap engines, and call it a day

Yea, you're probably right, not gonna lie;)

i'll keep thinking about it. spare time is pretty slim at this point, i have way too many projects to work on, so the turbo car may sit til i can do the swap. scottohno11-28-2010, 04:38 PMugh well get one of your other hoopdee projects working so you can so the swap. phillyzj11-28-2010, 05:29 PMugh well get one of your other hoopdee projects working so you can so the swap.

one of them's my house, and yes it's a bit of a hoopdee right now :lol: scottohno11-28-2010, 05:39 PMwell if you were from a southern state i may not say this, but you cant drive your house. fix your car first :) phillyzj11-28-2010, 07:13 PMhaha, i will probably let the turbo sit for a few months. I only have 2500 miles on the NA since i bought it and replaced the clutch. scottohno11-28-2010, 10:52 PMyeah so good resale.

band-aid the turbo shell, install your NA engine into it, make it look okay, and sell it for more than its worth. ;) TomsMR211-29-2010, 01:42 AMtheres no reason to swap that. most mr2s on this board are more messed up than that :lol: if it has a clean title, you'd be insane not to slap some fenders on it and call it good. even a bent frame isnt that big of a deal on an mr2.

its a big deal when you have a bunch of non adjustable suspension points, but these cars can be twisted in half and still align and drive straight. phillyzj11-30-2010, 07:23 PMtheres no reason to swap that. most mr2s on this board are more messed up than that :lol: if it has a clean title, you'd be insane not to slap some fenders on it and call it good. even a bent frame isnt that big of a deal on an mr2.

its a big deal when you have a bunch of non adjustable suspension points, but these cars can be twisted in half and still align and drive straight.

Thanks for the advice. I think i have figured out what i want to do with these two cars. the 91 NA is on the road/inspected/etc. I think i'm going to pull the motor from the turbo some time this winter and clean it up, do the timing belt, HFH, etc. Then some time in the spring most likely swap it into the NA. Then ideally swap the NA motor into the 92 turbo with the frame damage and sell it or something.

This is what it looks like with straight fenders/headlight covers/bumper loosely attached:

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2005.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2004.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2003.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2002.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2001.jpg

not too bad IMO! don't ask me what's keyed int the hood, i have no idea...:confused: TomsMR211-30-2010, 08:46 PMid get a product like POR15 or a similar rust converter and make sure you touch every rusty/unpainted piece of metal by the bumper supports though. it'll save someone a ton of headache down the road.

besides that, looks straight! FC88MR211-30-2010, 09:43 PMWho is Abby? Must be popular to have her name on your car. phillyzj11-30-2010, 10:13 PMid get a product like POR15 or a similar rust converter and make sure you touch every rusty/unpainted piece of metal by the bumper supports though. it'll save someone a ton of headache down the road.

besides that, looks straight!

good call, i've got some rust converter here i'll go over it with. not as nice as POR15 but should give it some decent protection. Unfortunately one of the threaded parts inside the frame rail that the bumper support hooks into was ripped loose. I'm gonna have to weld it on there which will suck if anyone needs to take it off, possible but not easy to get in there to cut it with anything that won't destroy it.


Who is Abby? Must be popular to have her name on your car.

haha, you sure it's not Ahhy? :rofl: Foygroup11-30-2010, 10:40 PMDo you have a shop to go to for paint. I had my tranny done down the street on 40. But I get all my major painting done in Belair. We should meet up. Nice to see someone close by. 328FTW12-01-2010, 12:43 AMStraighten it if it needs any of that doing, do the rust (just did the boot of mine, took just a few minutes), bolt some panels on. Then either drive it a little bit and sell it to buy a gen 3 or whatever. My turbo has a kinked rear rail and welded on quarter panel, been fixed fairly well for the most part except for the pillar. Suspension was out so I messed around one day and it handles fine now. TomsMR212-01-2010, 01:29 AMid strongly suggest not welding anything on that was previously bolted. theres a million different repairs for blown out threaded holes, anything beats welding the parts together. weld in a sheet of 1/8th inch steel and tack weld a nut on if you need a threaded hole. phillyzj12-01-2010, 01:08 PMDo you have a shop to go to for paint. I had my tranny done down the street on 40. But I get all my major painting done in Belair. We should meet up. Nice to see someone close by.

I don't have a place yet. I have a guy at work willing to help me spray it if i do the prep work. I can rent a booth here for 55/day:Aberdeen Proving Ground MWR - Recreation - Automotive Crafts (http://www.apgmwr.com/recreation/auto.html) so i may do that. I'd really like to learn how to do more body work myself.


Straighten it if it needs any of that doing, do the rust (just did the boot of mine, took just a few minutes), bolt some panels on. Then either drive it a little bit and sell it to buy a gen 3 or whatever. My turbo has a kinked rear rail and welded on quarter panel, been fixed fairly well for the most part except for the pillar. Suspension was out so I messed around one day and it handles fine now.

Thanks for the recomendation, this one will get driven one way or another :)




id strongly suggest not welding anything on that was previously bolted. theres a million different repairs for blown out threaded holes, anything beats welding the parts together. weld in a sheet of 1/8th inch steel and tack weld a nut on if you need a threaded hole.


This is where the threaded part is ripped out, the top of the frame rail:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/phillyzj/MR2/P1040369.jpg

Think i should notch the top of the frame rail and weld in a piece of plate with a nut welded to it? not much harder than welding it on really, probably another good idea ;) phillyzj12-01-2010, 10:14 PMStraighten it if it needs any of that doing, do the rust (just did the boot of mine, took just a few minutes), bolt some panels on. Then either drive it a little bit and sell it to buy a gen 3 or whatever. My turbo has a kinked rear rail and welded on quarter panel, been fixed fairly well for the most part except for the pillar. Suspension was out so I messed around one day and it handles fine now.

After thinking about this a bit more. A Gen 3 swap would be my ideal swap. I guess i could fix this one up, get it driving straight and try and sell it. How much do you think i would need to discount the price given the damage up front? I would probably swap most of the standard Turbo optional items over to my NA, leather door panels, fog lights, power steering, front brakes, engine lid, etc. More decisions to make, i really need to put a spread sheet together and figure out what makes the most sense. Foygroup12-01-2010, 11:25 PMThat is what I did with my car. Big spread she for what I was gonna have to get vs my budget. cuespen12-02-2010, 01:48 AMYou Should see my Project MR2 i dunno if your gonna have to do the same things at mine?

http://mr2.zhutiblog.com/com/forums/check/Toyota-MR2-58426-vancouver-bc-my-mr2-project.html 328FTW12-02-2010, 02:26 AMHow much do you think i would need to discount the price given the damage up front?

Ignore it, fix it right and treat it as a good car. Don't get pedantic over it, it's in front of all the wheels and stuff and if the alignment says things aren't way out of whack then it's not effecting the drivability. You might have to give some things a slight push and maybe slot a couple holes but it's nothing major as long as your panel gaps are all good and you fix the rust and stuff.

People buy things with rust holes in the floor on the premise of "good straight body, never been pranged, she's a beauty" but my racecar after being rolled, t-boned and otherwise HORRIBLY abused pulled straight on an alignment machine and handled perfect, I've had cars so rusty the support between the suspension towers has collapsed, this isn't like that, a good car is a good car, what you have is very minor and doesn't compromise the car at all really. Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.